Knitted sweater

 

 

 

 

Sizes: S (M, L, XL) The data for sizes M, L, XL are given in parentheses respectively. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

 

MATERIALS:

• Yarn a lengths 50g/135m, composition may be similar or by your choice - 55% cotton, 35% modal, 10% viscose, 8 (9, 12) skeins. 

• 15 markers and 4 stitch holders or scrap yarn.

• Circular needles 4 and 4.5mm, length 80cm, or double-point needles 4 and 4.5mm, or needles of another thickness allowing you to achieve the required gauge.

• Scissors.

• Tapestry needle.

Gauge of the swatch with the pattern «Double Rib» after washing and blocking:

18 stitches and 26 rows = 10x10 cm, needles 4.5.

Your knitting gauge may differ greatly from mine. I strongly recommend checking the gauge on a swatch that you must wash and dry. If necessary, select the needles of the right size for you. It is enough to knit the swatch using only the pattern «Double Rib», as with the pattern «Lace» they are the same.

Pattern «Double Rib» (Repeat consists of 2 stitches and 4 rows):

In circular knitting:

1st row (RS) r., 2nd row (WS): * 1 knit stitch, 1 purl* repeat from * to *.

3rd row (WS), 4th row (WS): *1 purl, 1 knit* repeat from *to *.

For turning-knitting of the rise:

1st knit row: *1 knit, 1 purl* repeat from * to *.

2nd purl row: *1 purl, 1 knit* repeat from * to *.

3rd knit row: *1 purl, 1 knit* repeat from * to *.

4th purl row: *1 knit, 1 purl* repeat from * to *.

Pattern «Ribbing» in the round (even number of stitches):

All rounds: *1 twisted knit stitch, 1 purl; repeat from * to end of round.

 

(Repeat consists of 14 stitches and 28 rows; the rows are listed as only knit rows for circular knitting).

NOTE: The symbol on the pattern chart «Pinecone» indicates that you need to knit 5 stitches from the length of yarn between the 4th and 5th purl stitches:

To do this, slip the wrap onto the right needle.

1st row: knit the 1st stitch through the front wall, the 2nd knit stitch through the back wall, the 3rd knit stitch through the front wall, the 4th knit stitch through the back wall, the 5th knit stitch through the front wall. And here is a TIP: knit this last knit stitch by catching it through the wrap between the stitch where the Pinecone is formed and the next one.

Next, slip this stitch off the left needle and knit another 4 rows in turning rounds, that is: Turn the work and continue knitting.

2nd purl row: 5 purl stitches.

3rd knit row: 5 knit stitches.

4th purl row: 5 purl stitches.

5th knit row: 5 knit stitches. The last stitch of this row knit together with the next purl stitch to avoid an extra stitch (decrease it this way).

Then, with the left needle, pull this stitch successively through the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th stitches and transfer it from the left needle to the first.

The Pinecone is ready!

 

The front with the back and sleeves of the sweater are knitted from top to bottom in a raglan, in circular rounds, and then separated from the sleeves and body of the sweater (front and back). Next, the sleeves and body are knitted in circular rounds from the top down to the finished garment, to the required length. During knitting, be sure to try on the sweater to determine the length of the pieces.

NECKLINE, RISE, YOKE.

On circular needles of 4 mm, cast on 81 (85, 91, 95) stitches. Join the stitches in the round, knitting the last stitch of the cast-on row together with the first one. The result is a closed circle of 80 (84, 90, 94) stitches. Attach a marker at the beginning of the round.

Knit 24 rounds, or 4 cm, in the pattern "Ribbing”.

Then join the first edge of the ribbing with the last edge, knitting stitch to stitch. Place a marker at the beginning of the round.

 

Transfer the stitches to 4.5 mm needles, and counting the first circular round for ease of pattern work, distribute the stitches as follows:

Marker for the beginning of the round, 2 knit stitches of the raglan lines, marker, 12 (12,14,14) stitches of the right sleeve, marker, 2 knit stitches of the raglan lines, marker, 26 (28,30,32) stitches of the Front, marker, 2 knit stitches of the raglan lines, marker, 12 (12,14,14) stitches of the left sleeve, marker, 2 knit stitches of the raglan lines, marker, 22 (24,24,26) stitches of the Back.

Next, knit the rise according to the Charts corresponding to each size.

The sweater rise is knitted using turning rounds. Therefore, knit the patterns for turning-knitting by knitting the purl rows in the Circular-knitting charts, replacing the knit stitches with purls and the purls with knits. Note that this applies only to forming the rise up to the new point where the stitches join in a round for continuing with the yoke.

The join point in the circle is marked on the charts.

According to them, begin knitting at the join point of the stitches in a circle, knit 4 stitches of the right sleeve, wrap the next stitch with yarn, turn the knitting and move in the opposite direction to a specified point on the chart. The stitches of the right sleeve should be knitted according to the sleeve pattern chart for size S and M, the stitches of the left sleeve read according to the same chart but in mirror image.

Back and Front are knitted in the pattern «Double Rib».

Explanation for the charts S and M: Increase stitches for the raglan lines at the places marked with red dots on the chart. To the right of.

First increase is made in the 3rd knit row along the two raglan lines of the back. The second increase is made in the 5th knit row, also along the two raglan lines of the back.

The third increase is made in the 7th knit row along all four raglan lines, including the back and the front. And so on according to the pattern.

To do this, on the right of the two knit stitches of the raglan lines, make a yarn over on the right needle away from you, and on the left toward you. In the purl row of the stockinette or in the next row in circular knitting on the yoke, knit this yarn over as a twisted purl, in circular knitting - as a twisted knit. On the right side - behind the front wall, on the left - behind the back wall.

Росток 

Схема ростка

Примечание по схеме: справа и слева в схеме обозначены накиды реглана.

в соответствии с узором рукава, но я советую провязывать их всегда лицевыми петлями, тогда эти накиды будут красиво смотреться вдоль регланных линий.

Данные схемы предназначены для вязания правого рукава. Левый рукав вязать по Схеме в зеркальном отображении.

Примечание по Схемам: символ с 24 по 29 петлю 15-ого ряда первой схемы и с 24 по 29 петлю 19-ого ряда схемы Узора рукава на кокетке обозначает: перекрестить 6 лиц.п. вправо. Для этого снимите 3 петли на вспомогательную спицу за работой, провяжите лицевыми следующие 3 петли, затем 3 петли со вспомогательной спицы.

При вязании левого рукава эти символы будут обозначать перекрестить 6 лиц.п. влево. Для этого снимите 3 петли на вспомогательную спицу перед работой, провяжите лицевыми следующие 3 петли, затем 3 петли со вспомогательной спицы.

Detailed knitting instructions for the rise for sizes S and M:

1-ый лиц.р.: маркер, 2 лиц.п., маркер.

Правый рукав: 3 изн.п., 1 лиц.п., накинуть рабочую нить на следующую петлю и развернуть работу на изнаночную сторону.

2-ой изн.р.: Правый рукав: 1 изн.п., 3 лиц.п., маркер, 2 изн.п., маркер, спинка: 22 (24 для размера M) петли Узором Двойной рис, маркер, 2 изн.п., маркер.

Левый рукав: 3 лиц.п., 1 изн.п., накинуть рабочую нить на следующую петлю и развернуть работу на лицевую сторону.

3-ий лиц.р.: Левый рукав: 1 лиц.п., 3 изн.п., накид реглана, маркер, 2 лиц.п., маркер.

Спинка: 1 накид реглана, 22 (24) петли Узором «Двойной рис» (далее Узором).

1 накид реглана, маркер, 2 лиц.п., маркер, Правый рукав: 1 накид реглана, 3 изн.п., 2 лиц.п., 2 изн.п., 1 лиц.п., накинуть рабочую нить на следующую петлю и развернуть работу на изнаночную сторону.

4-ый изн.р.: Правый рукав: 1 изн.п., 2 лиц.п., 2 изн.п., 4 лиц.п., маркер, 2 изн.п., маркер, Спинка: 24 (26) петли Узором Двойной рис, маркер, 2 изн.п., маркер, Левый рукав: 4 лиц.п., 2 изн.п., 2 лиц.п., 1 изн.п., накинуть рабочую нить на следующую петлю и развернуть работу на лицевую сторону.

5-ый лиц.р.: Левый рукав: 1 лиц.п., 2 изн.п., 2 лиц.п., 4 изн.п., 1 накид реглана, маркер, 2 лиц.п., маркер.

Спинка: 1 накид реглана 24 (26) петли Узором, 1 накид реглана, маркер, 2 лиц.п., маркер.

Правый рукав: 1 накид реглана, 4 изн.п., 2 вместе лиц.п. с наклоном вправо, 1 накид, 1 лиц.п., 2 изн.п., 1 лиц.п., 1 накид, 2 вместе лиц.п. с наклоном влево, 2 изн.п., 1 накид реглана, маркер, 2 лиц.п., маркер.

Перед: 1 накид реглана, 4 п. Узора, накинуть рабочую нить на следующую петлю и развернуть работу на изнаночную сторону.

8-ой изн.р.: Перед: 5 п. Узора, маркер, 2 изн.п., маркер.

Правый рукав: 3 лиц.п., 3 изн.п., 2 лиц.п., 3 изн.п., 5 лиц.п., маркер, 2 изн.п., маркер.

Спинка: 28(30) петель Узора, маркер, 2 изн.п., маркер.

Левый рукав: 5 лиц.п., 3 изн.п., 2 лиц.п., 3 изн.п., 3 лиц.п., маркер, 2 изн.п., маркер.

Перед: 5 п. Узором, накинуть рабочую нить на следующую петлю и развернуть работу на лицевую сторону.

9-ый лиц.р.: Перед: 5 п. Узора, 1 накид реглана, маркер, 2 лиц.п., маркер.

Левый рукав: 1 накид реглана, 2 изн.п., 2 вместе лиц.п. с наклоном вправо, 1 накид, 2 лиц.п., 2 изн.п., 2 лиц.п., 1 накид, 2 вместе лиц.п. с наклоном влево, 4 изн.п., 1 накид реглана, маркер, 2 лиц.п., маркер.

Спинка: 1 накид реглана, 28((30) петель Узором, 1 накид реглана, маркер, 2 лиц.п., маркер.

Правый рукав: 1 накид реглана, 2 лиц.п., 2 изн.п., 2 вместе лиц.п. с наклоном вправо, 1 накид, 3 лиц.п., 2 изн.п., 3 лиц.п., 1 накид, 2 вместе лиц.п. с наклоном влево, 2 изн.п., 1 накид реглана, маркер, 2 лиц.п., маркер.

Front: 1 raglan yarn over, 30 (32) stitches. Work in pattern, picking up the 20th stitch with a yarn over (turn of the previous 10th row) - as a result, on the Front there should be 32 (34) stitches.

Stop before the next yarn over at the raglan line between the Front and the left sleeve - the new joining point of the circular row.

Begin knitting the 12th purl round in the round according to the sleeve knitting chart, not forgetting raglan increases on every 2nd right-side row.

Rostok L

Yoke chart for XL

 

Note on the chart: the increases for raglan on the right and left sides in the chart are shown according to the sleeve pattern, but I recommend always knitting them as knit stitches, so these increases will look nice along the raglan lines.

Daniye skhemy prednaznacheny dlya vyazaniya pravogo rukava. Levy rukav vyzyvat' po Skheme v zerkal'nom otrazhenii.

Note on the Schemes: the symbol from stitch 24 to 29 of row 15 of the first scheme and from stitch 24 to 29 of row 19 of the Sleeve Pattern on the yoke denotes: cross 6 knit stitches to the right. To do this, slip 3 stitches onto an auxiliary needle behind the work, knit the next 3 stitches, then 3 stitches from the auxiliary needle.

When knitting the left sleeve, these symbols will denote crossing 6 knit stitches to the left. To do this, slip 3 stitches onto an auxiliary needle in front of the work, knit the next 3 stitches, then 3 stitches from the auxiliary needle.

Explanation for the charts L and XL: You need to increase stitches for the raglan lines at the points marked on the chart with red dots.

The first increase is made on the 3rd right-side row along the two raglan lines of the back.

The second increase is made on the 5th right-side row also along the two raglan lines of the back.

The third increase is made on the 7th right-side row also along the two raglan lines of the back.

The fourth increase is made on the 9th right-side row along all four raglan lines, including the Back and Front.

And so on according to the chart.

For this, on each side of the 2 knit stitches of the raglan lines, make a yarn over on the right needle. In the purl row of the yoke or the next row in circular knitting, knit this yarn over as a twisted purl stitch; in circular knitting - as a twisted knit stitch.

Detailed proper yoke knitting for sizes L and XL:

1st RS row: marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Right sleeve: 3 purl stitches, 1 knit stitch, bring the working yarn over the next stitch and turn the work to the purl side.

2-nd wrong side: Right sleeve: 1 purl stitch, 3 knit stitches, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker.

Back: 24 (26 for XL size) stitches in the Double Rice Pattern, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker.

Left sleeve: 3 knit stitches, 1 purl stitch, bring the working yarn over the next stitch and turn the work to the knit side; 3rd RS row: Left sleeve: 1 knit stitch, 3 purl stitches, raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Back: 1 raglan yarn over, 24 (26) stitches in the pattern “Double Rice” (hereafter the Pattern), 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Right sleeve: 1 raglan yarn over, 3 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, 1 knit stitch, bring the working yarn over the next stitch and turn the work to the purl side.

4th wrong side: Right sleeve: 1 purl stitch, 2 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker, Back: 26 (28) stitches in the Double Rice Pattern, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker, Left sleeve: 4 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 1 purl, bring the working yarn over the next stitch and turn the work to the knit side.

5th RS row: Left sleeve: 1 knit stitch, 2 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 4 purl stitches, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Back: 1 raglan yarn over 26 (28) stitches in the Pattern, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Right sleeve: 1 raglan yarn over, 4 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, bring the working yarn over the next stitch and turn the work to the purl side; 6th wrong side:

Right sleeve: 2 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, 5 knit stitches, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker.

Back: 28 (30) stitches in the Pattern, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker.

Left sleeve: 5 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, bring the working yarn over the next stitch and turn the work to the knit side; 7th RS row:

Left sleeve: 1 purl stitch, 2 together knits with right-leaning, 1 yarn over, 1 knit stitch, 2 purl stitches, 1 knit stitch, 1 yarn over, 2 together knits with left-leaning, 4 purl stitches, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Back: 1 raglan yarn over, 28 (30) stitches in the Pattern, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Right sleeve: 1 raglan yarn over, 4 purl stitches, 2 together knits with a right-lean, 1 yarn over, 2 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 1 yarn over, 2 together knits with a left-leaning, 3 purl stitches, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Front: 1 knit stitch, bring the working yarn over the next stitch and turn the work to the purl side.

8th purl round: Front: 1 purl stitch, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker.

Right sleeve: 4 knit stitches, 3 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 3 purl stitches, 5 knit stitches, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker.

Back: 30 (32) stitches in the Pattern, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Left sleeve: 5 knit stitches, 3 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 3 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker.

Front: 5 stitches in the pattern, bring the working yarn over the next stitch and turn the work to the knit side.

9th RS row: 1 purl stitch, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Left sleeve: 1 raglan yarn over, 3 purl stitches, 2 together knits with right-leaning, 1 yarn over, 2 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 1 yarn over, 2 together knits with left-leaning, 4 purl stitches, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Back: 1 raglan yarn over, 30 (32) stitches in the Pattern, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Right sleeve: 1 raglan yarn over, 4 purl stitches, 2 together knits with a right-leaning, 1 yarn over, 2 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 1 yarn over, 2 together knits with a left-leaning, 3 purl stitches, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Front: 1 raglan yarn over, 4 stitches in the Pattern, bring the working yarn over the next stitch and turn the work to the purl side.

10th wrong side: Front: 5 stitches in the Pattern, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker.

Right sleeve: 4 knit stitches, 4 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 4 purl stitches, 5 knit stitches, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker.

Back: 32 (34) stitches in the Pattern, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Left sleeve: 5 knit stitches, 4 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 4 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker.

Front: 5 stitches in the Pattern, bring the working yarn over the next stitch and turn the work to the knit side.

11th RS row: Front: 5 stitches in the Pattern, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Left sleeve: 1 raglan yarn over, 3 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches together with a right-leaning, 1 yarn over, 3 knit stitches, 2 purl, 3 knit stitches, 1 yarn over, 2 knit stitches together with a left-leaning, 2 purl, 2 knit stitches, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Back: 1 raglan yarn over, 32 (34) stitches in Pattern, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Right sleeve: 1 raglan yarn over, 2 knit stitches, 2 purl, 2 knit stitches together with a right-leaning, 1 yarn over, 3 knit stitches, 2 purl, 3 knit stitches, 1 yarn over, 2 knit stitches together with a left-leaning, 3 purl, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Front: 1 raglan yarn over, 8 stitches in Pattern, bring the working yarn to the next stitch and turn the work to the wrong side.

12th purl row: Front: 9 stitches in Pattern, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker.

Right sleeve: 4 knit stitches, 5 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 5 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 3 purl stitches, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker.

Back: 34 (36) stitches in Pattern, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Left sleeve: 3 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 5 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches, 5 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, marker, 2 purl stitches, marker.

Front: 9 stitches in Pattern, bring the working yarn to the next stitch and turn the work to the right side.

13th knit row: Front: 9 stitches in Pattern, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Left sleeve: 1 raglan yarn over, 2 knit stitches, 2 purl, 3 knit stitches, 2 together knit with a right-leaning, 1 yarn over, 2 purl, 1 yarn over, 2 together knit with a left-leaning, 3 knit stitches, 2 purl, 3 knit stitches, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Back: 1 raglan yarn over, 34 (36) stitches in Pattern, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Right sleeve: 1 raglan yarn over, 3 knit stitches, 2 purl, 3 knit stitches, 2 together knit with a right-leaning, 1 yarn over, 2 purl, 1 yarn over, 2 together knit with a left-leaning, 3 knit stitches, 2 purl, 2 knit stitches, 1 raglan yarn over, marker, 2 knit stitches, marker.

Front: 1 raglan yarn over, 36 (38) stitches in Pattern, knit, lifting the stitches with yarn-overs (turn of the previous 14th row) - resulting on the Front needles should be 38 (40) stitches.

Stop before the next yarn over at the raglan line between the Front and the left sleeve - the new joining point of the circular row.

Begin knitting the 16th purl round according to the Sleeve Knitting Chart, remembering to make raglan increases in every 2nd knit row.

For all sizes, after knitting the yoke to the new joining point in the round and knitting the yoke in rounds, continuing increases for the raglan lines until on the needles remain:

64 (64, 75,75) stitches on each sleeve (stop on the 22nd (22nd, 18th, 18th) rows of the Main Pattern Chart) 76 (78, 88, 90) stitches Front, 76 (78, 88, 90) stitches Back.

In the last sleeve row for sizes L and XL, add one stitch in the underarm area to reach an even number of stitches. It will be 76 instead of 75 stitches.

UNDERARM SLITS FOR THE SWEATER BODY.

Having completed the yoke up to the separation into sleeves and body, stop at the joining point in the round, knit 2 knit stitches and move 64 (64,76,76) sleeve stitches onto an additional thread (close these stitches with an extra contrasting thread or transfer them to other needles).

Put aside the left sleeve.

Note that all 8 knit stitches of the raglan lines will be incorporated into the Front and Back, 4 stitches for each detail.

Cast on 4 (4,6,6) chain stitches using an extra contrasting yarn for the underarm edges, cinch these stitches together with the Front and Back stitches, knit the Back stitches, including the 2 knit stitches of the raglan lines. Then transfer 64 (64,76,76) sleeve stitches onto an additional yarn thread (close these stitches with an extra contrasting thread or transfer them to other needles).

Put aside the right sleeve.

Cast on another 4 (4,6,6) chain stitches using an extra contrasting yarn for the underarms, pull these stitches together and continue knitting the Front stitches. Stop at the joining point of the stitches in the round before the marker.

Now divide the sweater body into Front and Back. Move the marker to the middle between the 4 (4,6,6) underarm stitches under the left sleeve. Attach a second marker between the 4 (4,6,6) underarm stitches under the right sleeve.

These 8 (8,12,12) underarm stitches should be knitted only in knit stitches, the remaining stitches of the Front and Back knitted in the Double Rice pattern.

Ultimately, in a round it should be closed as follows:

For size S: 166 stitches, including 84 stitches in Front, 82 stitches in Back.

For size M: 170 stitches, including 86 stitches in Front, 84 stitches in Back.

For size L: 194 stitches, including 98 stitches in Front, 96 stitches in Back.

For size XL: 198 stitches, including 100 stitches in Front, 98 stitches in Back.

Knit the body of the sweater downward to the desired length.

How to cast on the underarm edge stitches is shown in the photographs:

Figure 5

On the yoke:

Size S: 64 + 64 (sleeves) + 76+76 (front and back) = 280 stitches.

Size M: 64+64 (sleeves) + 78+78 (front and back) = 284 stitches.

Size L: 76+76 (sleeves) + 88+88 (front and back) = 328 stitches.

Size XL: 76+76 (sleeves) + 90+90 (front and back) = 332 stitches.

Body of the sweater:

S: 76+76 (front and back) + 8 (underarms) + 8 (raglan lines) = 168 stitches.

M: 78+78 (front and back) + 8 (underarms) + 8 (raglan lines) = 172 stitches.

L: 88+88 (front and back) + 12 underarms + 8 raglan lines = 196 stitches.

XL: 90+90 (front and back) + 12 underarms + 8 raglan lines = 200 stitches.

SIDE SLITS.

Before knitting the ribbing, separate the Front and Back at the marker locations.

Begin the row by picking up the first stitch of the Back from the provisional chain, knit the back stitches, and at the end of the row up to the marker knit one more stitch—the last one. The worked stitches will be edge stitches.

As a result, the Back should have 84 (86, 98, 100) stitches. Turn the knitting to the wrong side and knit the sweater ribbing in turning rows for 4 cm / 10 rows, following the Crossed Rib pattern.

For this, on the wrong-side rows, knit the purl stitches as crossed.

Proceed to knit the Front in the same way.

There should be 86 (88, 100, 102) stitches in the Front.

Cast off the stitches with a needle or in the usual way.

SLEEVES.

Knit the sleeves in the main pattern. To expand the Sleeve Pattern, refer to the Sleeve Pattern Charts on the yoke.

When separating the yoke into the body of the sweater and the sleeves, which is described above, the sleeve stitches are now on auxiliary needles or closed with an additional contrasting thread in the amount of 64 (64, 76, 76) stitches.

Transfer these stitches to circular needles 4.5 mm in length, 40 or 50 cm, or, if you master the Magic Loop technique, 80–100 cm, to knit the sleeves in the round downward.

For this, you first need to cast on the underarm stitches.

To avoid holes between the underarm stitches and the sleeve stitches, work one stitch from each side of the underarm stitches from the provisional chain.

Having cast on the underarm stitches in the amount of 6 (6, 8, 8) stitches, the round ends up closed in a circle with 70 (70, 84, 84) stitches, which equals 5 (5, 6, 6) repeats of the Main Pattern.

Place a start-of-round marker and continue knitting the sleeve according to the Main Pattern Chart 23rd (23rd, 19th, 19th rows) around for 5 (5, 6, 6) repeats of the Pattern.

DETAILED: Size  S:M): 23rd row of the right sleeve: 4 knit stitches, *2 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, 4 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches* - repeat from * to * 4 times, 2 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, 4 purl stitches.

23rd row of the left sleeve: 2 knit stitches, *2 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, 4 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches* - repeat from * to * 4 times, 2 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, 4 purl stitches, 2 knit stitches.

Size  L: (XL): 19th row of the right sleeve: 1 knit stitch, 4 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, *2 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, 4 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches* - repeat 5 times, 2 purl stitches, 3 knit stitches.

19th row of the left sleeve: 4 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, *2 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches, 4 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches* - repeat from * to * 5 times, 2 purl stitches, 4 knit stitches.

For sizes S and M, knit 75 rows of the Pattern (6 rows to the end of the repeat + 2 repeats of 28 rows + 13 rows of the repeat). In the last row, decrease 14 stitches by knitting every 4th and 5th stitch together as a knit stitch.

On 56 stitches, knit the Rib Pattern for 8 rows or 3 cm.

Bind off the stitches with a needle or in the usual way.

For sizes L and XL knit 85 rows of the Pattern (1 row to the end of the repeat + 3 repeats of 28 rows). In the last row, decrease 20 stitches by knitting every 3rd and 4th stitch together as a knit stitch.

On 64 stitches, knit the Rib Pattern for 8 rows or 3 cm.

Bind off the stitches with a needle or in the usual way.

The picked-up underarm stitches, 4 (4, 6, 6) stitches from the sleeve and 4 (4, 6, 6) stitches from the front and back under each sleeve, join together with a tapestry needle using a mattress stitch.

WATER-THERMAL TREATMENT.

I recommend washing the sweater by hand.

Fill a container with water, lower a thermometer into it to ensure the correct temperature range of 30–40 degrees. The washing agent should be added to the water before your garment is placed in it. Leave it in the water for 15 minutes and start rinsing, checking the required water temperature each time. Wring the garment in a towel, do not wring or pull.

• After washing and wringing, remove the garment from the washing container, lay it flat on a towel, shaping it back to its original size using a measuring tape, smoothing out the stretched garment away from heat sources.

• After 10–12 hours, turn the sweater to the other side.

• Do not lift or try on the garment until it is completely dry.

• Do not iron the finished garment.

Enjoy your knitting!