Jacket Birch Leaves from DROPS 141

Materials: 

DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio 
850-950-1000-1100-1250-1350 g color number 4311, gray/burgundy. 

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLES (80 cm) SIZE 6 mm or size needed to achieve 16 sts x 19 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm. And 15 sts x 19 rows in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm. 
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLES (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm for ribbing. 

DROPS ANGULAR BUFFELHORN BUTTONS NO 537: 2 pieces 

GARMENT STITCH (knit back and forth on regular needles): 
knit all rows in knit stitches. 1 stripe = 2 rows knit. 

PATTERN: 
See charts A.1 A.7. The charts show all rows in the pattern as seen from the right side. Choose the chart for your size. 

DECREASE ADVICE (apply to the side main pieces): 
All decreases are done on the right side! 
Decrease as follows before marker: knit 2 stitches together knitwise. 
Decrease as follows after marker: Slip 1 stitch as knit, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one. 

KNITTING ADVICE (apply to the band): 
To avoid the band contracting on the front, knit short rows over the band in every row marked with an arrow in chart A.5/A.6 as follows: * Start from the right front (i.e. at the center of the front piece) in the row marked with an arrow in the chart and knit 1 knit row over the last 16-16-18-18-22-22 stitches (i.e., band – do not knit other stitches in the row), turn the piece, tighten the yarn and knit the remaining row, turn the piece and knit 1 row as before (garter stitch and in pattern) over all stitches, turn the piece, knit 1 knit row over the last 16-16-18-18-22-22 stitches (i.e., band on the left front – do not knit other stitches in the row), turn the piece, tighten the yarn and knit the remaining row.*, repeat from * * in every row marked with an arrow in the chart. 

BUTTONHOLES: 
Make buttonholes for 2 stitches on the right band as follows: knit the third and fourth stitches from the edge together knitwise and make 1 yarn over, knit until there are 5 stitches left on the band, knit the next 2 together and make 1 yarn over. 
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JACKET: 
Knit back and forth on circular needles from the center of the front piece. 
Cast on 239-251-269-305-335-347 stitches (including 16-16-18-18-22-22 stitches for the band on each side towards the center of the front piece) on circular needles size 5 mm with Nepal. 1 wrong side row from the wrong side. Knit the following row as follows from the right side: 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, * 3 knit, 3 purl *, repeat from * * a total of 3-3-4-4-5-5 times, 3 knit, knit according to chart A.1 (choose the chart for your size = 35-35-35-44-44-44 stitches), * 3 knit, 3 purl *, repeat from * * a total of 2-3-3-3-4-5 times, 3 knit, knit according to chart A.1 for sizes S + M + L (i.e., 35 stitches) and chart A.2 for sizes XL + XXL + XXXL (i.e., 44 stitches), * 3 knit, 3 purl *, repeat from * * a total of 3-3-4-4-5-5 times, 3 knit, knit according to chart A.1 (choose the chart for your size = 35-35-35-44-44-44 stitches), * 3 knit, 3 purl *, repeat from * * a total of 2-3-3-3-4-5 times, 3 knit, knit according to chart A.1 for sizes S + M + L (i.e., 35 stitches) and chart A.2 for sizes XL + XXL + XXXL (i.e., 44 stitches), * 3 knit, 3 purl *, repeat from * * a total of 3-3-4-4-5-5 times, 3 knit and 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH. Continue ribbing in this manner until the piece measures 5 cm in length. 
Switch to circular needles size 6 mm and knit the following row from the right side as follows: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, knit while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 8-7-9-12-12-10 stitches evenly over the next 21-21-27-27-33-33 stitches, knit the last row in A.3 over the stitches from A.1 (choose the chart for your size = 9-9-9-10-10-10 stitches decreased), knit while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 5-7-7-7-11-11 stitches evenly over the next 15-21-21-21-27-33 stitches, knit the last row in A.3 for sizes S + M + L over the stitches from A.1 (i.e., 9 stitches decreased) and knit the last row in A.4 for sizes XL + XXL + XXXL over the stitches from A.2 (i.e., 10 stitches decreased), knit while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 6-4-4-10-8-4 stitches evenly over the next 21-21-27-27-33-33 stitches, knit the last row in A.3 over the stitches from A.1 (choose the chart for your size = 9-9-9-10-10-10 stitches decreased), knit while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 5-7-7-7-11-11 stitches evenly over the next 15-21-21-21-27-33 stitches, knit the last row in A.3 for sizes S + M + L over the stitches from A.1 (i.e., 9 stitches decreased) and knit the last row in A.4 for sizes XL + XXL + XXXL over the stitches from A.2 (i.e., 10 stitches decreased), knit while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 8-7-9-12-12-10 stitches evenly over the next 21-21-27-27-33-33 stitches and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch = 171-183-197-217-241-261 stitches. 
Knit 1 row from the wrong side with knits over knits and purls over purls but knit the edge 16-16-18-18-22-22 stitches on each side (i.e., band) 
Then knit the pattern as follows, starting from the right side READ KNITTING ADVICE: 16-16-18-18-22-22 stitches for the band in garter stitch, 0-1-3-0-2-4 stitches in stockinette stitch, knit the pattern according to chart A.5 (choose the chart for your size = 26-26-26-34-34-34 stitches), knit stockinette over the next 10-14-14-14-16-22 stitches, knit A.5 for sizes S + M + L (i.e., 26 stitches) and A.6 for sizes XL + XXL + XXXL (i.e., 34 stitches), 0-1-3-0-2-4 stitches in stockinette stitch, knit according to chart A.7 (choose the chart for your size = 15-15-17-17-21-21 stitches), 0-1-3-0-2-4 stitches in stockinette stitch, knit A.5 (choose the chart for your size = 26-26-26-34-34-34 stitches), knit stockinette over the next 10-14-14-14-16-22 stitches, knit A.5 for sizes S + M + L (i.e., 26 stitches) and A.6 for sizes XL + XXL + XXXL (i.e., 34 stitches) and 0-1-3-0-2-4 stitches in stockinette stitch and 16-16-18-18-22-22 stitches for the band in garter stitch. 
Add 2 markers to the piece; 47-50-54-59-66-71 stitches on each side = 77-83-89-99-109-119 stitches between the markers on the back. Continue the pattern. MAINTAIN GAUGE! When the piece measures 10 cm in length, decrease 1 stitch from each side of both markers – READ DECREASE ADVICE (i.e., 4 stitches decreased) Repeat the decreases every 10-10-10-8-9-9 cm, 3-3-3-4-4-4 times after that = 155-167-181-197-221-241 stitches. When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm in length, close for 2 buttonholes on the right band, see explanation above! When the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm in length, close the first 15-15-17-17-21-21 stitches in the row, add 1 marker (indicating where to start knitting up for the collar), knit the remaining row. Turn the piece, close the first 15-15-17-17-21-21 stitches in the row, add 1 marker (this indicates where to finish knitting up for the collar), knit the remaining row = 125-137-147-163-179-199 stitches. Continue the pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm in length, close 2-4-4-4-6-8 stitches on each side for the armholes (i.e., 1-2-2-2-3-4 stitches from each side of both markers) = 67-71-77-85-93-101 stitches on the back and 27-29-31-35-37-41 stitches on the front. Finish each part separately. 

BACK: 
Continue the pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 75-78-81-84-87-90 cm in length, close the center 11-11-13-13-17-17 stitches for the neckline and finish each shoulder separately. Then close 1 stitch in the next row from the neckline = 27-29-31-35-37-41 stitches remaining on the needles. Continue until the piece measures 77-80-83-86-89-92 cm in length and close. 

RIGHT FRONT: 
Continue the pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 77-80-83-86-89-92 cm in length – adjust so that the same number of rows are knitted as on the back, close. 

LEFT FRONT: 
Knit as the right front. 

SLEEVE: 
Knit in the round. Cast on 42-42-42-48-48-48 stitches on double pointed needles size 5 mm with Nepal. 1 knit round, then knit ribbing (i.e., 3 knit/3 purl). When the ribbing measures 8 cm in length, switch to double pointed needles size 6 mm. 1 knit round while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 8-7-6-11-10-9 stitches evenly = 34-35-36-37-38-39 stitches. Then knit stockinette stitch. Add 1 marker at the beginning of the round. When the piece measures 10 cm in length, add one stitch on each side of the center marker at the armhole seam. Repeat the increases every 13-10-7?-6-5-4 cm 3-4-5-6-7-8 times after that = 42-45-48-51-54-57 stitches. When the piece measures 52-52-51-50-48-45 cm in length (the shorter measurement in larger sizes due to longer sleeve caps and broader shoulder widths), finish the piece back and forth on regular needles from the center at the armhole seam as follows: 
Sizes S + M + L + XL: Cast on 1 new stitch on each side (i.e., edge stitch for sewing) and knit until the piece measures 53-53-52-51 cm in length, bind off loosely. 
Sizes XXL + XXXL: Cast on 1 new stitch on each side (i.e., edge stitch for sewing) and knit until 2 rows remain before the piece measures 50-48 cm in length. Now bind off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows before closing all stitches. 

ASSEMBLY: 
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves inside 1 edge stitch (the part knitted back and forth at the top of the sleeve should fit to close for armholes). Sew on buttons. 

COLLAR: 
Knit up stitches from the right side (inside 1 edge stitch) on circular needles size 5 mm starting at the center of the front piece at the marker on the right front: Knit up approximately 38-46 stitches up the shoulder, then 16-22 stitches along the neckline, and 38-46 stitches down along the left front until the marker = 92-114 stitches. 1 knit row from the wrong side. Then 1 knit row from the right side while AT THE SAME TIME adding the number of stitches evenly 137-143-149-155-161-167. Then knit ribbing as follows (from the wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * 3 purl, 3 knit *, repeat from * * until there are 4 stitches remaining and finish with 3 purl and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (from the right side there are 3 knit stitches on each side inside the edge stitches). Continue ribbing in this manner until the collar measures approximately 5 cm in length. Now add one stitch in each of the center 12 purl sections, as shown from the right side (i.e., back neckline) = 149-155-161-167-173-179 stitches. Continue with knits over knits and purls over purls until the collar measures approximately 9-9-11-11-13-13 cm in length. Now knit as follows: Knit 1 row as before and slip the first 16 stitches onto an additional needle, turn the piece, knit the remaining row and slip the first 16 stitches onto another additional needle. Turn the piece, knit the remaining row and slip the first 15-15-15-18-18-18 stitches onto the first additional needle, turn the piece, knit the remaining row and slip the first 15-15-15-18-18-18 stitches onto the second additional needle. Continue in this manner slipping the first 15-15-15-18-18-18 stitches onto additional needles on each side until there are 61-61-61-70-70-70 stitches total on the additional needles on each side. Then slip the stitches from the additional needles back onto the needle and knit 1 row as before over all 149-155-161-167-173-179 stitches – NOTE: To avoid holes at each transition where the piece was turned, slip the arc stitches before the next stitches twisted on the needle and knit them together with the first stitch on the needle. In the next row, bind off with knits over knits and purls over purls. Carefully secure the collar with stitches on each side towards the band – sew edge to edge to avoid a thick seam. 

POCKET: 
Knit back and forth on circular needles. Cast on 28-28-28-36-36-36 stitches on circular needles size 6 mm with Nepal. Knit the pattern according to chart A.5 (choose the chart for your size) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the pocket measures approximately 17-17-17-20-20-20 cm in length – adjust after 1 complete rapport of lace pattern in the center – decrease from the right side 2 stitches over each braid and 3 stitches over the lace pattern in the center = 21-21-21-27-27-27 stitches. Switch to circular needles size 5 mm and knit 4 knit rows and bind off with knits from the wrong side. Knit another pocket but for sizes XL + XXL + XXXL knit according to chart A.6 instead of A.5. Sew 1 pocket onto each front with stitches inside 1 edge stitch approximately 13-13-13-17-17-17 cm from the lower edge (try on the jacket for placement) – the pattern on the pocket should match the pattern rapport on the front.

Chart

	=	knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side
	=	purl on the right side, knit on the wrong side
	=	1 yarn over between 2 stitches
	=	slip 1 stitch as knit, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one
	=	knit 2 stitches together knitwise
	=	2 purl together
	=	slip 1 stitch onto an additional needle in front of work, knit 3, knit 1 from the additional needle
	=	slip 3 stitches onto an additional needle behind work, knit 1, knit 3 from the additional needle