Sweater with knitting needles

Sizes: S (M, L)
Data for sizes M, L are given in parentheses, respectively. If only one number is provided, it applies to all sizes.

MATERIALS:
• 12 (13, 15) skeins of Cashseta Lana Grossa yarn (40% modal, 30% polyamide, 15% cashmere, 15% silk), 50 g per 100 m
• Circular needles 5 mm and 5.5 mm, 80 cm long or needles of another thickness to achieve the required gauge
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle

Pattern "Double Moss" (repeat consists of 2 stitches and 4 rows):
When turning back the back and fronts:
1st knit row: 1 knit, 1 purl Repeat from * to * to the end of the row, finish with 1 knit.
2nd purl row and all purl rows: stitches as per pattern
3rd knit row: 1 purl, 1 knit Repeat from * to * to the end of the row, finish with 1 purl.

Pattern "Garter" (repeat consists of 1 stitch and 2 rows):
In turning rows all stitches on all rows are knit.

Pattern "Rib" (repeat consists of 2 stitches and 2 rows):
When knitting sleeves in the round:
1st knit row: 1 knit, 1 purl Repeat from * to *
2nd and all subsequent purl rows – as the 1st.

When knitting back, fronts, and yoke with turning rows:
1st knit row: 1 knit, 1 purl Repeat from * to * to the end of the row
2nd purl row: 1 purl, 1 knit Repeat from * to * to the end of the row

Pattern "Right Placket" (repeat consists of 9 stitches and 2 rows):
1st knit row: 1 edge stitch (slip, not knit as knit), 1 knit, 1 purl Repeat from * to * 4 times
2nd purl row: 1 knit, 1 purl, slip 1, with yarn in front, 1 knit Repeat from * to * 3 times, finish with slip 1 purl, yarn in front, 1 purl (edge).

Pattern "Left Placket" (repeat consists of 9 stitches and 2 rows):
1st knit row: 1 purl, 1 knit Repeat from * to * 4 times, finish with 1 purl (edge).
2nd purl row: 1 edge stitch (slip, as if to knit), 1 purl, yarn in front, 1 knit Repeat from * to * 3 times, finish with 1 purl slip, yarn in front, 1 knit.

Pattern №1: repeat 3 stitches and 2 rows

knit

purl

twisted stitch (ktbl)



Pattern №2: repeat 17 stitches and 24 rows

Pattern №3: repeat 29 stitches and 44 rows

Additional notations for Pattern №2:
• Symbol = 4 stitches crossed to the right: slip 2 stitches onto an auxiliary needle behind the work, knit 2, then 2 from the auxiliary needle.
• Symbol = 4 stitches crossed to the left: slip 2 stitches onto an auxiliary needle in front of the work, knit 2, then 2 from the auxiliary needles.

Additional notations for Pattern №3:
• 6 stitches crossed to the left – slip 3 stitches onto an auxiliary needle in front of the work, knit 3, then 3 from the auxiliary needles.
• 6 stitches crossed to the right – slip 3 stitches onto an auxiliary needle behind the work, knit 3, then 3 from the auxiliary needles.
• 5 stitches crossed to the left – slip 3 stitches in front of the work, knit 2, then 3 from the auxiliary needles.
• 5 stitches crossed to the right – slip 2 stitches behind the work, knit 3, then 2 from the auxiliary needles.
• 7 stitches crossed to the left – slip 3 stitches onto an auxiliary needle in front of the work, knit 4, then 3 from the auxiliary needles.

Gauging with patterns “Double Moss” or “Garter” after blocking:
16 stitches and 26 rows = 10 × 10 cm, needles 5.5 mm

Your knitting gauge may vary. It is recommended to knit a swatch, wash, dry, and adjust needles if necessary. For the pattern “Rib” use needles half a size smaller.

Note:
The fronts and the back are knitted together from the bottom using turning rows.
Sleeves – in rounds from the bottom. Then the pieces are joined with a stocking seam.
The length of the cardigan can be varied; this affects the position of the buttons.

Front and back:
Cast on 161 (167, 175) stitches on circular needles 5 mm and knit 9 rows (≈3.5 cm):
the first 9 stitches — pattern 'Left placket';
143 (149, 157) stitches — pattern 'Rib';
9 stitches — pattern 'Right placket'.

The first wrong-side row after the cast-on is worked according to the pattern for each pattern repeat.
Then knit in pattern for 8 more rows.

In the next (9th) wrong-side row switch to 5.5 mm needles and knit:
9 sts of the 'Left placket' pattern
143 (149,157) sts garter stitch pattern
9 sts of the 'Right placket' pattern

For convenience, count this row as the 10th (the 1st knit row).
Edge stitches: slip the first stitch as if to knit, and purl the last.

Buttonholes (shortened variant):
Knit straight to a height of 26 (28, 30) cm or 74 (76, 78) rows, not counting ribbing.

For size S:
In the 3rd RS row from the ribbing on the right front piece (center of the placket) at the start of the row knit together the 4th and 5th stitches, make a yarn over and continue in pattern.
Make 4 such holes every 10 cm or 28 rows: then in the 49th, 77th, 105th RS rows.
In WS rows (22nd, 50th, 78th, 106th) purl the yarn-overs to form a hole.

For size M:
In the 23rd RS row from the ribbing, at the start of the row knit together the 4th and 5th stitches, make a yarn over.
Repeat 3 more times every 10 cm or 28 rows — in the 51st, 79th, 107th RS rows.
In WS rows (24th, 52nd, 80th, 108th) purl the yarn-overs.

For size L:
In the 23rd RS row from the ribbing, at the start of the row knit together the 4th and 5th stitches, make a yarn over.
Repeat 3 times every 11 cm or 30 rows — in the 53rd, 83rd, 113th RS rows.
In WS rows (24th, 54th, 84th, 114th) purl the yarn-overs.

Starting with the 77th (79th, 83rd) RS row knit in the pattern 'Double Rib' up to and including the 106th (108th, 114th) row.

Division of work into front and back

Turn the knitting to the right side.
Slip 43 (45, 47) stitches of the right front onto a separate needle,
the next 75 (77, 81) stitches set aside on another needle for the back,
the remaining 43 (45, 47) stitches of the left front slip onto a separate needle or holder.

FRONT — right side

Continue knitting the right front piece:
For size S — on 43 stitches.
Immediately begin decreases for the neckline on every 4th RS row, 13 times.
For this, at the start of the RS row knit together the 9th and 10th stitches as purl.

Example:
1st RS row: 8 sts of the pattern 'Right Placket' (excluding the last stitch), 2 together purlwise, 32 sts of the pattern 'Double Rib', 1 edge.
2nd WS row and all WS rows — as per pattern.
3rd RS row: 9 sts of the pattern 'Right Placket', 32 sts of the pattern 'Double Rib', 1 edge.
4th RS row: 8 sts of the pattern 'Right Placket' (excluding the last stitch), 2 together purlwise, 31 sts of the pattern 'Double Rib', 1 edge.

Knit this way up to the 52nd row inclusive.
After completing 13 decreases (30 stitches remain on the needles) — begin the shoulder slope.

In the 53rd RS row, leave 10 stitches unworked and turn the knitting.
When turning, wrap the last stitch with the yarn to avoid a hole.

54th WS row: 11 sts 'Double Rib', 9 sts 'Right Placket'.
55th RS row: 9 sts 'Right Placket', 21 sts 'Double Rib', yarn over together with the stitch it was on.
56th WS row: 21 sts 'Double Rib', 9 sts 'Right Placket'.

Turn the knitting and transfer 8 stitches of the right shoulder placket onto a spare needle, cast off the remaining 22 stitches.

For size M — on 45 stitches.
Decreases for the neckline: in every 4th RS row 14 times.
1st RS row: 8 sts 'Right Placket', 2 together purlwise, 34 sts 'Double Rib', 1 edge.
4th RS row: 8 sts 'Right Placket', 2 together purlwise, 33 sts 'Double Rib', 1 edge.

After 14 decreases (21 sts remain?) — begin shoulder slope (on the 55th row).
Do not knit 10 sts, turn, wrap the last stitch with the yarn.

56th WS row: 12 sts 'Double Rib', 9 sts 'Right Placket'.
57th RS row: 9 sts 'Right Placket', 22 sts 'Double Rib', yarn over together with the stitch it was on.
58th WS row: 22 sts 'Double Rib', 9 sts 'Right Placket'.

8 stitches of the placket to be held on a spare needle, 23 stitches to be bound off.

For size L — on 47 stitches.
Neckline decreases: in every 4th RS row 15 times:
1st RS row: 8 sts 'Right Placket', 2 together purlwise, 36 sts 'Double Rib', 1 edge.
4th RS row: 8 sts 'Right Placket', 2 together purlwise, 35 sts 'Double Rib', 1 edge.

After 15 decreases (32 stitches remain) — begin shoulder slope.
In the 59th RS row, leave 11 stitches unworked, turn, wrap the last stitch with the yarn.

60th WS row: 12 sts 'Double Rib', 9 sts 'Right Placket'.
61st RS row: 9 sts 'Right Placket', 23 sts 'Double Rib'.
62nd WS row: 23 sts 'Double Rib', 9 sts 'Right Placket'.

8 stitches of the right shoulder placket to be held on a spare needle, the remaining 24 stitches to be bound off.

BACK

Starting from the first right-side row, knit the back immediately after the right side of the front on 75 (77, 81) stitches in the 'Double Rice' pattern.

For size S:
Knit to and including the 52nd row.
In the 53rd knit row, bind off the central 29 stitches for the neckline and at the same time begin shaping the shoulder slopes.

Knit 23 stitches in the 'Double Rice' pattern, transfer the central 29 stitches to an auxiliary needle or scrap yarn.

For the left shoulder:
knit 13 more stitches, leaving 10 stitches unworked at the end of the row.
Turn the knitting.
When turning, wrap the edge stitch with the working yarn to avoid a hole.

54th purl row: 13 stitches of the 'Double Rice'.
55th knit row: 2 together knitwise with a right-leaning decrease, 21 stitches of the 'Double Rice', knitting the yarn over with the stitch it was on.
56th purl row: 22 stitches of the 'Double Rice'.

Turn the knitting to the right side and bind off 22 stitches in the usual way.

For the right shoulder:
attach a new yarn at the beginning of the next 54th purl row.
In this row, do not knit 10 stitches, turn the knitting, wrapping the edge stitch.

55th knit row: 11 stitches of the 'Double Rice', 2 together knitwise with a left-leaning decrease.
56th purl row: 22 stitches of the 'Double Rice', knitting the yarn over with the loop.

Bind off 22 stitches in the usual way.

For size M:
Knit the back on 77 stitches in the 'Double Rice' pattern up to and including the 54th row.
In the 55th knit row, bind off the central 29 stitches for the neckline and at the same time begin shaping the shoulder slopes.

Knit 24 stitches of the 'Double Rice', transfer the central 29 stitches to an auxiliary needle.

For the left shoulder knit another 14 stitches, leaving 10 stitches unworked.
Turn the knitting, wrapping the edge stitch with the thread.

56th purl row: 14 stitches of the 'Double Rice'.
57th knit row: 2 together knitwise with a right-leaning decrease, 22 stitches of the 'Double Rice'.
58th purl row: 23 stitches of the 'Double Rice'.

Bind off 23 stitches in the usual way.

For the right shoulder:
attach a new yarn at the beginning of the next 56th purl row.
Do not knit 11 stitches, turn the knitting, wrapping the edge stitch with the thread.

57th knit row: 12 stitches of the 'Double Rice', 2 together knitwise with a left-leaning decrease.
58th purl row: 23 stitches of the 'Double Rice', knitting the yarn over together with the loop.

Bind off 23 stitches in the usual way.

For size L:
Knit the back on 81 stitches in the 'Double Rice' pattern up to and including the 58th row.
In the 59th knit row, bind off the central 31 stitches for the neckline and at the same time begin shaping the shoulder slopes.

Knit 25 stitches in the 'Double Rice' pattern, transfer the central 31 stitches to an auxiliary needle or scrap yarn.

For the left shoulder knit another 14 stitches, leaving 11 stitches unworked.
Turn the knitting, wrapping the edge stitch with the thread.

60th purl row: 14 stitches of the 'Double Rice'.
61st knit row: 2 together knitwise with a right-leaning decrease, 23 stitches of the 'Double Rice'.
62nd purl row: 24 stitches of the 'Double Rice'.

Bind off 24 stitches in the usual way.

For the right shoulder:
attach a new yarn at the beginning of the 60th purl row.
Do not knit 11 stitches, turn the knitting, wrapping the edge stitch with the thread.

61st knit row: 13 stitches of the 'Double Rice', 2 together knitwise with a left-leaning decrease.
62nd purl row: 24 stitches of the 'Double Rice', knitting the yarn over together with the loop.

Bind off 24 stitches in the usual way.

FRONT — left side

Continue knitting the left front.

For size S — on 43 stitches.
Begin decreases for the neckline on every 4th knit row 13 times.
For this, at the end of the knit row, knit the 9th and 10th stitches together purlwise from the end of the row.

Example:
1st knit row: 1 edge, 32 stitches of the 'Double Rice' pattern, 2 together purlwise, 8 stitches of the 'Left Placket'.
3rd knit row: 1 edge, 32 stitches of the 'Double Rice', 9 stitches of the 'Left Placket'.
4th knit row: 1 edge, 31 stitches of the 'Double Rice', 2 together knitwise with a left-leaning decrease, 8 stitches of the 'Left Placket'.

Continue this until the 52nd row inclusive.
After 13 decreases (30 stitches on the needles) start the shoulder slope.

Knit the 53rd knit row,
in the 54th purl row, do not knit 10 stitches, turn the knitting, wrapping the edge stitch.

55th knit row: 11 stitches of the 'Double Rice', 9 stitches of the 'Left Placket'.
56th purl row: 21 stitches of the 'Double Rice', 9 stitches of the 'Left Placket', knitting the yarn over together with the loop.

Bind off 22 stitches, and transfer 8 stitches of the left shoulder placket to an auxiliary needle.

LEFT FRONT (continued)

For size M:
On 45 stitches.
Immediately begin decreases for the neckline on every 4th knit row 14 times.
For this, at the end of the knit row, knit the 9th and 10th stitches together with a purl stitch from the end of the row.

Example:
1st knit row: 1 edge, 34 stitches of the pattern 'Double Rice', 2 together purlwise, 8 stitches of the pattern 'Left Front'.
2nd purl row and all purls — as the pattern.
3rd knit row: 1 edge, 34 stitches of the pattern 'Double Rice', 9 stitches of the pattern 'Left Front'.
4th knit row: 1 edge, 33 stitches of the pattern 'Double Rice', 2 together knitwise with a left-leaning decrease, 8 stitches of the pattern 'Left Front'.

Continue knitting this to the 54th row.
After 14 decreases (31 stitches remain), begin the shoulder slope.

Knit the 55th knit row.
In the next, 56th purl row, do not knit 10 stitches, turn the knitting, wrapping the edge stitch with the thread.

57th knit row: 12 stitches of the 'Double Rice', 9 stitches of the 'Left Front'.
58th purl row: 22 stitches of the 'Double Rice', 9 stitches of the 'Left Front', knitting the yarn over together with the loop it was on.

Bind off 23 stitches in the usual way and transfer 8 stitches of the left shoulder placket to an auxiliary needle or scrap yarn.

For size L:
On 47 stitches.
Immediately begin decreases for the neckline on every 4th knit row 15 times.
For this, at the end of the knit row, knit the 9th and 10th stitches together with a purl stitch from the end of the row.

Example:
1st RS row: 1 edge stitch, 36 stitches of pattern «Double Rice», 2 together purl, 8 stitches of pattern «Left Plank».
2nd WS row and all purl stitches — as in the pattern.
3rd RS row: 1 edge, 36 stitches «Double Rice», 9 stitches «Left Plank».
4th RS row: 1 edge, 35 stitches «Double Rice», 2 together purl, 8 stitches «Left Plank».

Thus knit to the 58th row.
After 15 decreases (32 stitches remain) begin the shoulder slope.

Knit the 59th RS row.
In the next, 60th WS row, do not knit 11 stitches, turn the work, wrapping the last stitch with yarn.

61st RS row: 12 stitches «Double Rice», 9 stitches «Left Plank».
62nd WS row: 9 stitches «Left Plank», 23 stitches «Double Rice», knitting the yarn over with a stitch.

Cast off 24 stitches in the usual way and transfer 8 stitches of the left-shoulder placket to an auxiliary needle or scrap yarn.

RIBKITS

On size 5 mm double-pointed needles or 5 mm circular needles, using the Magic Loop method, cast on 47 (49, 51) stitches.
Join the stitches in the round, knitting the last and first stitches together — you will have 46 (48, 50) stitches.
Attach a marker for the beginning of the round.

Knit 8 rounds (≈3.5 cm) in the pattern «Rib».
In the last round, increase 26 (28, 30) stitches — giving 72 (76, 80) stitches.

Switch to 5.5 mm needles and knit in the round:

Size S:
3 stitches of pattern №1, 17 stitches of pattern №2, 3 stitches of pattern №1, 29 stitches of pattern №3, 3 stitches of pattern №1, 17 stitches of pattern №2.

Size M:
3 stitches of pattern №1, 2 purl, 17 stitches of pattern №2, 3 stitches of pattern №1, 29 stitches of pattern №3, 3 stitches of pattern №1, 17 stitches of pattern №2, 2 purl.

Size L:
3 stitches of pattern №1, 2 purl, 17 stitches of pattern №2, 1 purl, 3 stitches of pattern №1, 1 purl, 29 stitches of pattern №3, 1 purl, 3 stitches of pattern №1, 1 purl, 17 stitches of pattern №2, 2 purl.

Thus knit straight, alternating the repeats of each pattern, a total of 90 rows (≈41 cm, not including the rib).
90 rows — this is 2 full repeats and 2 rows of the third repeat of pattern №3, which is placed in the center of the sleeve.

Stop at the 90th row.
If desired you can lengthen the sleeve by adding, for example, another 12 rows to each repeat.

Leave the loops open, transfer them to an auxiliary needle or scrap yarn.
Knit the second sleeve similarly.

JOINING PIECES

Shoulder Seams

Closed stitches of the front shoulder — 22 (23, 24) — join with the corresponding 22 (23, 24) stitches of the back shoulder in the usual way from the wrong side with a tapestry needle or crochet hook.

NECKLINE

Continue knitting the neckline band on the right side of the front piece, attaching it to the garment as you go.
Before joining the band with the open stitches of the back, connect it to the shoulder section.

1. Knit to the last stitch of the band.

2. Slip the last stitch onto the right needle.

3. Thread the right needle between the two edge stitches at the section where the band is being attached.

4. Draw out the new stitch.

5. Pass this stitch through the last stitch of the band on the right needle.

Purl the wrong-side row following the band pattern.

Next, attach the band to the open stitches of the back.
The back stitches should be transferred to the needles if they were closed with scrap yarn.

Note: the last stitch is knitted normally (not crossed).

1. In every RS row, swap the last two stitches on the right needle.

2. Slip the back purl stitch onto the left needle where the back stitches are located.

3. Knit this purl stitch together with the first stitch on the left needle, purl-wise.

4. Now place the last knit stitch of the band on the left needle.

5. Knit it with a knit stitch.

From the wrong side, knit the band following the pattern.
In fact, you should knit the penultimate purl stitch together with the open back stitch purlwise and finish with the edge stitch of the band.

Having knitted to the open stitches of the band on the left, join the stitches using the method «stitch-in-stitch».

For this you need to divide the band on each side into knit and purl stitches.
Take two additional needles and place the purl stitches onto them, as in the photo (see the original).

Next:

1. Sew the opposite stitches using the principle of stockinette stitch. To do this, thread the needle through the first knit stitch of the first band from bottom to top, pulling the yarn.

2. Then thread the needle into the first knit stitch on the opposite side of the second band from top to bottom, pull the yarn.

3. Knit this purl stitch together with the first stitch on the left needle, in purl.

4. Repeat the same actions with the second band — from top to bottom and from bottom to top.

After all four stitches are sewn on the knit side, turn the garment to the wrong side and continue attaching the band in the same way from the wrong side.
Secure the yarn under the stitches and cut.

SHOULDER SEAMS

Open sleeve stitches can be joined to the cardigan’s armholes with a knitting seam.

Need to pick up the loop along the edge stitches on the body of the sweater and enter from top to bottom (or from the right side inward) into the first open sleeve stitch, then into the second — bottom to top (or from the wrong side).

Next pick up the next loop, and on the sleeve enter the second stitch again from top to bottom, and the third — bottom to top, and so on.
This creates a knit seam on the sleeve.

You can also close the sleeve stitches in the usual way (with a hook or needles) and sew the pieces together with a classic seam on the wrong side.

WET-HEAT TREATMENT

The cardigan should be washed by hand.

1. Fill the container with water and ensure that the temperature is 30–40 °C.

2. Add laundry detergent before you lower the item into the water.

3. Leave the cardigan in the water for about 15 minutes, then start rinsing, monitoring the water temperature.

4. Wring the garment in a towel, not wringing or stretching.

5. After washing and wringing, lay the cardigan flat on a towel, giving it its original dimensions (you can use a measuring tape).

6. Place the garment away from heating devices.

7. After 10–12 hours, turn it over to the other side.

8. Do not lift or try on the cardigan until it is completely dry.

9. Do not iron the completely dry garment.