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Manishka knitted with needles

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Manishka knitted with needleshttp://klubok.work/1/35/9274/Klubok

Sizes

Kids:
• 3–5 years (1 size)
• 6–9 years (2 size)
• 10–13 years (3 size)

Adults:
• XS–M (4 size)
• L–XXL (5 size)

 


Materials

• Circular needles 40 cm (No. 4.0)
• Circular or double-point needles (No. 3.0)
• Stitch markers
• Hook or blunt-tipped needle
• Elastic cord and stopper (can be bought in sewing stores or in the sections "zippers/laces", and you can also order a set through the marketplace)


Yarn options

• 2 / 2 / 3 / 3 / 4 skeins of yarn Cool Merino Lana Grossa 150 m / 50 g
• 2 / 2 / 3 / 3 / 4 skeins of yarn Alta Moda Alpaca Lana Grossa 140 m / 50 g
• 2 / 3 / 3 / 4 / 4 skeins Cotton Merino Katia 110 m / 50 g
• 2 / 3 / 3 / 4 / 4 skeins Cotton Merino Glam Katia 120 m / 50 g
• Any other yarn that matches the specified gauge.


Note

Gauge:
18 stitches × 26–27 rows = 10 × 10 cm in a single strand after washing and blocking in stockinette using needles size 4.0.

Keep in mind that knitting gauge varies for everyone!
If this needle size doesn’t yield the specified gauge — try a smaller or larger needle size so your gauge matches the specified.

Finished garment measurements

Neck opening width: 20.5 / 22 / 23.5 / 25 / 26.5 cm
Height of the neck opening to the false seam: 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 cm

 


Instructions

Collar with a fixed fold-over.

Using a crochet hook, cast on onto needles size 4.0
73 / 78 / 83 / 88 / 93 stitches (corresponding to sizes 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5),
using a waste yarn, possibly in a contrasting color.

Join the knitting in the round by simply bringing the needles together.
Take the main color thread, place a marker at the beginning of the round
and start knitting in the round.

Knit 34 / 40 / 46 / 52 / 58 rounds in stockinette, i.e. all stitches knitted.

Unravel the waste yarn used to cast on and transfer the stitches to additional needles.

Fold the resulting piece in half with the right side facing you, join the stitches of the inner part with the stitches of the outer part as follows (see “False seam”).


False seam

(through it we will thread the cord)

1 row: 1 knit stitch, yarn over — repeat from * to * to end of row.
2 row: slip 1 stitch, without knitting, yarn at the back; 1 stitch (yarn over) knit through the back loop — repeat from * to * to end of row.

3 row: 1 knit stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise without knitting, yarn in front — repeat to end of row.

4 row: slip 1 knitwise without knitting, yarn at the back; 1 stitch purl, repeat to end of row.

5 row: knit, repeating row 3.

6 row: knit all stitches to create a right-leaning decrease across the row (k2tog with a yarn over and the next stitch).

Yoke

In knitting, the yoke is the difference in height between the back and the front.

During knitting, increases will be required.

Increase by knitting into the stitch of the previous row with a right-leaning slope
(hereafter abbreviated as PP).

Increase by knitting into the stitch of the previous row with a left-leaning slope
(hereafter abbreviated as PL).

The start of the row is located at the center of the front.

The yoke is worked with short turning rows — i.e., not knitting to the end of the row, but only knitting the number of stitches indicated in the description.

We distribute into parts (do not knit, just place markers):

• 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 stitches — left front part
• 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 stitches — left side part
• 29 / 30 / 31 / 32 / 33 stitches — back
• 9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 stitches — right side part
• 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 stitches — right front part


Row 1: 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 knit stitches, PP,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 knit stitches, PL,
29 / 30 / 31 / 32 / 33 knit stitches, PP,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 knit stitches, PL,
2 knit stitches, turn the knitting.

2 row: yarn over, 55 / 58 / 61 / 64 / 67 purl stitches, turn the knitting.

3 row: yarn over, 3 knit stitches, PP,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 knit stitches, PL,
31 / 32 / 33 / 34 / 35 knit stitches, PP,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 knit stitches, PL,
3 knit stitches,
2 stitches together knitwise with a right-leaning decrease (yarn over and the next stitch of the row),
2 knit stitches, turn the knitting.

Row 4: slip the yarn over, 62 / 65 / 68 / 71 / 74 purl stitches,
2 stitches together purlwise (slip the wrap, turn the next stitch so that the left wall faces us,
purl two stitches through the back loop),
2 purl stitches, turn the knitting.

Row 5: slip the yarn over, 7 knit stitches, ПП,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 knit stitches, ПЛ,
33 / 34 / 35 / 36 / 37 knit stitches, ПП,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 knit stitches, ПЛ,
7 knit stitches,
2 stitches together knitwise with a right-leaning decrease,
2 knit stitches, turn the knitting.

Row 6: slip the yarn over, 72 / 75 / 78 / 81 / 84 purl stitches,
2 stitches together purlwise, 2 purl stitches, turn the knitting.

Row 7: slip the yarn over, 11 knit stitches, ПП,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 knit stitches, ПЛ,
35 / 36 / 37 / 38 / 39 knit stitches, ПП,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 knit stitches, ПЛ,
11 knit stitches,
2 stitches together knitwise with a right-leaning decrease,
2 knit stitches, turn the knitting.

Row 8: slip the yarn over, 82 / 85 / 88 / 91 / 94 purl stitches,
2 stitches together purlwise, 2 purl stitches, turn the knitting.

Row 9: slip the yarn over, 15 knit stitches, ПП,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 knit stitches, ПЛ,
37 / 38 / 39 / 40 / 41 knit stitches, ПП,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 knit stitches, ПЛ,
15 knit stitches,
2 stitches together knitwise with a right-leaning decrease,
2 knit stitches, turn the knitting.

Row 10: slip the yarn over, 92 / 95 / 98 / 101 / 104 purl stitches,
2 stitches together purlwise, 2 purl stitches, turn the knitting.

Row 11: slip the yarn over, 19 knit stitches, ПП,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 knit stitches, ПЛ,
39 / 40 / 41 / 42 / 43 knit stitches, ПП,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 knit stitches, ПЛ,
19 knit stitches,
2 stitches together knitwise with a right-leaning decrease,
2 knit stitches, turn the knitting.

Row 12: slip the yarn over, 102 / 105 / 108 / 111 / 114 purl stitches,
2 stitches together purlwise, 2 purl stitches, turn the knitting.

Row 13: slip the yarn over, 23 knit stitches, ПП,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 knit stitches, ПЛ,
41 / 42 / 43 / 44 / 45 knit stitches, ПП,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 knit stitches, ПЛ,
23 knit stitches,
2 stitches together knitwise with a right-leaning decrease,
2 knit stitches, turn the knitting.

Row 14: slip the yarn over, 112 / 115 / 118 / 121 / 124 purl stitches,
2 stitches together purlwise, 2 purl stitches, turn the knitting.


Division into Front and Back

Now we will knit in the round, without turning.

15 row:
1 knit stitch, yarn over and the next stitch knit together
(this closes the «holes» from the yarn overs).

Thus, we will even out the fabric in the round.

From this moment the start of the row is centered on the front.

Front and Back

Increases for widening the shoulders and shaping the neckline are made every two rows.
Increase by one stitch on each side of the side edges,
using increases from the stitch of the previous row with a left-leaning and a right-leaning inclination.

Markers are hung on the stitches where the side edges are located (1 stitch each).

Distribution of stitches after the yoke:
13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 stitches — left front,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 stitches — left side piece,
29 / 30 / 31 / 32 / 33 stitches — back,
9 / 10 / 11 / 12 / 13 stitches — right side piece,
13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 stitches — right front piece.

Place the markers as follows:
front — 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 stitches,
M, 1 stitch at the side seam, M,
back — 29 / 30 / 31 / 32 / 33 stitches,
M, 1 stitch at the side seam, M,
front — 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 / 17 stitches.


Row 1:
knit in knit stitches up to the stitch before the marker, ПП, 1 knit stitch,
slip the marker, 1 knit stitch (side seam),
slip the marker, ПЛ, then knit to the next side seam,
repeat increases on both sides of the second line.

Row 2: all stitches knit.

Row 3: repeat increases as in Row 1.

Row 4: all stitches knit.

Repeat increases every other row until the height from the start of the increases reaches:
• for sizes 1 / 2 / 3 — 10 cm
• for sizes 4 / 5 — 11 cm


After completing the required number of increases, the stitches divide into front and back.

Front:
finish the row at the center of the front,
bind off the back stitches, leaving them on the yarn,
and continue knitting only the front part.

Back:
is knitted similarly to the front part after the front portion.


Length of the garment

Knit in stockinette stitch without increases straight to the desired length:

• for children's sizes (1 / 2 / 3) — 14 / 16 / 18 cm
• for adult sizes (4 / 5) — 20 / 22 cm

Then perform the finishing of the bottom edge.

Lower edge

Switch to size 3.0 needles.
Knit in 1 × 1 rib (1 knit stitch × 1 purl stitch)
for a height of 3–4 cm (optional).

Bind off stitches loosely,
in a method that is convenient for you and provides sufficient elasticity to the edge.

Similarly, work the lower edge of the back.


Collar

Switch to size 3.0 needles.
Pick up stitches along the neckline.

The density of picking up stitches —
about 1 stitch for every 2 rows (to prevent the edge from pulling in).

Row start — at the center of the back.

Knit in 1 × 1 rib 1 × 1
for a height of 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 cm (depending on size).

If desired, you can make a fold-over —
in this case knit twice as tall,
as indicated in the description.

Bind off the stitches in an elastic manner.


Drawstring and fastening

Crochet a chain of chain stitches or a drawstring i-cord,
about 60 – 80 cm long.

Thread the drawstring through the holes in the faux buttonhole.
Attach a fastener or tie knots at the ends.


Final steps

  1. Perform wet blocking (WBT):
    soak the garment in cool water for 15–20 minutes
    with a small amount of wool wash.

  2. Gently press out the water, without wringing,
    and dry on a flat surface, shaping it.

  3. After drying, carefully steam through a damp cloth.

 





 

 

 





 

 

 







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