Knitted Sweater

SIZES:

XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)

Final bust measurement: 36 ¾ (39, 43 ¾, 47 ½) (52 ¼, 55 ¾, 60 ¾, 64)” / 93.5 (99.5, 111, 121) (133, 141.5, 154.5, 162.5) cm - suggested positive ease 2-8” / 5-20 cm.

Shown in size XS with a positive ease of 7” / 17.5 cm

YARN
Biches & Bûches Le Petit Lambswool (100% wool – 271 yards / 248 m per 50 g) 8 (9, 10, 11) (12, 13, 14, 15) skeins of yarn, color Grey beige
Or approximately 2067 (2220, 2515, 2821) (3160, 3412, 3784, 4024) yards / 1890 (2030, 2300, 2580) (2890, 3120, 3460, 3680) m of light fingering weight yarn

Hold the yarn double.

NEEDLES
1 pair of circular needles size 4 and 2 pairs size 5, 60 cm long or longer.
If necessary, choose a different needle size to obtain the correct gauge.

GAUGE
With size 5 needles and double yarn: 16 sts and 26 rows/rnd = 4” / 10 cm in stockinette stitch, after blocking.
Cable pattern gauge: 25 sts x 40 rows/rnd = 4” x 6” / 10 cm x 15 cm.

NOTIONS
Scrap yarn, stitch markers (18-30), cable needle, tapestry needle

NOTES

kareno / 枯野 is a loose square boxy pullover with cable patterns, knitted top down. The front and back are first knitted separately, then joined at the underarms and the body of the pullover is knitted in the round from top to bottom in one piece. After completing the cross cord along the upper edge of the lower band, the body is separated again, and the ribbed bands for the front and back are knitted separately in flat rows. Stitches for the sleeves are picked up along the edges of the armholes and the sleeves are knitted in the round to the cuffs, then knitted in flat rows. The pullover can be worn inside out. Enjoy the variety of textures. kareno / 枯野 translates from Japanese as “dry winter grass”.

Final measurements: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)

A: Bust circumference

36 ¾ (39, 43 ¾, 47 ½) (52 ¼, 55 ¾, 60 ¾, 64)” / 93.5 (99, 111, 121) (133, 141.5, 154.5, 162.5) cm

B: Depth of yoke

8 ¾ (9, 9 ¾, 10 ¼) (10 ¾, 11 ¼, 11 ½, 12 ¼)” / 22 (23, 24.5, 26) (27.5, 29, 29.5, 31) cm

C: Shoulder circumference

16 ½ (17, 18 ½, 20) (20 ¾, 22 ¼, 22 ¾, 24 ¼)” / 42 (43, 47, 50.5) (53, 57, 58, 62) cm

D: Sleeve length 16 ¼ (16 ¼, 16 ¼, 16 ¾) (16 ¾, 16 ¾, 17, 17)” / 41 (41, 41, 42.5) (42.5, 42.5, 43.5, 43.5) cm

E: Body length

11 ¾ (11 ¾, 12, 11 ¾) (12, 11 ¾, 12 ¼, 11 ¾)” / 30 (30, 30.5, 30) (30.5, 30, 31, 30) cm

F: Cuff circumference 8 ½ (8 ½, 8 ½, 9 ¼) (9 ¼, 9 ¾, 9 ¾, 10 ½)” / 21.5 (21.5, 21.5, 23.5) (23.5, 25, 25, 26.5) cm

G: Neckline 9 ½ (9 ¾, 10, 10) (10, 10 ¼, 10 ¼, 10 ½)” / 24.5 (25, 25, 25) (25.5, 26, 26, 27) cm

EXECUTION

BACK

Note: Always knit with the yarn held double.

Using size 5 needles and the long-tail CO method, cast on 117 (124, 139, 151) (166, 177, 193, 203) sts. Do not join.

Setup Row 1 (WS): 1 k, 1 p, 2 (4, 1, 3) (1, 4, 1, 3) k, [PM, 1 p, 1 k, 1 p, 3 k, 1 p, 1 k, 1 tbl p, 1 k, 1 tbl p, 3 k, 1 tbl p, 1 k, 1 tbl p, 1 k, 1 p, 3 k, 1 p, 1 k, 1 p, PM **, 3 (4, 2, 4) (2, 3, 2, 3) k] x 3 (3, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), repeat from * to **, 2 (4, 1, 3) (1, 4, 1, 3) k, 1 p, 1 k.

Setup Row 2 (RS): 1 p, 1 k, p to marker, [SM, 1 k, 1 p, 1 k, 3 p, 1 k, 1 p, 1 tbl k, 1 p, 1 tbl k, 3 p, 1 tbl k, 1 p, 1 tbl k, 1 p, 1 k, 3 p, 1 k, 1 p, 1 k, SM **, p to marker] x 3 (3, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), SM, repeat from * to **, p to last 2 sts, 1 k, 1 p.

Setup Row 3 (WS): 1 k, 1 p, k to marker, [SM, 1 p, 1 k, 1 k, 3 k, 1 p, 1 k, 1 tbl p, 1 k, 1 tbl p, 3 k, 1 tbl p, 1 k, 1 tbl p, 1 k, 1 p, 3 k, 1 p, 1 k, 1 p, SM **, k to marker] x 3 (3, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), repeat from * to **, k to last 2 sts, 1 p, 1 k.

Repeat Setup Rows 2-3 4 more times.

Cable Pattern

Row 1 (RS): 1 p, 1 k, p to marker, [SM, knit Row 1 of Chart, SM, p to marker] x 3 (3, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), SM, knit Row 1 of Chart, SM, p to last 2 sts, 1 k, 1 p.

Row 2 (WS): 1 k, 1 p, k to marker, [SM, knit Row 2 of Chart, SM, k to marker] x 3 (3, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), knit Row 2 of Chart, SM, k to last 2 sts, 1 p, 1 k.

Continue knitting in established pattern until Row 16 of Chart inclusive, then repeat rows 1-16 until the back measures about 8 ¾ (9, 9 ½, 10 ¼) (10 ¾, 11 ¼, 11 ½, 12 ¼)” / 22 (23, 24.5, 26) (27.5, 29, 29.5, 31) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with Row 16 (2, 6, 10) (14, 2, 4, 8) of the Chart (WS).

Cut the yarn, place all stitches on scrap yarn.

FRONT

Place markers 28 (31, 38, 44) (51, 56, 64, 68) sts from each end or wherever you want to place the start of the neckline. If you change the width of the neckline, add or subtract stitches so that the total number of stitches equals 117 (124, 139, 151) (166, 177, 193, 203) sts. Using size 5 needles and with the RS facing, starting from the right edge towards the center back, pick up and knit 28 (31, 38, 44) (51, 56, 64, 68) sts, using the Cable CO method, cast on 61 (62, 63, 63) (64, 65, 65, 67) sts, pick up and knit 28 (31, 38, 44) (51, 56, 64, 68) sts. You will have 117 (124, 139, 151) (166, 177, 193, 203) sts.

Pick up stitches under the bumps of the purl stitches.

Knit the setup rows, then the Cable Pattern until the front measures about 8 ¾ (9, 9 ½, 10 ¼) (10 ¾, 11 ¼, 11 ½, 12 ¼)” / 22 (23, 24.5, 26) (27.5, 29, 29.5, 31) cm from the cast-on edge.

JOIN FRONT AND BACK

Place the back stitches on additional size 5 needles.

Setup Round (RS): *1 p, 1 k, p to marker, [SM, knit Row 1 (3, 7, 11) (15, 3, 5, 9) of Chart, SM, p to marker] x 3 (3, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), SM, knit from Chart, SM, p to last 2 sts, 1 k, 1 p, PM (side) **, repeat from * to **.

You will have 234 (248, 278, 302) (332, 354, 386, 406) sts on the needles.

BODY

Round 1: *1 p, 1 k, p to marker, [SM, knit from Chart, SM, p to marker] x 3 (3, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), SM, knit from Chart, SM, p to 2 sts before marker, 1 k, 1 p, SM **, repeat from * to **.

Continue knitting in established pattern until the body length measures about 8 ¾ (8 ¾, 9, 8 ¾) (9, 8 ¾, 9 ¼, 8 ¾)” / 22.5 (22.5, 23, 22.5) (23, 22.5, 23.5, 22.5) cm from the underarms, ending with Row 12 (14, 3, 6) (11, 14, 3, 4) or 3” / 7.5 cm shorter than the desired front length – end with Rows 3-6 or 11-14.

Remove markers, except for side markers in the last round.

Lower Edge

Setup round.

XS, 2XL and 3XL: (2 k, M1L, k to marker, SM) x 2 [+2 sts].

S: (1 k, SSK, k to 3 sts before marker, 2 sts together k, 1 k, SM) x 2 [-4 sts].

M, L and 4XL: (1 k, SSK, k to marker, SM) x 2 [-2 sts].

XL: K to end.

You will have 236 (244, 276, 300) (332, 356, 388, 404) sts on the needles.

CORD

Note: return side markers to their original position.

[Slip 1 st on left needle, knit 2nd st tbl, do not drop stitches from needle, knit 1st (slipped st) through the front leg, drop both stitches from needle*, slip 1 st back to left needle], repeat until you have 2 sts left on left needle, repeat from * to **, pick up and knit 1st st of cord and place the last st over the picked-up st.

Lower edge of the front

Switch to size 4 needles.

Setup row (RS): (you already have 1 st on right needle), 1 k, (2 p, 2 k) to marker, remove marker, place the next 118 (122, 138, 150) (166, 178, 194, 202) sts of the back on scrap yarn, remove marker, TW.

Setup row (WS): Slip 1 st with yarn in front, 1 p, (2 k, 2 p) to marker, TW.

Row 1: Slip 1 st with yarn in back, 1 k, (2 p, 2 k) to end.

Row 2: Slip 1 st with yarn in front, 1 p, (2 k, 2 p) to end.

Repeat Rows 1-2 to a height of 2 ½” / 6.5 cm from the cross cord, end with a WS row, place all stitches on scrap yarn, cut working yarn.

Lower edge of the back

Place back stitches on size 4 needles. Join yarn in RS.

Row 1 (RS): Slip 1 st with yarn in back, 1 k, (2 p, 2 k) to end.

Row 2 (WS): Slip 1 st with yarn in front, 1 p, (2 k, 2 p) to end.

Repeat Rows 1-2 to a height of 2 ½” / 6.5 cm from the cross cord, end with a WS row.

Bind off stitches with I-cord BO

Note: Bind off all stitches of the lower edge with I-cord. After binding off the lower edge stitches of the back, you will pick up and bind off stitches along the side edges of the lower bands, picking up 1 st in each slipped stitch.

Cast on 2 sts, (1 k, 2 sts together tbl k, slip 2 sts back to left needle) until all stitches of the lower edge of the back are bound off and there are 2 sts left on the right needle. * (Pick up 1 st along the side of the lower band, slip 3 sts back to left needle, 1 k, 2 sts together tbl k) to the end of the band (2 sts on right needle) **.

Place the stitches of the lower edge of the front on the needles. (Slip 2 sts back to left needle, 1 k, 2 sts together tbl k) to the last 2 sts of the lower edge of the front, repeat from * to **.

Cut the yarn. Sew the last 2 sts and the cast-on stitches together.

SLEEVES

Using size 5 needles and with the RS facing, pick up and knit 39 (40, 43, 46) (48, 51, 52, 55) sts along the armhole edge to the shoulder (approximately 2 sts for every 3 rows), then 39 (40, 43, 46) (48, 51, 52, 55) sts down to the underarm, PM.

You will have 78 (80, 86, 92) (96, 102, 104, 110) sts on the needles.

Setup round: 24 (25, 28, 31) (33, 36, 37, 40) k, PM, 1 p, 1 k, 1 p, PM, knit Row 1 of Chart, PM, 1 p, 1 k, 1 p, PM, k to end.

Next round: K to marker, SM, 1 p, 1 k, 1 p, SM, knit from Chart, SM, 1 p, 1 k, 1 p, SM, k to end.

Repeat the last round 5 (4, 3, 3) (3, 3, 2, 2) more times.

Round with decreases: 1 k, SSK, k to marker, SM, 1 p, 1 k, 1 p, SM, knit from Chart, SM, 1 p, 1 k, 1 p, SM, k to last 2 sts, 2 sts together k. [-2 sts].

Repeat the round with decreases every 7 (6, 5, 5) (5, 5, 4, 4)-th round for another 1 (10, 13, 13) (5, 1, 21, 19) times) [74 (58, 58, 64) (84, 98, 60, 70) sts], then 6 (5, 4, 4) (4, 4, -, 3)-th round 11 (3, 3, 4) (14, 19, - 3) times.

You will have 52 (52, 52, 56) (56, 60, 60, 64) sts.

Knit straight until the sleeve length measures 13 ½ (13 ½, 13 ½, 14 ¼) (14 ¼, 14 ¼, 14 ½, 14 ½)” / 34.5 (34.5, 34.5, 36) (36, 36, 37, 37) cm from the underarm, ending with Row 6 (6, 6, 10) (10, 10, 13, 13) or 2 ½” / 6.5 cm shorter than the desired length – end with Rows 3-6 or 11-14. In the last round, remove markers, except for the beginning of the round marker.

CUFF

Next round: K to end, remove marker.

Knit the cross cord just like on the lower edge of the body of the pullover.

Switch to size 4 needles.

Setup Row 1 (RS): (you already have 1 st on the right needle), (2 k, 2 p) to last 3 sts, 3 k, remove marker, TW.

Setup Row 2 (WS): Slip 2 sts with yarn in front, 1 p, (2 k, 2 p) to last st, 1 p, TW.

Row 1 (RS): Slip 2 sts with yarn in back, 1 k, (2 p, 2 k) to last st, 1 k.

Row 2 (WS): Slip 2 sts with yarn in front, 1 p, (2 k, 2 p) to last st, 1 p.

Knit straight in established pattern to a height of 2 ¼” / 5.5 cm.

Bind off stitches with I-cord BO

Without casting on stitches, (1 k, 2 sts together tbl k, slip 2 sts back to left needle) to last 4 sts, cut the yarn, leaving a 8” / 20 cm tail. Using a tapestry needle, join the bound-off stitches with a "stitch to stitch" method.

Knit the second sleeve similarly.

FINISHING

Weave in all ends. Block to final measurements.

INCREASES AND METHODS

M1L:  (make 1 stitch left-leaning), insert the left needle under the yarn between 2 stitches, then knit the stitch through the back loop.

PM: Place marker SM: Slip marker SSK: (slip, slip, knit), slip 2 knit stitches as if to knit, then insert the left needle into the slipped stitches and knit them together through the back loops. TW: Turn work 3/3/3RC: Slip 6 stitches onto a cable needle behind the work, 1 k, 1 p, 1 k, slip the last 3 stitches from the cable needle back to the left needle, then knit 3 p, (1 k, 1 p, 1 k) from the cable needle. 3/3/3LC-twisted: Slip 6 stitches onto a cable needle in front of the work, 1 tbl k, 1 p, 1 tbl k, slip 3 stitches from the cable needle back to the left needle, then knit 3 p, (1 tbl k, 1 p, 1 tbl k) from the cable needle.