Sweater with a high collar. Pattern diagram

Sizes: 42 (44) 46 (48)

Materials: Yarn: Lana Gatto Silk Mohair (210 m in 25 g)

Yarn consumption for sizes 42-44 (garment length 58 cm): 7 skeins.

Yarn consumption for sizes 46-48 (garment length 58 cm): 8-9 skeins. Attention! Yarn consumption depends on the length of the garment and the yardage of the yarn. Alternatives: Ecafil Sielo (212 m, 25 g), Drops Kid Silk (210 m, 25 g), BBB Soft Dream (200 m, 25 g), cone mohair yarn on silk 800 m, 100 g in 2 strands. It is also possible to use other yarns provided they match the sample.

Circular needles 80/100/120 cm – 4 and 5 mm.

Circular needles 40 cm – 5 mm for ease of knitting the sleeves.

Stitch markers (9 pcs), 2 auxiliary threads 40 cm long, and a needle.

Knitting density: 10 cm x 10 cm = 16 stitches x 26 rows of stockinette stitch on 5 mm needles. Attention! The knitting density must match the specified, so before starting work, it is essential to knit and wash a sample. Then count how many stitches are in 10 cm. If there are more than 16 stitches, switch to thicker needles; if fewer than 16 stitches, switch to thinner ones.

Conditional abbreviations:

M - marker,

Yarn over – yarn over.

Patterns:

- ribbing 1x1 in the round: 1st row: *1 knit, 1 purl*, repeat from * to *, repeat from the 1st row;

- stockinette stitch in back and forth rows: 1st row – all stitches knit, 2nd row – all stitches purl, repeat from the 1st row;

- stockinette stitch in the round: all stitches in all rows knit;

- “right cable” (5 stitches): 1,2,3,4, 5 rows – all stitches knit, 6th row: slip the 1st stitch onto a cable needle in front, knit 4 stitches, transfer the 1st stitch back to the left needle and knit it. Repeat from the 1st row;

- “left cable” (5 stitches): 1,2,3,4,5 rows – all stitches knit, 6th row: slip 4 stitches onto a cable needle in back, knit 1 stitch, transfer 4 stitches back to the left needle and knit them. Repeat from the 1st row; - Japanese pattern: empty cell – knit stitches, in width knit 1 pattern repeat. The pattern repeat is 36 stitches in width, 24 rows in height.

U  yarn over

V2  2 stitches together knit

purl

How to make a universal yarn over before and after raglan lines (also do this for underarm increases):

In the knit row, knit the stitches through the back loop, in the purl row, purl through the front loop.

The stitches of the raglan line consist of two stitches and will be worked in stockinette stitch.

12 stitches of the sleeves will be divided into 6 parts: 2p.+2p.+2p.+2p.+2p.+2 p.

Knit in stockinette stitch in back and forth rows, starting from the marker for the beginning of the knitting:

1st row – M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 11 knit, Y, M, 2 knit (raglan line), M, Y, 2 knit (1 part of the sleeve), turn the work, slip 1 stitch, 2 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 12 purl, M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 11 purl, Y, M, 2 purl, M, Y, 2 purl (1 part of the sleeve), turn the work, slip 1 stitch, 2 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 12 knit.

2nd row - M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 12 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 5 knit, turn the work, slip 1 stitch, 5 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 13 purl, M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 12 purl, Y, M, 2 purl, M, Y, 5 purl, turn the work, slip 1 stitch, 5 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 13 knit.

3rd row - M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 13 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 8 knit, turn the work, slip 1 stitch, 8 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 14 purl, M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 13 purl, Y, M, 2 purl, M, Y, 8 purl, turn the work, slip 1 stitch, 8 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 14 knit.

4th row - M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 14 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 11 knit, turn the work, slip 1 stitch, 11 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 15 purl, M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 14 purl, Y, M, 2 purl, M, Y, 11 purl, turn the work, slip 1 stitch, 11 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 15 knit.

5th row - M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 15 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 14 knit, turn the work, slip 1 stitch, 14 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 16 purl, M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 15 purl, Y, M, 2 purl, M, Y, 14 purl, turn the work, slip 1 stitch, 14 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 16 knit.

6th row - M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 16 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 17 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 2 knit (stitches of the front), turn the work, slip 1 stitch, 2 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 19 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 17 purl, M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 16 purl, Y, M, 2 purl, M, Y, 17 purl, Y, M, 2 purl, M, Y, 2 purl (stitches of the front), turn the work, slip 1 stitch, 2 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 19 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 17 knit.

7th row - M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 17 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 19 knit Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 5 knit (stitches of the front), turn the work, slip 1 stitch, 5 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 21 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 18 purl, M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 17 purl, Y, M, 2 purl, M, Y, 19 purl, Y, M, 2 purl, M, Y, 5 purl. (stitches of the front), turn the work, slip 1 stitch, 5 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 21 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 18 knit.

At this stage, there should be 21 stitches on the sleeves, 36 stitches on the back, and 34 stitches on the front.

The short row is finished.

1st round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 18 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 21 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 34 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 21 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 18 knit

2nd round:

“Japanese pattern” - width 36 stitches (1 repeat).

Before and after the Japanese pattern, 2 purl stitches will be knitted.

Before and after the two purl stitches, the patterns “Right Cable” and “Left Cable” will be introduced (these patterns will be added during the knitting).

For convenience, divide the patterns with markers. M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 19 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 23 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (1 row), M, 2 knit, M, 23 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 19 knit.

 3rd round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 19 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 23 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (2 row), Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 23 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 19 knit.

4th round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 20 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 25 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 1 knit, M, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (3 row), M, 1 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 25 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 20 knit

5th round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 20 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 25 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 1 purl, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (4 row), 1 purl, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 25 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 20 knit.

6th round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 21 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 27 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 2 purl, M, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (5 row), M, 2 purl, M, 2 knit, M, 27 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 21 knit.

7th round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 21 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 27 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 2 purl, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (6 row), 2 purl, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 27 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 21 knit.

8th round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 22 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 29 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 1 knit, 2 purl, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (7 row), 2 purl, 1 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 29 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 22 knit.

9th round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 22 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 29 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 1 knit, 2 purl, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (8 row), 2 purl, 1 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 29 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 22 knit.

10th round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 23 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 31 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 2 knit, 2 purl, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (9 row), 2 purl, 2 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 31 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 23 knit. 11th round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 23 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 31 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 2 knit, 2 purl, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (10 row), 2 purl, 2 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 31 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 23 knit.

12th round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 24 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 33 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 3 knit, 2 purl, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern(11 row), 2 purl, 3 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 33 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 24 knit.

13th round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 24 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 33 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 3 knit, 2 purl, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (12 row), 2 purl, 3 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 33 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 24 knit.

14th round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 25 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 35 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 4 knit, 2 purl, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (13 row), 2 purl, 4 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 35 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 25 knit.

15th round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 25 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 35 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 4 knit, 2 purl, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (14 row), 2 purl, 4 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 35 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 25 knit.

16th round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 26 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 37 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 5 knit, 2 purl, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (15 row), 2 purl, 5 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 37 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 26 knit.

17th round: M (marker for the beginning of the knitting), 26 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 37 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, M, 6th row of the “Right Cable” pattern (5 stitches), 2 purl, 36 stitches of the Japanese pattern (16 row), 2 purl, 6th row of the “Left Cable” pattern (5 stitches), M, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 37 knit, Y, M, 2 knit, M, Y, 26 knit.

Knit all even rounds according to the patterns, knitting the yarn overs that were made before and after the raglan line stitches knit through the back loop.

Knit all odd rounds according to the patterns, making yarn overs BEFORE and AFTER the marker of the raglan lines.

Continue to knit the Japanese pattern strictly according to the chart

Knit in this way until there are 53 (55) 57 (59) stitches on the sleeves, corresponding to sizes 42 (44) 46 (48).

Finish on an even round.

Next, divide the knitting into two sleeves, the back, and the front.

To do this, starting from the marker after the beginning of the knitting, you need to knit the stitches of the back to the marker of the raglan line, knit the stitches of the raglan line and transfer the stitches of the sleeves to an auxiliary thread. Next, make 3 yarn overs (underarm, see fig. 1), knit 2 stitches of the raglan line and the stitches of the front part of the garment, including the stitches of the next raglan line. Also transfer the stitches of the second sleeve to an auxiliary thread, make 3 yarn overs (underarm), knit the stitches of the raglan line, and knit the stitches of the back to the beginning marker.

Knit in the round according to the patterns until the desired length. For a total length of 58 cm, you need to knit the Japanese pattern 5 times in height.

After the desired length has been reached, switch to 4 mm needles and knit in the pattern “Ribbing 1x1” for 10 rows. Bind off stitches in a way that is comfortable for you.

Attention! If you are not sure about the yarn consumption for the sweater, you should knit the sleeves first and then finish the “body” afterwards.

Knitting the sleeves.

Transfer 53 (55) 57 (59) stitches of the sleeve from the auxiliary thread to circular needles, while picking up 7 stitches (2 stitches + 3 yarn overs (underarm) + 2 stitches).

That is, from the beginning marker, pick up 3 stitches + 53 (55) 57 (59) stitches + 4 stitches.

In total, there should be 60 (62) 64 (66) stitches on the sleeves.

It is necessary to mark the beginning of the knitting (at the underarm), dividing the knitting into 2 equal parts.

For size 42:

Knit in the round according to the pattern, making decreases in rows 2, 3, 4, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 85, 90. Knit until the 100th row (or knit the desired length of the sleeve). There should be 34 stitches left on the sleeves. Next, switch to 4 mm needles and knit in the pattern “Ribbing 1x1” for 14 rows.

For size 44:

Knit in the round according to the pattern, making decreases in rows 2, 3, 4, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90. Knit until the 100th row (or knit the desired length of the sleeve). There should be 38 stitches left on the sleeves. Next, switch to 4 mm needles and knit in the pattern “Ribbing 1x1” for 14 rows.

For size 46:

Knit in the round according to the pattern, making decreases in rows 2, 3, 4, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70. Knit until the 100th row (or knit the desired length of the sleeve). There should be 44 stitches left on the sleeves. Next, switch to 4 mm needles and knit in the pattern “Ribbing 1x1” for 14 rows, making 4 decreases in the 1st row (2 stitches together purl). In total, there should be 40 stitches on the sleeves.

For size 48:

Knit in the round according to the pattern, making decreases in rows 2, 3, 4, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90. Knit until the 100th row (or knit the desired length of the sleeve). There should be 44 stitches left on the sleeves. Next, switch to 4 mm needles and knit in the pattern “Ribbing 1x1” for 14 rows, making 4 decreases in the 1st row (2 stitches together purl). In total, there should be 40 stitches on the sleeves.

Decreases in knitting the sleeves:

At the beginning of the row (after the marker = beginning of the knitting), you should knit two stitches together: the 2nd and 3rd stitches from the beginning of the knitting and the 2nd and 3rd stitches from the end at the end of the row (before the marker). The second sleeve is knitted in the same way.

The sweater is ready! It is necessary to weave in all the ends and wash it in warm water with detergent. Dry on a flat surface.