Patterned hat and scarf

Set with the «plait» pattern

Hat size — 55, palm circumference — 18 cm

You will need:
yarn (50% wool, 50% acrylic, 300 m / 100 g) — 600 g blue,
needles No. 5, double-point needles No. 4.

Uzor «plait»:
Row 1 — purl stitches.
Row 2 — 1 edge stitch, *slip the second stitch, insert the needle into the 3rd stitch behind the work, knit this stitch through the back loop, then, without removing the stitch from the left needle, knit the 2nd stitch through the back loop. Slip off from the left needle both knitted stitches at once. Repeat from * to the last two stitches, knit 1 knit stitch, then edge stitch.
Row 3 — 1 edge stitch, insert the needle into the 3rd stitch and knit it purl, then, without slipping the stitch from the needle, knit the 2nd stitch purl. Slip off from the needle both knitted stitches at once. Repeat from * to the last two stitches, knit 1 purl, then edge stitch. Alternate rows 2 and 3.

Insert the needle into the 3rd stitch and knit it purl, then, without removing the stitch from the needle, knit the 2nd stitch purl. Slip off from the needle both knitted stitches at once. Repeat from * to the last two stitches, knit 1 purl, then edge stitch. Alternate rows 2 and 3.

Attention! Knit the hat and scarf with the yarn held double.

Scarf

Cast on an odd number of stitches (in our example — 31 sts) and knit using the «plait» pattern to the desired scarf length. Ours is 150 cm long. Bind off all stitches.

Hat

Cast on 71 sts + 2 edge stitches and knit using the «plait» pattern. After 38 rows (or the required number of rows) halve the number of stitches. Knit 2–3 rows on all stitches and repeat the decrease. Knit another 2 rows on all stitches and pull tight with the yarn end.
With the same yarn end, seams the hat, weave in the end, and cut.

Mittens

On double-pointed needles, cast on 32 sts (8 sts on each needle) and knit in the round for 12 rounds in 1x1 rib. Then distribute stitches as follows: back of hand — 3 knit sts, 1 purl, 2 knit sts, 1 purl, 3 knit sts; palm side — stockinette (as shown), on 2 knit sts work a “cable”: in every 2nd row first the right stitch, then the left, without removing from the needle, — the 1st stitch, then slip off both knitted stitches.
After 20 rounds, on the back of the hand knit the first 8 stitches (for the right mitten; for the left — the last 8 stitches) in a contrasting thread. Continue knitting according to the pattern. When the mitten height reaches the fingertip, begin decreases. For this, the first 3 stitches on the 1st and 3rd needles are worked as: 1 knit stitch, slip one, knit the next and pass it over the slipped stitch. The last 3 stitches on the 2nd and 4th needles are worked as: 2 stitches knit together, 1 knit stitch. When 4 stitches remain, pull them tight with the working yarn, weave the end in from the wrong side.
Remove the contrasting thread, transfer the stitches to the needles, and additionally pick up 1 stitch on each side of the resulting hole = 20 stitches. Distribute the stitches on 3 needles and knit in stockinette until the base of the fingernail. Then divide the stitches into 2 parts and perform decreases: knit 2 stitches together at the beginning of each part. When 2 stitches remain, pull the yarn through and secure from the wrong side. Knit the second mitten symmetrically.

Tips

✓ Before starting work, knit a swatch at least 10×10 cm and calculate your gauge (the number of rows and the number of stitches in one row).
✓ Compare your numbers with the given instructions.
✓ If your swatch has more stitches than specified in the description, you should knit more loosely or use thinner yarn and smaller needles.
✓ If your swatch has fewer stitches, knit more loosely or use thicker needles and yarn.

CAST-ON OF STITCHES

1. Hold the hook with three fingers like a pen.

2. Slip the yarn over the index finger. Hook the yarn, rotate the hook counterclockwise. A loop forms on the hook.

3. Hook the working yarn and pull it through the loop that formed.

4. Tighten the first stitch. On the hook — a chain stitch.
   Repeat from step 3. You will obtain a chain of chain stitches.

Abbreviations

1.• — chain stitch

2.  — slip stitch

3. × — single crochet
4. 



— half double crochet

5. † — double crochet
6.  — back post double crochet
7.  — front post double crochet

8. — front post double crochet

9.  — puff stitch of 2 double crochets
10.



 — puff stitch of 3 double crochets

11. — skip 3 stitches, 5 front-post double crochets, 3 front-post double crochets behind the first group by the skipped stitches

12. — skip 5 stitches, 3 front-post double crochets with 5 double crochets, 5 front-post double crochets with 3 double crochets behind the first group by the skipped stitches

Note:
If the symbols join at the bottom, the stitches are worked into the same base stitch.
If the symbols join at the top, the stitches are worked together at the top with a common vertex.

RELIEF STITCHES

Relief stitches differ from ordinary stitches with yarn-overs by where the stitch is anchored. When working ordinary stitches, insert the hook under the top braid of the previous row. The fabric remains flat, non-relief. When working raised or recessed stitches, insert the hook under the leg of the stitch from the previous row from the front or back side.

Front post stitch (raised)

1. Make a yarn over, insert the hook under the previous row’s stitch post on the front side.

2. Crochet a double crochet. The new stitch is visible on the front side of the fabric.

(illustrations show inserting the hook under the leg of the stitch and the result on the front side)

Reverse (concave) double crochet

1. Make a yarn over, insert the hook under the double crochet of the previous row from the wrong side.

2. Crochet a double crochet. The new stitch appears on the wrong side of the fabric.

(the photo shows inserting the hook from the wrong side and the finished concave row)