Jumper

Sizes:
1 size: S-M
2 size: L-XL
Data for size 2 is given in parentheses.
If only a single number is indicated, it applies to all sizes.

Finished measurements after blocking:
Back length along the back from the start of the ribbing to the neckline bind-off
Back length 56 (58) cm
Chest circumference 100 (116) cm

MATERIALS
The jumper is knitted in 2 strands:
1 strand: Loro Piana skein yarn (90% angora, 10% merino wool,
450m/100g - 400 (500) g
Or Angora From The Farmer yarn (color) Rodina Yarns 100% angora; 25g/
120m - 8 (12) skeins
2 strands: QUEEN Rodina Yarns sequins yarn (30% kid mohair, 28% extrafine wool, superwash, 28% polyamide, 11% polyester, 3% elastane; 25g/250m - 4 (6) skeins

• Needles 5.5 and 8 mm of any length or needles of other thicknesses that allow achieving the required gauge
• Stitch marker
• Crochet hook 2.5 mm
• Scissors

Abbreviations:
K - knit stitch;
P - purl stitch;
Edge stitch;
Start of round marker.

Gauge:
14 stitches and 20 rows = 10x10 cm, lace pattern in the round, needles 8 mm
Your gauge may differ from mine significantly. I strongly recommend checking gauge on a swatch that you must wash and dry. Moreover, gauge in the round and in flat knitting may differ. Knit the swatch in the round. If necessary, choose the needle size that suits you.

Ribbing pattern in the round (even number of stitches):
All rounds: 1 K, 1 P – repeat from * to the end of the round.

Edge stitches are worked as follows: the first stitch is slipped as if to knit, without knitting it, the last stitch is purled.

Schematic drawing of the jumper

— Back length: 56 (58) cm
— Sleeve length: 60 (65) cm
— Chest width: 100 (116) cm
— Shoulder width: 38 (41) cm
— Armhole depth: 20 cm
— Cuff width at wrist: 18 (20) cm
— Ribbing height at hem and sleeves: 2.5 cm
— Ribbing height at neckline: 1.5 cm

Note: The back and sleeves of the jumper are worked from bottom to top in circular rounds. Then the sleeves are sewn to the “body” of the jumper.

Lace pattern for sleeves (repeat consists of 24 stitches (from 13th to 36th stitch) and 44 rows):

 purl

 knit

 yarn over

2 stitches together with a left-leaning decrease

 2 stitches together with a right-leaning decrease

 4 Knit stitches crossed to the left: slip 2 stitches onto a cable needle in front of work, knit the next 2 stitches, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

 10 Knit stitches crossed to the left:
slip 5 stitches onto a cable needle in front of the work, knit the next 5 stitches, then knit the 5 stitches from the cable needle.

FRONT TO BACK

On circular needles 5.5 mm cast on 145 (193) stitches. Join the stitches in the round by knitting the last stitch of the cast-on row together with the first stitch. You should end up with 144 (192) stitches joined in a circle.

Then knit for 7 circular rounds or 2.5 cm in a rib pattern according to the chart. Reset the row counter, switch to 8 mm needles and continue knitting starting from the first round:

1st round (Round 5 of the chart): MNR, 2 K, 5 P, 10 K, 5 P, 4 K – repeat the 24-stitch motif 5 (7) times, 5 P, 10 K, 5 P, 2 K

2nd round (Round 6 of the chart): MNR, 2 K, 5 P, 10 K, 5 P, 4 K – repeat the 24-stitch motif 5 (7) times, 5 P, 10 K, 5 P, 2 K

3rd round (Round 7 of the chart): move the MNR to the right by 2 stitches, bring 2 K back to the left needle: 4 K crossed to the left, 4 P, 2 closed stitches with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over, 8 K, yarn over, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease, 4 P – repeat from * to * 6 (8) times to the end of the round.

4th round (Round 8 of the chart): MNR: 4 K, 4 P, 12 K, 4 P – repeat from * to * 6 (8) times to the end of the round.

5th round (Round 9 of the chart): MNR: 4 K, 3 P, 2 together knit with right-leaning, yarn over, 2 together knit with right-leaning, yarn over, 6 K, yarn over, 2 together with left-leaning, yarn over, 2 together with left-leaning, 3 P – repeat from * to * 6 (8) times to the end of the round.

Then continue knitting straight following the Pattern Chart up to row 52 (74) inclusive (however, the second repeat after row 44 of the Chart should start from row 1 of the Chart and finish with row 12 (34) of the Chart).

Important note for size 2: If the length before dividing you are satisfied with is at 52 total rows from the ribbing, I recommend starting the division after the 52nd row. However, to make the pattern lay nicely into the neckline and armholes, you need to shift the Center of knitting forward by 12 stitches.

To do this, having reached the end of the 52nd row, simply move the MNR to the left by 12 stitches. The thread can be cut, attach it again to the 13th stitch. This place will be the start of circular knitting, or more precisely the start of knitting the Left Front.

Separation into Front and Back
Front is now the lower part of the jumper. Now the circular knitting must be divided into 3 parts: as you work, 1) the Left Front of the Front — the left front, then the neckline opening will be formed and 2) the Right Front of the Front, and 3) the Back.

Size 1 (S-M)

FRONT

LEFT FRONT PIECE

In the next 53rd knit row, knit the Front and Back separately with turning rows.
Immediately after the MNR, pick up 1 knit stitch from the right loop of the stitch located on the row below the first stitch of the front, knit the 53rd row (count it as the 1st knit row) of the Front over 37 (49) stitches, namely:

(If you want to knit a Vest, after separation you do not need to pick up new edge stitches, but you should instead decrease by 1 stitch on each side along the fronts and back on both sides. In total 4 stitches. And continue knitting as described for the Jumper without taking these stitches into account. The armholes of the vest can be finished either with a hook or with 1x1 rib)

1-st knit row: per Diagram 13: pick up 1 knit stitch from the right loop of the stitch located on the row below the first stitch of the front — this will be KP further, 2 knit stitches, 1 purl stitch, 2 together with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over, — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 purl, 4 knit stitches crossed to the left, 1 purl, yarn over, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 purl, 4 knit stitches, 1 purl, 2 together with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 purl, 2 knit stitches. Total 37 stitches.
Stop.

Turn the knitting to the wrong side. Move the Back stitches, 72 (96) stitches, onto auxiliary needles or a waste yarn.

If your gauge in turning and circular knitting differs — switch to a larger or smaller needle.

Starting from the 2nd wrong-side row, knit the left Front with turning rows in the same pattern as before the separation. However, the stitches according to the chart for wrong-side rows will be read in reverse.

2-nd wrong-side row: 1 KP, 1 IP, 1 LP, 6 IP, 1 LP, 4 IP — repeat from * to * 2 times, 1 LP, 6 IP, 1 LP, 2 IP, 1 KP.

NECKLINE SHAPING OF LEFT FRONT PIECE (Size 1)

Starting from the 3rd knit row, begin decreases for the neckline. For this, in the specified knit rows, knit 2 together with a right-leaning decrease at the end of the row.

Details:
3rd knit row: 1 KP, 2 LP, 2 together with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over, — repeat from * to * 3 times, 2 IP, 4 LP, 2 IP, yarn over, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease — repeat from * to * 3 times, 4 LP cross to the left, 2 together with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over, — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 IP, 2 together LP with a right-leaning decrease, 1 LP.
Total 36 stitches.

4th wrong-side row and all wrong-side rows: stitches as in the pattern.

Then knit the front piece, making neckline decreases in all right-side rows, knitting 2 knit stitches together before the edge according to the method of knitting the 3rd row until 26 stitches remain on the needles — on the 25th row.

Do not perform decreases on the 13th row, and from the 27th to the 37th rows. And from the 30th row you need to perform the shoulder slope.

Also in the 13th row, cross 10 stitches to the right, not to the left.

Cross 10 STITCHES to the RIGHT:
Slip 5 stitches onto a holder needle behind the work, knit the next 5 stitches, then knit the 5 stitches from the holding needle.

SHOULDER SLOPE OF LEFT FRONT PIECE (SIZE 1)

The shoulder slope of the jumper is needed so that, in the finished garment, the shoulder line lies smoothly, does not bunch up or “stick out,” and smoothly transitions into the sleeve.

Technically, the slope is performed with short rows. Specifically:

30th wrong-side row: do not knit to the end of the row 6 stitches: 20 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the knit side.
31st knit row: 20 stitches in pattern.
32nd wrong-side row: do not knit to the end of the row 5 stitches: 15 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the knit side.
33rd knit row: 15 stitches in pattern.
34th wrong-side row: do not knit to the end of the row 5 stitches: 10 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the knit side.
35th knit row: 10 stitches in pattern.
36th wrong-side row: in this row knit all stitches to the end, lifting all wrapped stitches: 26 stitches.

To do this, lift the wraps that were wrapped around the stitches during the turning and knit them as 2 together according to the pattern — either purl or knit.

37th knit row: 1 KP, 2 LP, 5 IP, 10 LP, 5 IP, 3 LP.

Stop here and leave the stitches of the left shoulder open, transferring them to an auxiliary needle or waste yarn. Leave a 30 cm tail for performing further knitting seam.

FRONT. RIGHT FRONT PIECE (SIZE 1)

Attach a new yarn in the center of the Front and continue knitting the Right Front from the knit row.

The Right Front is knitted similarly to the Left Front. Neckline decreases will also be performed.

Knit the 53rd row (count it as the 1st knit row) on 36 stitches, knit after the 36th stitch 1 knit stitch from the left loop of the stitch located on the row below the last stitch of the front, namely:

1st knit row: according to Diagram 13: 1 KP, 1 LP, 1 IP, yarn over, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 IP, 4 LP, 1 IP, 2 together with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 IP, 4 LP cross to the left, 1 IP, yarn over, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 IP, 2 LP, pick up stitches from the left purl chain located on the row below the next Front stitch to complete the loop.

Total on needles: 37 stitches.
Stop.

Turn the knitting to the wrong side. Move the Back stitches, 72 stitches, onto auxiliary needles or a waste yarn.

If your gauge in turning and circular knitting differs — switch to a larger or smaller needle.

Starting from the 2nd purl row, knit the right Front with turning rows in the same pattern as before the separation. However the stitches on the Chart for purl rows will be read in reverse.

2nd purl row: 1 edge stitch, 2 purl stitches, 1 knit, 6 purl, 1 knit, 4 purl — repeat from * to * 2 times, 1 knit, 6 purl, 1 knit, 1 purl, 1 edge stitch.

NECKLINE SHAPING Right Front (Size 1)

Starting from the 3rd knit row, begin decreases for the neckline.
For this, in the specified knit rows, at the beginning of the row, knit the 2nd and 3rd stitches as 2 together with a left-leaning decrease.

Details:
3rd knit row: 1 edge stitch, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease, 1 purl stitch, yarn over, 2 together with left-leaning decrease — repeat from * to * 3 times, cross 4 stitches to the left, 2 together with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over — repeat from * to * 3 times, 2 purl, 4 knit, 2 purl, yarn over, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease — repeat from * to * 3 times, 2 knit, 1 edge stitch.
Total 36 stitches.

4th purl row and all purl rows: stitches according to the pattern.

Then continue to knit the front piece, performing neckline decreases (total 11 times) in all knit rows, knitting 2 knit stitches together with a left-leaning decrease after the edge stitch following the method of knitting the 3rd row until there are 26 stitches on the needles — in the 25th row.

Decreases are not to be made in the 13th row, and from the 27th to the 37th rows. And from the 31st row it is necessary to perform a shoulder slope.

SHOULDER SLOPE Right Front (Size 1)

The shoulder slope of the jumper is necessary so that in the finished garment the shoulder line sits smoothly, does not bunch up and does not “poke out,” but seamlessly transitions into the sleeve.

Technically the slope is achieved with short rows. Specifically:

31st knit row: do not knit to the end of the row 6 stitches remain: 20 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the work to the wrong side.
32nd purl row: 20 stitches in pattern.
33rd knit row: do not knit to the end of the row 5 stitches remain: 15 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the work to the wrong side.
34th purl row: 15 stitches in pattern.
35th knit row: do not knit to the end of the row 5 stitches remain: 10 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the work to the wrong side.
36th purl row: 10 stitches in pattern.
37th knit row: in this row knit all stitches to the end, lifting all wrapped stitches: 26 stitches.

1 edge stitch, 2 knit stitches, 5 purl, 10 knit, 5 purl, 2 knit, 1 edge stitch.

For this, pick up the wraps that were wrapped around the stitches during turning and knit them as 2 together in the pattern — either purl or knit.

Stop and leave the stitches of the right shoulder on hold, transfer to a holding needle or waste yarn. Leave the end long, perhaps half a skein, so that later from this yarn you can finish the neckline edging.

BACK (Size 1)

From the 53rd knit row, knit the back separately with turning rows on all stitches according to the Pattern, but you need to add 1 edge stitch on each side.

For this, immediately after the Right Front, knit 1 stitch from the carried yarn and knit the 53rd row (count it as the 1st knit row) of the Back on 72 stitches, knit 1 stitch from the carried yarn between the last stitch of the Back and the first stitch of the Front.
Total 74 stitches.

Knit the Back further to the 30th purl row.
From the next purl row begin shoulder slopes.

SHOULDER SLOPES OF THE BACK

Shoulder slopes on the Back should be performed exactly as on the Front pieces, but the neckline shaping is done differently.
Details:

30th purl row: in this row do not knit to the end of the row 6 stitches:
68 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the knit side.

31st knit row: in this row do not knit to the end of the row 6 stitches:
62 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the purl side.

32nd purl row: in this row do not knit to the previous turning row 5 stitches:
57 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the knit side.

NECKLINE. BACK

In the next 33rd knit row, close the central stitches of the neckline and do not knit to the end of the row 5 stitches:

33rd knit row: in this row close the central 22 stitches for the neckline and do not knit to the previous turning row 5 stitches:

15 stitches in pattern, close the central 22 stitches in the classical way, knit the next 15 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the knit side.

BACK. LEFT SHOULDER

Stitches are now on the needles for the LEFT shoulder of the Back piece. Continue knitting from the wrong side:

34th purl row: 15 stitches in pattern.
35th knit row: do not knit to the end of the row 5 stitches: 10 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the wrong side.
36th purl row: 2 purl, 5 knit, 2 purl, 1 edge stitch.
37th knit row: in this row knit all stitches to the end, lifting all wrapped stitches: 26 stitches in pattern:
1 edge stitch, 2 knit stitches, 5 purl, 10 knit, 5 purl, 2 knit, 1 edge stitch.

For this, pick up the wraps around the stitches that were wrapped during turning and knit them as 2 together in the pattern — either purl or knit.

Stop and leave the stitches of the left shoulder open, transfer to a holding needle or waste yarn. Cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail for the knitted shoulder seam.

BACK. RIGHT SHOULDER

Turn the work to the wrong side. Attach a new thread at the beginning of the row after the closed central stitches of the Back and continue knitting from the wrong-side row.

34th purl row: do not knit to the end of the row 5 stitches: 10 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the knit side.
35th knit row: 2 knit, 5 purl, 3 knit.
36th purl row: in this row knit all stitches to the end, lifting all wrapped stitches: 26 stitches in pattern.

For this, pick up the wraps around the stitches that were wrapped during turning and knit them as 2 together in the pattern — either purl or knit.

37th knit row: 1 edge stitch, 2 knit stitches, 5 purl stitches, 10 knit stitches, 5 purl stitches, 3 knit stitches.

Hold and leave the left shoulder stitches live, transfer to an auxiliary needle or scrap yarn. Cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail for the knitted shoulder seam.

Size 2 (L-XL)

FRONT

LEFT FRONT PIECE

In the next 75th knit row, knit the Front and Back separately with turning rows.

For this, immediately after the MNR, pick up 1 knit stitch from the right leg of the loop located on the row below the first stitch of the front piece, knit the 75th row (count it as the 1st knit row) on the Front over 49 stitches, namely:

(If you want to knit a Vest, then after separation you do not need to knit new edge stitches, but you should decrease by 1 stitch on each side along the fronts and back on both sides. A total of 4 stitches. And continue knitting as described for the Jumper, without counting these stitches. The armholes of the vest can be finished either with crochet or with a 1x1 rib.)

First knit row: according to the 35th row of the diagram: knit 1 stitch from the right leg of the loop located on the row below the first stitch of the front piece — this will be the edge stitch from now on, then 2 knit stitches, 1 purl stitch, yarn over, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 purl stitch, 4 knit stitches, 1 purl stitch, 2 together with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 purl stitch, 4 knit stitches cross to the left, 1 purl stitch, yarn over, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 purl stitch, 4 knit stitches, 1 purl stitch, 2 together with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 purl stitch, 2 knit stitches.
Total 49 stitches.
Stop.

Turn the knitting to the wrong side. The back stitches, totaling 96 stitches, transfer to auxiliary needles or scrap yarn.

If your gauge in turning and circular knitting differs — switch to a larger or smaller needle.

Starting from the 2nd purl row, knit the left Front Piece with turning rows in the same pattern as before the separation. However, the stitches according to the chart for purl rows will read in reverse.

2nd purl row: 1 edge stitch, 1 purl stitch, 1 knit stitch, 6 purl stitches, 1 knit stitch, 4 purl stitches — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 knit stitch, 6 purl stitches, 1 knit stitch, 2 purl stitches, 1 edge stitch.

NECKLINE OF LEFT FRONT PIECE (Size 2)

Starting from the 3rd knit row, begin decreases for the neckline.
For this, in the specified knit rows, work 2 stitches together with a right-leaning decrease at the end of the row.

Details:
3rd knit row: 1 edge stitch, 2 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, yarn over, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease — repeat from * to * 3 times, 4 knit stitches crossed to the left, 2 together with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over — repeat from * to * 3 times, 2 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, yarn over, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease — repeat from * to * 3 times, 4 knit stitches crossed to the left, 2 together with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 purl stitch, 2 together knitwise with a right-leaning decrease, 1 edge stitch.
Total 48 stitches.

4th purl row and all purl rows: stitches as per pattern.

Next, knit the front piece, performing neckline decreases (a total of 13 times) in all knit rows, knitting together 2 knit stitches before the edge following the method of the 3rd row until 35 stitches remain on the needles — in the 31st row.

Do not perform decreases in the 13th row, and from the 32nd to the 39th rows. From the 32nd row, begin shoulder shaping.

Also on the 13th row, cross 10 stitches not to the left, but to the right.

Cross 10 knit stitches to the right:
Slip 5 stitches onto an auxiliary needle behind the work, knit the next 5 stitches, then knit the 5 stitches from the auxiliary needle.

SHOULDER SLOPE OF LEFT FRONT PIECE (Size 2)

The shoulder slope of the jumper is needed so that the finished garment has a softly laid shoulder line that does not bunch or protrude, but smoothly transitions into the sleeve.

Technically, the slope is performed with short rows. Namely:
Currently there are 35 stitches on the needles:

32nd purl row: do not finish the row; wrap the next stitch and turn to the wrong side, 29 stitches remain in pattern.
33rd knit row: 29 stitches in pattern.
34th purl row: do not finish the row with 5 stitches: 24 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn to the right side.
35th knit row: 24 stitches in pattern.
36th purl row: do not finish the row with 5 stitches: 19 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn to the right side.
37th knit row: 19 stitches in pattern.
38th purl row: in this row knit all stitches to the end, lifting all wrapped stitches: 35 stitches.

To do this, lift the wraps around the stitches made during turning and knit them as 2 together according to the pattern, either purl or knit.

39th knit row: 1 edge stitch, 5 knit stitches, 5 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, 5 purl stitches, 10 knit stitches, 3 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches.

Hold and leave the left shoulder stitches live, transfer to an auxiliary needle or scrap yarn. Leave a large tail, perhaps half a skein, so that later you can work the neckline edging from this thread.

FRONT. RIGHT FRONT PIECE (Size 2)

Attach a new yarn at the center of the Front and continue knitting the Right Front Piece from the right side.

Knit the right front piece similarly to the left Front Piece.
The neckline decreases will also be performed.

Knit the 75th row (count it as the 1st knit row) on 49 stitches, then knit 1 knit stitch from the left leg of the loop located on the row below the last stitch of the front piece, namely:

1st knit row: according to the 35th row of the chart: 2 knit stitches, 1 purl stitch, yarn over, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 purl stitch, 4 knit stitches, 1 purl stitch, 2 together with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 purl stitch, 4 knit stitches cross to the left, 1 purl stitch, yarn over, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 purl stitch, 4 knit stitches, 1 purl stitch, 2 together with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 purl stitch, 2 knit stitches, knit from the left wrap of the stitch located on the row below the last stitch of the front piece to form the loop.

Total on needles: 49 stitches.
Stop.

Turn the knitting to the wrong side. The back stitches, totaling 96 stitches, transfer to auxiliary needles or scrap yarn.

If your gauge in turning and circular knitting differs, switch to a bigger or smaller needle.

Starting from the 2nd wrong-side row, knit the Right Front with turning rows in the same pattern as before the division. However, the stitches in the chart for the purl rows will read in the opposite order.

2nd wrong-side row: 1 edge stitch, 2 purls, 1 knit, 6 purls, 1 knit, 4 purls — repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 knit, 6 purls, 1 knit, 1 purl, 1 edge stitch.

NECKLINE SHAPING OF THE RIGHT FRONT (SIZE 2)

Starting from the 3rd right-side row, begin decreases for the neckline.
To do this, in the indicated right-side rows, work at the beginning of the row after the edge the 2nd and 3rd knit stitches as a 2-stitch left-leaning decrease.

Details:
3rd right-side row: 1 edge stitch, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease, 1 purl, yarn over, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease — repeat from * to * 3 times, 4 knit stitches crossed to the left, 2 together with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over — repeat from * to * 3 times, 2 purls, 4 knits, 2 purls, yarn over, 2 together with a left-leaning decrease — repeat from * to * 3 times, 4 knits crossed to the left, 2 together with a right-leaning decrease, yarn over — repeat from * to * 3 times, 2 purls, 2 knits, 1 edge stitch.
Total 48 stitches.

4th wrong-side row and all wrong-side rows: stitches as in the pattern.

Next, continue with the front, performing neckline decreases in all right-side rows, knitting 2 knit stitches together with a left-leaning after the edge according to the method of the 3rd row until there are 35 stitches left on the needles — in the 31st row.

Do not perform decreases in the 13th row, and from the 32nd through the 39th rows. And from the 33rd row you need to perform the shoulder slope.

SHOULDER SLOPE OF THE RIGHT FRONT (SIZE 2)

The shoulder slope of the jumper is necessary so that in the finished garment the shoulder line lies smoothly, does not bunch up and does not “stick out,” but smoothly transitions into the sleeve.

Technically the slope is performed with short rows. Namely:
There are currently 35 stitches on the needles:

33rd right-side row: do not knit to the end of the row 6 stitches: 29 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the wrong side.
32nd wrong-side row: 29 stitches in pattern.
33rd right-side row: do not knit to the end of the row 5 stitches: 24 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the wrong side.
34th wrong-side row: 24 stitches in pattern.
35th right-side row: do not knit to the end of the row 5 stitches: 19 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the wrong side.
36th wrong-side row: 19 stitches in pattern.
37th right-side row: in this row knit all stitches to the end, lifting all wrapped stitches: 35 stitches:
1 edge stitch, 2 knit stitches, 3 purl stitches, 10 knit, 5 purl, 4 knit, 5 purl, 4 knit, 1 edge stitch.

To do this, pick up the wraps that were wrapped around the stitches when turning and knit them as 2 together in pattern, either purl or knit.

Stop and leave the stitches of the left shoulder on hold, transferring them to a helper needle or scrap yarn. Leave the end long, possibly half a ball, so that later from this yarn you can complete the neckline edging.

BACK (Size 2)

From the 75th right-side row, knit the back separately with turning rows on all stitches according to the pattern, but add 1 edge stitch on each side.
For this, immediately after the Right Front, pick up 1 knit stitch from the wrap and knit the 75th row (count it as the 1st right-side row) of the Back on 96 stitches, pick up 1 knit stitch from the wrap between the last stitch of the Back and the first stitch of the Front.
Total 98 stitches.

Knit the Back further until the 32nd wrong-side row.
From the next wrong-side row, begin shoulder slope decreases.

SHOULDER SLOPES OF THE BACK

Shoulder slopes on the Back should be done exactly the same as on the Front, but the neckline shaping is done differently.
Details:

32nd wrong-side row: in this row do not finish the row by 6 stitches:
92 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the knit side.

33rd knit row: in this row do not finish the row by 6 stitches:
86 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the wrong side.

34th wrong-side row: in this row do not finish to the previous turn 5 stitches:
81 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the knit side.

NECKLINE. BACK

In the next 35th right-side row, bind off the central stitches of the neckline and do not knit the row to the end for 5 stitches:

35th right-side row: in this row bind off the central 28 stitches for the neckline and do not knit to the previous turn 5 stitches:
24 stitches in pattern, bind off the central 28 stitches in the classical way, knit the following 24 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the right side.

BACK. LEFT SHOULDER

There are currently stitches on the needles for the left shoulder of the Back piece. We'll continue knitting from the wrong side:

36th wrong-side row: 24 stitches in pattern.
37th knit row: do not finish the row by 5 stitches: 19 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the wrong side.
38th wrong-side row: 19 stitches in pattern.
39th right-side row: in this row knit all stitches to the end, lifting all wrapped stitches: 35 stitches:
1 edge stitch, 2 knit, 3 purl, 10 knit, 5 purl, 4 knit, 5 purl, 4 knit, 1 edge stitch.

To do this, pick up the wraps that were wrapped around the stitches during turning and knit them as 2 together in pattern, either purl or knit.

Stop and leave the stitches of the left shoulder on hold, transferring them to a helper needle or scrap yarn. Break the thread, leaving a 30 cm tail for the knit shoulder seam.

BACK. RIGHT SHOULDER

Turn the work to the wrong side. Attach a new thread at the start of the row after the bound-off central stitches of the Back and continue knitting from the wrong-side row.

36th WS row: do not work to the end of the row for 5 stitches: 19 stitches in pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn the knitting to the right side.
37th RS row: 19 stitches in pattern.
38th WS row: in this row, work all stitches to the end, lifting all wrapped stitches: 35 stitches in pattern.

For this, lift the wraps that wrapped the stitches at the turning points and knit them together as 2 together according to the pattern, either purlwise or knitwise.

39th RS row: 1 edge stitch, 5 knit stitches, 5 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, 5 purl stitches, 10 knit stitches, 3 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches.

Stop and keep the stitches of the left shoulder on hold, transfer them to an auxiliary needle or waste yarn. Break the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail for the knitted shoulder seam.

РУКАВА

Using 5.5 mm double-pointed needles or 5.5 mm circular needles, cast on 49 stitches. Join the stitches in the round by knitting the last stitch of the cast-on row together with the first stitch of the cast-on row.
As a result, you will have a closed round of 48 stitches. Attach a marker at the beginning of the round (BOR).

Knit further for 3 rounds or 1.5 cm in the rib pattern.

In the last (fourth) round you need to increase by 24 stitches.
To do this, knit from each knit stitch one more knit stitch: knit the stitch, slip the left leg of the stitch located one row below the knit stitch onto the left needle and knit a new stitch from it. Repeat to the end of the round.
There should be 72 stitches on the needles.

Reset the row counter, switch to 8 mm needles and, counting the 1st round, continue knitting in rounds in the lace pattern, starting from the 5th row on 72 stitches — a total of 3 pattern repeats in width, starting from the 1st to the 24th stitch in each repeat.

Knit straight until row 62 (68) inclusive — effectively until row 22 (28) of the 2nd repeat of the pattern according to the chart.

Finish, leave the stitches open.
In the same way, knit the second sleeve as described for the first sleeve.

JOINING OF PARTS

SHOULDER SEAMS:
The 26 (35) stitches held on holders for the right front shoulder and left front shoulder are joined to the 26 (35) stitches of the back shoulders and left back shoulder using a stockinette seam with a needle.
On the left side the same (video link
How this is done! I use the Encyclopedia of Knitting’s detailed instruction because the technique is clearest here.)

If this process seems too tedious or you don’t like it, you can close the stitches in the usual way with a crochet hook or needles and sew the pieces together by the classic method from the wrong side.
But in my opinion, the stockinette seam looks very organic on a sweater and is beautiful.

So,
sew, repeating these steps to the end of the round. At the end, hide the thread from the wrong side.
Essentially the needle should enter the same stitch twice. Once from top to bottom or vice versa and the second time from bottom to top or vice versa. This depends on whether you ultimately need an imitation of a wrong-side row or a right-side stitch.

SLEEVE SEAMS:

Sleeve seam: begin sewing the armhole of the sweater and the sleeve from the bottom of the armhole of the Back or Front in a circle, finishing at the start of the armhole of the Front or Back.

Mark the sleeve center immediately with the Center of the shoulder seam to ensure even distribution of sleeve stitches and the two loops between the armhole edges of the jumper.

1. First pick up one loop between the edges, insert the needle into the first stitch on the sleeve from bottom to top and immediately into the second stitch from top to bottom.

2. Pick up the second loop between the same edges, insert the needle into the second stitch on the sleeve from bottom to top and immediately into the third from top to bottom.

3. Every five loops, knit two loops together, i.e., first together one, then the second, and then both together right after them.

Alternate stages 1 and 2 until the end of the round.

Note: the distribution of stitches should be even.

NECKLINE EDGING

Starting from the shoulder seam, where there was a long yarn left, begin picking up stitches for the neckline edging.

Note that at the Center Front the pickup should be made as 2 stitches, from the loops located one row below.
In the first row these should be knitted.
This is necessary for further decreasing stitches at the center.
Therefore the total number of stitches must be odd.

So, cast on 109 (123) stitches on 5.5 mm needles, following the diagram below.
Then knit in a 1x1 rib, starting from a knit stitch.

0th row (setup): 1 knit, 1 purl — repeat from * to * 35 (40) times, 2 stitches for the Center Front, 1 purl, 1 knit — repeat from * to * 18 (20) times, 1 purl.

Row 1: 1 knit, 1 purl — repeat from * to * 34 (39) times, 1 knit, k2tog to the left, k2tog to the right, 1 knit, 1 purl — repeat from * to * 18 (20) times.

Row 2: as per the pattern.

Continue knitting, decreasing as in the 1st row on the 3rd and 5th rounds as well.

Row 6: as per the pattern.
There should remain 103 (117) stitches on the needles.