KNITTING - INCREASE AND DECREASE OF STITCHES ON DIAGONAL LINES

KNITTING - INCREASING AND DECREASING STITCHES ALONG DIAGONAL LINES expand and narrow the details — for example, along the neckline, armhole of a set-in sleeve, shoulder, raglan, etc. To calculate the increase or decrease of stitches along the contour, a right triangle is constructed within the pattern of the detail, where the calculation line lies opposite the right angle.   Closing stitches at the shoulder   To construct the calculation triangle, a horizontal line is drawn through the lowest point of the shoulder slope, and a perpendicular is dropped from the top point of the shoulder slope onto it. Knowing the knitting density, the stitches along the base of the triangle that need to be gradually closed are counted. Then, according to the height of the triangle, the number of rows is calculated during which all stitches are closed. Since stitches from one shoulder are closed only at the beginning of the right-side rows, and those from the other shoulder only at the beginning of the wrong-side rows, one group of stitches can be closed every other row. From the two knit rows, one edge braid is formed.

The number of braids indicates how many times the stitches are closed, i.e., how many groups the total number of shoulder stitches should be divided into. To find out how many stitches to close in one go, the total number of stitches on the shoulder (the base of the triangle) is divided by the number of braids along the height of the calculation triangle (fig. 9). For example, if the base of the triangle has 39 stitches and the height has 16 rows (8 braids). 39 stitches : 8 braids = 4 stitches (7 stitches remainder). The remainder of the stitches is distributed one stitch in each group. Therefore, on the shoulder, 7 times 5 stitches and 1 time 4 stitches should be closed. To achieve a smooth line without steps when knitting the shoulder, partial knitting with short rows can be used, i.e., not closing but leaving unknit stitches from one shoulder in the right-side rows and from the other in the wrong-side rows. All stitches are closed after knitting a total row. For a smooth line without steps, another method can be used: after closing the required number of stitches at the beginning of a wrong-side row (left shoulder on the back), in the end of the next row (right-side), the last two stitches are knitted together frontwise through the front loops. Turning the work to the wrong side, the number of stitches for the next closure (considering that one stitch has already been closed at the end of the right-side row) is closed. Thus, one stitch is closed at the end of the row, and the rest of the stitches in the group are closed at the beginning of the next row.   Horizontal bust dart     The calculation triangle is constructed on the pattern when building the foundation. Knowing the knitting density, stitches along the base of the triangle and braids along the height are counted (fig. 10). The number of stitches is divided by the number of braids. Since the dart is performed using partial knitting, i.e., the stitches are left unknit, the result of the division is the number of stitches left unknit in one go. For example, if the base of the triangle has 36 stitches and the height has 12 rows (6 braids). 36 stitches : 6 braids = 6 stitches. Therefore, to make the dart, 6 stitches are left unknit at the side seam at the end of the wrong-side row (left dart) and at the end of the right-side row (right dart). After completing the dart, continue working on all stitches.   Lower line of the sleeve in the "bat" product     To construct the calculation triangle, the side seam line is extended upward, and a perpendicular is drawn from the width of the sleeve at the wrist line (fig. 11). Knowing the knitting density, the number of stitches along the base of the triangle for gradual increase is calculated. The height of the triangle is measured, and the necessary number of rows in which all stitches are increased is calculated. To find out how many stitches to increase in one go, the total number of stitches is divided by the number of braids. For example, if the base of the triangle has 150 stitches and the height has 60 rows (30 braids). 150 : 30 = 5. It is necessary to increase 5 stitches at the end of the right-side row when knitting one sleeve and at the end of the wrong-side row when knitting the other.   Line of the angular yoke     The slope of the yoke line can be less or greater depending on the design. On the yoke line AB (fig. 12), one pattern is replaced by another. To avoid decreasing or increasing the total number of stitches further, both patterns should have the same knitting density. For example, it is convenient to change from stockinette to purl. In this case, the calculation for the pattern replacement is made using the triangle. A horizontal line is drawn from point B to the side seam, and a perpendicular is dropped from point A. Knowing the knitting density, the number of stitches along the base of the triangle is counted, then along its height, the number of rows during which one pattern is replaced by another. Since it's easier to replace the pattern only on the right side, it's important to know the number of right-side rows or side braids along the height of the triangle. To determine the order of replacing the stitches of the main pattern with the yoke pattern, the number of stitches along the base of the triangle is divided by the number of side braids.   For example, if the base of the triangle has 57 stitches and the height has 20 braids. 57 stitches : 20 braids = 2 stitches (17 stitches remainder). Therefore, in the right-side rows, considering the remainder, the pattern is changed 17 times on three stitches and 3 times (preferably the last ones) on two stitches. In the wrong-side rows, all stitches are knit according to the pattern. The examples of the slanted lines show that for lines with a greater slope, calculation triangles are constructed where the height is significantly less than the base, and it is important to know the number of edge braids along it for calculation. For such triangles, stitches that need to be closed or increased, replaced with another pattern, or left unknit during partial knitting are usually calculated. For lines with a smaller slope, calculation triangles are constructed where the height is equal to or greater than the base. For calculating such triangles, it is sufficient to know the number of centimeters or rows along the height. They calculate the distance through which stitches are increased or decreased by one stitch. Examples of such lines can be raglan lines and pointed necklines.   Increasing stitches along the side seam     If the product expands from the end of the ribbing at the bottom to the armhole along the side seam, then on the pattern, the side seam line represents a vertical line with a slight slope. To construct a calculation triangle for it, a perpendicular is drawn from the point where the expansion begins to the bust line (fig. 13). Knowing the knitting density, the number of stitches along the base of the triangle for gradual increase is calculated. The height of the triangle is measured in centimeters, and to find out the intervals between increases, the distance in centimeters is divided by the number of stitches. For example, if the base of the triangle has 5 stitches and the height is 30 cm. 30 cm : 5 stitches = 6 cm. Therefore, it is necessary to increase one stitch every 6 cm along the side seam. It is better to mark the places of stitch increases on the pattern, the first one at the beginning of the expansion immediately after the ribbing, and the next four every 6 cm.   Increasing stitches along the side lines of the sleeve   To construct a calculation triangle, a perpendicular is drawn from the point where the expansion begins on the cuff line to the armhole line (fig. 14, a). Knowing the knitting density, the number of stitches that need to be increased is calculated along the base of the triangle. The height of the triangle is measured in centimeters, during which stitches will need to be increased. To find out the intervals between increases, the distance in centimeters is divided by the number of stitches. If the result is less than 5 cm, it is more convenient to knit, counting the rows between increases. For this, the number of rows along the height of the triangle is counted and divided by the number of stitches. For example, if the base of the triangle has 24 stitches and the height has 34 rows. When dividing, the result will be less than 5 cm, so the number of rows along the height is counted. With a knitting density of 4 rows per 1 cm, this will result in 136 rows (4 x 34 = 136). The number of rows is divided by the stitches: 136 : 24 = 5 (16 rows remainder). The remainder of the rows is distributed one in the intervals between increases. Therefore, along the side lines of the sleeve, one stitch needs to be increased 16 times in every 6th row and 8 times in every 5th row.   When knitting a sleeve with a sharp expansion from the cuff, calculation without constructing a triangle on the pattern can be applied. For this, in the last wrong-side row of the cuff, every 3rd or 4th stitch should be increased using a closed (twisted) yarn over or twisted wrap between the stitches.   After counting the number of stitches on the needle, it is divided in half, as is done when calculating half a sleeve (fig. 14, b). Knowing the knitting density, the number of stitches along the armhole line is determined from the pattern. Next, the difference is calculated, and the number of stitches for increasing is obtained. The distance between the cuff line and the armhole line, in centimeters or rows, is divided by the number of these stitches. The result is the intervals between increases.   For example, after increasing stitches in the last wrong-side row of the cuff, there should be 80 stitches on the needles. 80 : 2 = 40 stitches. The armhole line should have 108 stitches. 108 : 2 = 54 stitches. The difference between the narrow and wide parts of the sleeve is 14 stitches (54 - 40 = 14). The distance between the cuff line and the armhole line is 34 cm. When divided (34 : 14), the result will be less than five, so along this distance, the number of rows is counted. With a knitting density of 4 rows per 1 cm, it will result in 136 rows. Next, the number of rows is divided by the increases: 136 rows : 14 = 9 rows (10 rows remainder). The remainder of the rows is distributed one in the intervals between increases. Therefore, on both sides of the sleeve, one stitch is increased 10 times in every 10th row and 4 times in every 9th.