According to the drawing, the segment is equal to 16 cm: 16 cm: 3 = 5.3 cm.
We obtain points K and K1. Through point K1, we draw a horizontal line. The intersection points with the armhole line are designated by the letters K2 and K3 (see drawing). The segment KCK3 — is the control line. We determine how many rows will be knitted in each part: 4.2 rows X 5.3 ~ 22 rows.
The length of segment GΧG2 (the width of the sleeve along the armhole line) is 36 cm, or 108 stitches (3 stitches X 36 cm = 108 stitches). Therefore, along the armhole line, we need to decrease by 108 stitches. We perform the calculation of decreasing stitches at the sleeve cap for each half separately.
Consider the decrease of stitches from the back side, i.e., from the left. In the finished drawing, we measure the length of segment K2K: K2K1 = 8.1 cm, or 3 stitches X 8.1 « 24 stitches.
The segment G, G equals 54 stitches (108 stitches: 2). We determine how many stitches need to be decreased from the armhole line to the beginning of the third part, i.e., to the control line K2K3. For this, we subtract the number of stitches in segment KK1 from the number of stitches in segment G: 54 stitches — 24 stitches = 30 stitches.
Thus, we need to distribute the decrease of 30 stitches over a distance of 44 rows (the total number of rows in the first and second parts).
From the armhole line, we initially decrease the number of stitches equal to the first 4-5 decreases made along the lower edge of the back armhole (segment G1G2). In our example, in the left half of the sleeve cap, we will decrease: 5, 3, three times by 2 and 10 times by 1 stitch in every 2nd row, i.e., every other row. Then three times by 1 stitch in every 4th row. We start decreasing stitches at the beginning of the purl row.
Now consider the decrease of stitches along the armhole cap from the front side, i.e., from the right.
The segment G2G equals 1/2 of segment G1G2 or 54 stitches (108 stitches: 2).
The segment KKX when measured is equal to 6.9 cm: 3 stitches X 6.9 « 21 stitches.
Therefore, from the right, we decrease 33 stitches (54 stitches — 21 stitches). From the armhole line, we initially decrease the number of stitches equal to the first 3-4 decreases made along the lower edge of the front armhole. In our example, in the right half of the sleeve cap, we will decrease: 6, 4, 3, 2 stitches and 17 times by 1 stitch in every 2nd row. We start decreasing stitches at the beginning of the knit row.
We calculate the decrease of stitches in the third part. Along the line K2K3, we have 45 stitches (24 stitches + 21 stitches) that need to be decreased over a distance of 22 rows.
It is recommended to leave a complete part (8-12 stitches) in the upper part of the armhole, which means that a total of 37 stitches need to be decreased (45 stitches — 8 stitches).
From the left, we decrease stitches in the following sequence: seven times by 1 and three times by 4 stitches in every second row, and from the right, eight times by 1, two times by 3 and one time by 4 stitches in every 2nd row, closing the remaining 8 stitches in one go with a braid.
Additional dart in the armhole
Starting from the 48th measurement (in cases where the garment is knitted in stocking stitch), it is recommended to perform an additional dart in the armhole. The length of the dart for all sizes is around 3-5 cm, and its depth does not exceed 1.5-2.5 cm. We perform the dart with partial knitting of elongated rows, which we knit from the middle of the fabric to the outer edge of the armhole.
To perform the dart, we make the following calculation:
a) we determine how many stitches will be along the length of the dart: 3 stitches X 5 = 15 stitches « 16 (rounding to an even number);
b) we calculate the number of rows according to the depth of the dart. The depth of the dart, equal to 2 cm, makes up 8 rows (4.2 rows X 2), or 4 phases;
c) we determine how many stitches we will lengthen each row when knitting the additional dart: 16 stitches: 4 = 4 stitches.
Let’s consider knitting the additional dart in the right front.
The width of the front, including the flap for the fastener, is 29 cm, or 87 stitches (3 stitches X 29 = 87 stitches).
We start knitting the additional dart after we have made the first 4 decreases along the lower edge of the armhole (phases), i.e., when there are 15 unknitted stitches (6, 4, 3 and 2 stitches) on the left needle at the end of the knit row, and 8 rows will have been knitted from the armhole line (see fig. 270). Next, we knit as follows:
9th row (right side) — we knit 45 stitches, leaving 42 unknitted on the left needle. We turn the work to the purl side. Thus, on the left needle, all stitches of the lower edge of the armhole and the stitches intended for the additional dart remain unknitted (26 stitches + 16 stitches = 42 stitches);
10th row (purl side) — we knit 45 stitches according to the pattern;
11th row — we knit 49 stitches (45 stitches + 4 stitches), leaving 38 stitches unknitted on the left needle. We turn the work to the purl side
270(fig.270) Scheme of decreasing stitches in the armhole and knitting the additional dart
We completed the 1st phase of partial knitting with elongated rows);
12th row — we knit 49 stitches according to the pattern;
13th row — we knit 53 stitches (49 stitches + 4 stitches), leaving 34 stitches unknitted on the left needle. We turn the work to the purl side (we completed the 2nd phase);
14th row — we knit 53 stitches according to the pattern;
15th row — we knit 57 stitches (53 stitches + 4 stitches), leaving 30 stitches unknitted on the left needle. We turn the work to the purl side (we completed the 3rd phase);
16th row — we knit 57 stitches according to the pattern;
17th row — we knit 72 stitches:
Thus, on the left needle, 15 stitches remain unknitted, just as before the start of knitting the additional dart.
From this row, we continue the gradual decrease of stitches along the lower edge of the armhole. At the end of the knit row, we leave 7 stitches unknitted (see «Decreasing stitches along the lower edge of the front armhole»). When there are 22 stitches unknitted on the left needle from the armhole side, we knit the knit row, and at the beginning of the next row, we close 22 stitches with a braid.
Next, we knit strictly according to the pattern and according to the calculation, we decrease another four times by 1 stitch in every 4th row from the armhole side, i.e., a total of 26 stitches are decreased along the lower edge of the front armhole.
When knitting the additional dart, the distance from the armhole line to the beginning of the shoulder slope can be reduced by 1 cm.
Thus, when knitting the front for larger sizes, any type of darts can be used. You can combine side darts and additional, side and horizontal, but in doing so, it is necessary to take into account the entire length of the finished product.
The decrease of stitches on the shoulder slope is calculated and performed in the same way as when knitting the back.
The decrease of stitches along the lower edge of the front armhole
The decrease of stitches along the lower edge of the front armhole is performed on the segment G6G7. The length of the segments G is determined in the same way as when calculating the back. If a small number of stitches (16-18 stitches) needs to be decreased along the lower edge of the front armhole, we do this in the same way as when knitting the back. In knitting larger size garments, a larger number of stitches needs to be decreased along the lower edge of the front armhole — from 25 to 45 stitches, depending on the density of knitting and the length of the segment. In our example, the length of the segment is 8.5 cm: 3 stitches X 8.5 ~ 26 stitches.
The length of segment G7ΠA is 8.5 cm, or: 4.2 rows X 8.5 « 36 rows.
Therefore, we need to decrease 26 stitches over a distance of 36 rows, or in 18 increments (phases).
Stitches can be decreased using partial knitting with shortened rows or by closing them with a braid, just as at the end of the knitting, i.e., the same way as in the back.
We decrease stitches approximately in the following sequence: the first time we decrease by 6-7 stitches, the second time — by 4-5 stitches, the third time — by 3-4 stitches (this can be repeated two or three times), the fourth time — by 2-3 stitches (this can also be repeated two or three times). The remaining stitches are decreased by closing 1 stitch each time, i.e., knitting 2 stitches together.
In our example, we decrease 6, 4, 3, 2 stitches, seven times by 1 stitch in every 2nd row and four times by 1 stitch in every 4th row.
When closing the stitches of the last row, the last row can be tightened or knit 2-3 stitches together to achieve a smaller fit of the fabric along the lower edge of the armhole.
At the shoulder slope, we add 4 to 6 stitches (if required by the pattern). The addition of stitches is calculated in the same way as when knitting the back (over the distance of the segment). In some cases (very narrow shoulders), stitches are decreased from the armhole line to the beginning of the shoulder slope.
Formation of horizontal (radiating) darts
When knitting garments with set-in sleeves of smaller sizes, the extension of the front is performed as in a jacket with raglan sleeves. If we are knitting a larger size garment, starting from the 50th size, it is recommended to use horizontal darts.
Such a dart is made with partial knitting of elongated and shortened rows (it is recommended to use the second method of partial knitting). The line of the dart is located at a distance of 4-6 cm from the armhole line. To start performing the dart, the following calculation should be made:
a) we determine the depth of the dart. In our example, the depth of the dart is 3 cm (see «Calculation of the balance of the garment»);
b) we determine the length of the dart. The length of the dart is determined in the same way as when knitting jackets with raglan sleeves (see «Γorizontal dart»). In our example, the length of the dart is 15 cm. We calculate the number of stitches along the length of the dart: 3 stitches X 15 = 45 stitches;
c) we determine how many rows need to be knitted over a distance of 3 cm (the depth of the dart): 4.2 rows X 3 ~ « 12 rows (rounding to an even number of rows).
The dart is executed with two types of partial knitting. We allocate 6 rows for each type of knitting (12 rows: 2 or 3 phases).
We determine how many stitches we will lengthen or shorten each row in one phase: 45 stitches: 3 = 15 stitches.
Let’s consider the technology of knitting the horizontal dart in the right front (see fig. 269). We perform the first half of the dart with elongated rows from the middle of the fabric towards the side line, and the second half — with shortened rows from the side line to the middle of the fabric. The width of the front including the flap is 29 cm, of which 25 cm (3 stitches X 25 cm = 75 stitches) is knitted in the front pattern and 4 cm (3 stitches X 4 cm = 12 stitches) — in the flap pattern. For the entire width of the front, we cast on 87 stitches (3 stitches X 29 cm = 87 stitches).
After knitting to the dart line, we start knitting with elongated rows:
1st row (right side) — at the beginning of the row according to the pattern, we knit 57 stitches (of which 15 stitches are designated for the dart), leaving the remaining 30 stitches on the left needle unknitted to the end of the row. We turn the work to the purl side;
269(fig.269) Scheme of knitting the horizontal dart
2nd row (purl side) — we knit 57 stitches according to the pattern;
3rd row — at the beginning of the row according to the pattern, we knit 72 stitches (of which 30 stitches are designated for the dart), leaving the remaining 15 stitches on the left needle unknitted to the end of the row. We turn the work to the purl side;
4th row — we knit 72 stitches according to the pattern;
5th and 6th rows — we knit all the stitches of the row to the end.
The second half of the dart is knitted with shortened rows;
7th row — at the beginning of the row according to the pattern, we knit 72 stitches, leaving the remaining 15 stitches on the left needle unknitted to the end of the row. We turn the work to the purl side;
8th row — we knit 72 stitches according to the pattern;
9th row — at the beginning of the row, we knit 57 stitches, leaving the remaining 30 stitches on the left needle unknitted to the end of the row. We turn the work to the purl side;
10th row — we knit 57 stitches;
11th row — at the beginning of the row, we knit 42 stitches, leaving the remaining 45 stitches on the left needle unknitted to the end of the row. We turn the work to the purl side;
12th row — we knit 42 stitches;
13th row — we knit all 87 stitches of the row to the end.
Formation of the shoulder slope line
To determine the sequence in which the stitches need to be decreased on the shoulder slope ΠХА2, we perform the following calculation:
a) according to the finished drawing, we establish the length of segment Πхa: Π^a = 14 cm, or 3 stitches X 14 = 42 stitches;
b) we determine how many rows will be knitted in segment A^a, equal to 5.8 cm (the height of the shoulder slope): 4.2 rows 5.8 ~ 24 rows;
c) we perform the decrease of stitches on the shoulder slope, closing them with a braid, as when finishing knitting, or using partial knitting with shortened rows. In any case, we perform the decrease of 42 stitches in 12 increments, or 12 phases (24 rows: 2);
d) we determine how many stitches need to be decreased in one increment: 42 stitches: 12 = 3.5 stitches. Since we get a fractional number when dividing, we will decrease alternating between 3 and 4 stitches.
Using the technique of closing stitches with a braid, at the beginning of each row, we close 2 stitches, in the next decrease — 3, and at the end of each row, we will knit the last 2 stitches together. As a result of this decrease, we will get a smooth line of the shoulder slope.
When decreasing stitches with partial knitting, at the end of each row on the left needle, we leave unknitted once 3, another time 4 stitches — until there are 42 unknitted stitches left on each side. Then we knit all the stitches along the shoulder slope and close them consecutively with a braid.
The decrease of stitches on the growth is performed in the same way as when knitting a jacket with raglan sleeves.
Calculation of the balance of the garment
A good fit of the garment depends on determining the balance, i.e., the difference between the length of the back to the waist and the actual length of the front to the waist.
In our example, the length of the back to the waist is 39.5 cm. The length of the front by measurement from the 7th cervical vertebra (see fig. 255) is 53.5 cm. [Further...> To more accurately determine the actual length of the front to the waist, we subtract from this value the distance along the curve from the 7th cervical vertebra to the highest point of the neckline, i.e., the length of segment AA2 (we measure it according to the drawing with a centimeter placed on the rib): AA2 = 7.8 cm.
Therefore, the actual length of the front will be: 53.5 cm — 7.8 cm = 45.7 cm.
Now, to establish the balance value, from the actual length of the front, we subtract the length of the back: 45.7 cm — 39.5 cm = 6.2 cm.
Thus, the front should be longer than the back by 6.2 cm.
We check what the length of the front to the waist is on the drawing. In the proposed construction, an increase for the front for all sizes is provided for by 3.5-4 cm. This value includes 1 cm (allowance for the length of the back for the protrusion of the shoulder blades) plus the height of the growth (segment A1A2), equal to 2.5-3 cm. Therefore, the length of the front in the finished drawing is equal to the length of the back to the waist (39.5 cm) plus the increase (1 cm + 2.5 cm = 3.5 cm): 39.5 cm + 3.5 cm = 43 cm.
To determine the value by which the front needs to be lengthened when knitting, we should subtract from the balance value the amount taken for increasing the front during the drawing construction. In our example: 6.2 cm — 3.5 cm » 3 cm.
Therefore, when knitting, the front needs to be lengthened by 3 cm. This obtained value can serve as the depth of the dart.
The depth of the dart can also be determined by another method: from the actual length of the front to the waist, we subtract the length of the front obtained during the drawing construction: 45.7 cm — 43 cm = « 3 cm.
The second method of decreasing stitches along the armhole
The decrease of stitches along the lower edge of the armhole can be performed with partial knitting using shortened rows. For this, at the end of each row, we leave unknitted stitches in the following sequence: 5, 3, 2, and 1 stitch, i.e., the number of stitches we decrease according to the calculation made in each row.
To complete the partial knitting, first on the right side of the work, and then on the purl side, we knit all stitches to the end of the row, and at the beginning of the next, we close 14 stitches with a braid. The remaining stitches, which still need to be decreased (in our example 4 stitches, i.e., 18 stitches — 14 stitches), are decreased by 1 stitch in every 4th row. In total, we decrease 18 stitches on each side of the back.
Next, we knit, adding stitches along the line Γ3Π (if required by the shape of the pattern). To determine how many stitches need to be added to the back at the beginning of the shoulder slope, we should mark the intersection point of the line of the beginning of the shoulder slope with the vertical line A3Γ on the drawing with the letter Π.
268(fig.268) Scheme of decreasing stitches along the lower edge of the back armhole
The length of segment Пхп is measured according to the finished drawing. In our example, П1, n = 1.7 cm, or 3 stitches X 1.7 « 5 stitches. Also, according to the finished drawing, we measure the length of segment Γ3п: Γ3и = 13.6 cm, or 4.2 rows Χ13.6 « ~ 57 rows.
We determine after how many rows we will add stitches: 57 rows: 5 = 11 rows.
Therefore, in every 11th row from both sides, we will add 1 stitch.
The first method of decreasing stitches along the armhole
Let’s consider in detail the decrease of 18 stitches over a distance of 25 rows (fig. 268). We start decreasing stitches from the right side of the work:
1st row (right side) — at the beginning of the row, we close 5 stitches with a braid as when finishing the knitting.
