Top with knitting needles

The combination of knitting needles and crochet hooks occasionally comes back into fashion, adding a touch of ethnicity and surprise to the image while expanding creative boundaries. The Solaris top is, so to speak, a reproduction of a sweater I knitted back in my student years, and if my memory serves me right, at the very end of the last century. This is further proof that crochet and knitting needles in one design hit the mark at all times. Let the expressive crochet insert not take all your attention. The top is equipped with various fitting improvements in the form of darts for the bust and a back neck, while the upper part of the sleeves has created space for the shoulders in the form of radiating shoulder darts that repeat the motifs of a stylized sun.

Size: XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL, XXXL)

Bust circumference: 82-86 (88-92, 94-98, 100-104, 106-110, 112-116, 118-122) cm

Hip circumference: 86-90 (92-96, 98-102, 104-108, 110-114, 116-120, 122-126) cm

Final garment size at bust level: 93.5 (100, 105.5, 111.5, 118.5, 123.5, 131) cm

Cup size: 0-A (A, B, C, C-D, D, E)

Height: 165-175 cm

Recommended ease at bust level: on average 6-12 cm. The sample on the model is knitted according to the size L description with an ease of 8 cm.

Gauge for stockinette stitch: needles 3.5 mm; 22 sts and 34 rows = 10x10 cm. If your gauge differs from the specified one, the measurements of the parts and the finished product will differ from those that should be in your size. It is recommended to achieve the specified gauge or choose a description of a larger or smaller size.

Yarn: stock yarn Lineapiu Cretonne, 75% cotton, 25% polyamide, 420 m in 100 g, about 400 (420, 440, 460, 490, 520, 550) g. of natural white color, in 2 strands. The final meterage is 210 m in 100 g. For the top, a total of 840 (880, 920, 970, 1030, 1100, 1150) m will be needed. Next is yarn A. It is recommended to knit the crochet insert from another smoother yarn of the same (or similar) color and shade. For the insert, about 85-100 g of yarn will be needed. In this case, the main yarn will be needed 85-100 g less. Next is yarn B. Needles and additional supplies: straight needles 3.0 mm and 3.5 mm; circular needles 3.0 mm, tapestry needle for sewing; additional circular needles and/or stitch holders; a few stitch markers and pins, crochet hook No. 3 (C).

Notes

1. Before starting work, be sure to read the entire description.

2. The edge stitches along the entire length of the parts are purl edge stitches (braid), even if not mentioned in the further description.

3. When casting on stitches and after completing the parts, leave long enough loose ends for further sewing and finishing.

4. The description is given for size XS, the numbers in parentheses correspond to sizes S, M, L, XL, XXL, and XXXL. If only one number appears in the description, it refers to all sizes.

5. The final measurement of the diameter of the crochet insert should be approximately 2 mm larger than the diameter of the hole of the empty circle on the front part.

Patterns and techniques

Crochet insert. See the diagram on the next page.

1x1 rib for flat knitting. Right side: edge st., *1 purl st., 1 knit st.* repeat between * until the last st. of the row, 1 purl st. In purl rows, knit according to the pattern.

1x1 rib for circular knitting. *1 knit st., 1 purl st.* Repeat between * until the end of the circular row.

Stockinette stitch. All knit rows are purl st., all purl rows are knit st.

Purl edge stitch (braid). At the beginning of each row, slip the first st. without knitting. Knit the last st. of each knit row as a purl st., and the last st. of each purl row as a knit st. Carry the yarn without wrapping the edge st.

Smoothing row in stockinette stitch is used to level the steps formed after working short rows. Knit smoothing rows with purl or knit st. (depending on the side of the knitting), including wrapped stitches. The wrap yarn remains in place and is not knitted together with the wrapped stitch.

Abbreviations

st. – stitch, stitches

row. – row, rows

purl. – purl (-ed)

knit. – knit (-ted)

Pattern drawings and measurements (cm)

Crochet insert diagram

With yarn B and a crochet hook, chain 6 air stitches, close the chain with a slip stitch.

1st round: replace the first double crochet with 3 air stitches, then crochet another 18 double crochets in a circle (total of 19 double crochets). Finish the round with a slip stitch in the 3rd air st. of the beginning.

2nd-19th rounds: knit according to the diagram (total of 19 repeats - “rays”).

Only for sizes L, XL, XXL, XXXL:

Knit the 20th and 21st rounds.

For all sizes:

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end (about 3.5 times longer than the edge to be sewn) for inserting the insert into the empty circle on the front part.

If the finished insert does not match the specified measurements, knit an additional round or unravel the unnecessary one. If changes are made, the last round should be knitted with solid double crochets similar to the 19th or 21st round.

Diagram of the empty circle in the center of the front part

The diagram shows the lower right quarter of the empty circle. Knit the lower left quarter of the circle mirroring it; for the upper left quarter, turn the diagram 180 degrees and then knit the upper right quarter mirroring it. Decrease by closing the specified number of stitches or knitting 2 last stitches together according to the pattern; increases or casts on are done with air stitches at the end of the row. If it is not possible to cast on or close the specified number of stitches in a particular row, cast on or close their total number in the next row.

Back

With straight needles 3.0 mm and yarn A, cast on 102 (108, 114, 120, 126, 132, 138) sts using the Italian method for 1x1 ribbing. In the next knit row, start knitting 1x1 ribbing for flat knitting (see Patterns and Techniques). Knit a total of 14 rows of ribbing, finishing in a purl row. In the next row, switch to 3.5 mm needles and continue knitting straight in stockinette stitch. *Knit a total of 110 (106, 104, 102, 100, 98, 96) rows, finishing in a purl row. Count the rows from the ribbing.

Forming armholes and raglan lines

In the next knit row (the first row of the armhole), at the beginning of the row, close 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts with purl sts. Knit the row to the end, turn the work. In the next purl row, close at the beginning of the row 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts with knit sts. Knit to the last 2 sts, knit them together as knit st. Turn the work, edge st., 1 purl st., 2 sts together purlwise leaning to the right, knit to the last 5 sts, 2 sts together purlwise leaning to the left, 1 purl st., 2 last sts together purlwise leaning to the left. Turn the work and knit the purl row. A total of 4 setup rows for the armhole have been completed.

In the next knit row, perform a decrease row.

Decrease row: edge st., 1 purl st., 2 sts together purlwise leaning to the right, knit to the last 4 sts, 2 sts together purlwise leaning to the left, 2 purl sts. 2 sts decreased.

Repeat the decrease row 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3) more times in every 2nd row, then 25 (27, 29, 30, 30, 32, 34) times, alternating every 3rd and every 2nd row. 32 (32, 32, 34, 36, 36, 36) sts remain on the needles. Continue knitting straight until the height of the armholes is 74 (78, 82, 84, 88, 92, 96) rows, including setup rows, finishing in a purl row.

Cut the yarn, leaving a sufficient length for the raglan seam. Transfer all open sts to a stitch holder or additional circular needle.

Front

Knit according to the back description until *. Then knit straight for a total of 24 (22, 24, 18, 20, 22, 22) rows, finishing in a purl row. Count the rows from the ribbing. In the next row, knit 47 (50, 53, 56, 59, 62, 65) sts (taking into account the first increases for the expansion of the front, see below), attach new yarn, close 10 center sts with purl sts using the new yarn, and knit to the end of the row (the first row of the empty circle diagram). Then knit both parts separately and simultaneously, following the diagram of the empty circle.

Expansion of the front

Knit a total of 18 (18, 18, 16, 16, 16, 16) rows from the ribbing, finishing in a purl row. In the next row, perform a row of increases for the expansion of the front.

Increase row for the expansion of the front: edge st., 2 purl sts, lift the st. that is one row below the last knitted st. onto the left needle, knit it as a purl st., knit to the last 3 sts (or to the last 3 sts of the right part if the front part has already been divided by the empty circle into two separate parts), lift the st. that is one row below the next st. onto the left needle and knit it as a purl st., 3 purl sts. 2 sts increased.

Repeat the increase row for the expansion of the front 2 (2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 6) more times in every 30th (28th, 20th, 16th, 12th, 12th, 10th) row.

Side horizontal darts for the bust

Knit a total of 99 (95, 93, 91, 89, 87, 85) rows of the left part of the front (from the ribbing), finishing in a knit row, turn the work. Then knit the left part separately. Knit the next purl row to the last 5 (5, 5, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work, knit the knit row to the end, turn the work.

*In the next purl row, do not knit 4 sts before the wrapped st., wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work, knit the knit row to the end, turn the work.* Repeat between * 1 (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) more times. Knit the next smoothing purl row.

Knit a total of 98 (94, 92, 90, 88, 86, 84) rows of the right part of the front (from the ribbing), finishing in a purl row, turn the work. Then knit the right part separately. Knit the next knit row to the last 5 (5, 5, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work, knit the purl row to the end, turn the work.

*In the next knit row, do not knit 4 sts before the wrapped st., wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work, knit the purl row to the end, turn the work.* Repeat between * 1 (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) more times. Knit the next smoothing knit row and one more purl row.

Continue knitting both parts simultaneously, following the diagram of the empty circle, until a total of 110 (106, 104, 102, 100, 98, 96) rows have been knitted, finishing in a purl row. Count the rows from the ribbing at the side seams.

Forming armholes and raglan lines

In the next knit row (the first row of the armhole) at the beginning of the row, close 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15) sts with purl sts. Knit the left and right parts of the front to the end, turn the work. In the next purl row, close at the beginning of the row 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15) sts with knit sts. Knit the right part of the front to the end, then knit the left part to the last 2 sts, knit them together as knit st. Turn the work, edge st., 1 purl st., 2 sts together purlwise leaning to the right, knit the left part to the end, knit the next row of the right part to the last 5 sts, 2 sts together purlwise leaning to the left, 1 purl st., 2 last sts together purlwise leaning to the left.

Only for sizes XS, S, M, L, and XL:

Turn the work and knit a purl row on both parts of the front. A total of 4 setup rows for the armhole have been completed.

Only for sizes XXL and XXXL:

Turn the work. Start the next purl row with edge st., 1 knit st., 2 sts together knitwise leaning to the left; knit the right part to the end, knit the left part to the last 4 sts, 2 sts together knitwise leaning to the right, 2 knit sts. A total of 4 setup rows for the armhole have been completed.

For all sizes:

In the next knit row, perform a decrease row.

Decrease row: at the beginning of the row: edge st., 1 purl st., 2 sts together purlwise leaning to the right; at the end of the row: knit to the last 4 sts, 2 sts together purlwise leaning to the left, 2 purl sts. 2 sts decreased.

Repeat the decrease row: for sizes XS (S) - 23 (24) more times, alternating 3 times in every 2nd row and once in every 3rd row; for size M - 27 more times, alternating 4 times in every 2nd row and once in every 3rd row; for sizes L (XL, XXL) - 29 (31, 32) more times in every 2nd row; for size XXXL - 2 more times in every row and 32 times in every 2nd row.

Joining both parts of the front and closing the empty circle

Knit a total of 28 (30, 32, 38, 40, 42, 42) rows of the armhole, including setup rows (the last purl row is the last row of the empty circle diagram). In the next knit row, knit the left part, chain 10 air sts, and with the same yarn knit the right part to the end. 62 (66, 68, 66, 70, 70, 76) sts remain on the needles. Cut the yarn on the right part of the front.

Continue knitting as established.

Neckline of the front

Knit a total of 46 (48, 52, 52, 54, 56, 58) rows of the armhole, including setup rows. In the last purl row, place markers for the stitches marking 12 (14, 14, 16, 14, 14, 18) center sts of the front.

• Continuing the decreases for the left raglan line as previously established, in the next knit row knit to the marker, remove the marker, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work and knit the purl row to the end.

• *In the next knit row, do not knit 3 sts before the wrapped st., wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work and knit the purl row to the end.* Repeat between * one more time.

• *In the next knit row, do not knit 2 sts before the wrapped st., wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work and knit the purl row to the end.* Repeat between * 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) more times.

Knit the next smoothing knit row to the end, turn the work. While forming the right side of the neckline of the front, continue the decreases for the right raglan line as previously established.

• In the next purl row, knit to the marker, remove the marker, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work and knit the knit row to the end.

• *In the next purl row, do not knit 3 sts before the wrapped st., wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work and knit the knit row to the end.* Repeat between * one more time.

• *In the next purl row, do not knit 2 sts before the wrapped st., wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work and knit the knit row to the end.* Repeat between * 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) more times.

Knit the next smoothing purl row. On the needles, there are 38 (40, 40, 42, 44, 44, 46) sts. Cut the yarn, leaving a sufficient length for the raglan seam. Transfer all open sts to a stitch holder or additional circular needle.

The final height of the front armhole is 58 (60, 64, 64, 68, 70, 72) rows.

Sleeves (2 mirror parts)

With straight needles 3.0 mm and yarn A, cast on 70 (74, 78, 82, 86, 90, 94) sts using the Italian method for 1x1 ribbing. In the next knit row, start knitting 1x1 ribbing for flat knitting (see Patterns and Techniques). Knit a total of 14 rows of ribbing, finishing in a purl row. In the next row, switch to 3.5 mm needles and continue knitting straight in stockinette stitch. Knit a total of 4 rows, finishing in a purl row. Count the rows from the ribbing.

In the next knit row, perform a row of increases for the expansion of the sleeve.

Increase row for the expansion of the sleeve: edge st., 2 purl sts, lift the st. that is one row below the last knitted st. onto the left needle, knit it as a purl st., knit to the last 3 sts, lift the st. that is one row below the next st. onto the left needle and knit it as a purl st., 3 purl sts. 2 sts increased.

Repeat the increase row for the expansion of the sleeve one more time in every 4th row. On the needles, there are 74 (78, 82, 86, 90, 94, 98) sts. Continue knitting straight until the length of the sleeve from the ribbing is 12 rows, finishing in a purl row.

Forming the caps

For the underarm gussets, in the next knit row at the beginning of the row, close 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts with purl sts (the first row of the cap). Knit the row to the end, turn the work. In the next purl row, at the beginning of the row, close 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts with knit sts. Knit to the last 2 sts, knit them together as knit st. Turn the work, edge st., 1 purl st., 2 sts together purlwise leaning to the right, knit to the last 5 sts, 2 sts together purlwise leaning to the left, 1 purl st., 2 last sts together purlwise leaning to the left. Turn the work and knit the purl row.

A total of 4 setup rows for the cap have been completed.

In the next knit row, perform a decrease row.

Decrease row: edge st., 1 purl st., 2 sts together purlwise leaning to the right, knit to the last 4 sts, 2 sts together purlwise leaning to the left, 2 purl sts. 2 sts decreased.

Repeat the decrease row one more time (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) in every 2nd row, once in every 6th row, 3 times in every 8th row, 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times in every 4th row and 4 (5, 6, 7, 6, 6, 7) times in every 3rd row. On the needles, there are 34 (34, 34, 34, 34, 36, 36) sts.

Next, repeat the decreases only for the back side of the cap (on the right side of the left sleeve and on the left side of the right sleeve) a total of 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6) times in every 3rd row. On the needles, there are 30 sts.

Radiating shoulder darts

Continuing to perform decreases for forming the cap as previously established, knit a total of 38 (38, 38, 38, 40, 40, 40) rows of the cap, including setup rows. On the needles, there are 48 (50, 52, 54, 54, 56, 58) sts.

• In the next knit row, knit to the last 18 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. In the next purl row, knit to the last 18 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work.

• In the next knit row, knit to the last 15 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. In the next purl row, knit to the last 15 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work (see Patterns and Techniques, Smoothing row in stockinette stitch).

• In the next knit row, knit to the last 12 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. In the next purl row, knit to the last 12 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work.

• In the next knit row, knit to the last 9 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. In the next purl row, knit to the last 9 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work.

• In the next knit row, knit to the last 6 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. In the next purl row, knit to the last 6 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work.

Knit the next knit and purl smoothing rows, and 6 more rows as established.

• In the next knit row, knit to the last 4 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. In the next purl row, knit to the last 4 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work.

• In the next knit row, knit to the last 7 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. In the next purl row, knit to the last 7 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work.

• In the next knit row, knit to the last 10 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. In the next purl row, knit to the last 10 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work.

• In the next knit row, knit to the last 13 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. In the next purl row, knit to the last 13 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work.

• In the next knit row, knit to the last 16 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. In the next purl row, knit to the last 16 sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work.

Knit the next knit and purl smoothing rows, and continue knitting as established.

Forming the rise on the right sleeve

Continuing to perform decreases for forming the cap as previously established, knit a total of 63 (65, 69, 69, 73, 75, 77) rows of the cap, including setup rows, finishing in a knit row. On the needles, there are 34 (34, 34, 36, 34, 36, 36) sts.

• Continuing to perform decreases for forming the cap, knit the next purl row to the last 10 (9, 9, 8, 7, 6, 6) sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. Knit the knit row to the end.

• In the next purl row, do not knit 7 (6, 6, 6, 6, 5, 4) sts before the wrapped st., wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. Knit the knit row to the end.

• In the next purl row, do not knit 5 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 3) sts before the wrapped st., wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. Knit the knit row to the end.

• *In the next purl row, do not knit 3 sts before the wrapped st., wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. Knit the knit row to the end. * Repeat between * 0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) more times.

• **In the next purl row, do not knit 2 sts before the wrapped st., wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. Knit the knit row to the end. ** Repeat between ** 0 (0, 0, 1, 1, 2, 3) more times.

Knit the next smoothing purl row.

On the needles, there are 30 sts. The final height of the back side of the cap is 74 (78, 82, 84, 88, 92, 96) rows. Cut the yarn, leaving a length for the raglan seam. Transfer all open sts to a stitch holder or additional circular needle.

Forming the rise on the left sleeve

Continuing to perform decreases for forming the cap as previously established, knit a total of 62 (64, 68, 68, 72, 74, 76) rows of the cap, including setup rows, finishing in a purl row. On the needles, there are 34 (34, 34, 36, 36, 36, 36) sts.

• Continuing to perform decreases for forming the cap, knit the next knit row to the last 10 (9, 9, 8, 7, 6, 6) sts, wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. Knit the purl row to the end.

• In the next knit row, do not knit 7 (6, 6, 6, 6, 5, 4) sts before the wrapped st., wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. Knit the purl row to the end. In the next knit row, do not knit 5 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 3) sts before the wrapped st., wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. Knit the purl row to the end.

• *In the next knit row, do not knit 3 sts before the wrapped st., wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. Knit the purl row to the end. * Repeat between * 0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) more times.

• **In the next knit row, do not knit 2 sts before the wrapped st., wrap the next st. with yarn, turn the work. Knit the purl row to the end. ** Repeat between ** 0 (0, 0, 1, 1, 2, 3) more times.

Knit the next knit smoothing row and one more purl row. On the needles, there are 30 sts. The final height of the back side of the cap is 74 (78, 82, 84, 88, 92, 96) rows. Do not cut the yarn. Transfer all open sts to a stitch holder or additional circular needle.

Assembly and finishing

Front insert

Before starting to insert the insert into the empty circle, it is recommended to wash, dry, and/or steam the front part and the insert through a damp cloth. Lay the front part on a flat surface, and place the insert over the empty circle. Pin the insert to the inner edges of the circle with an overlap of 1-2 mm. Thread the yarn left over when finishing the insert into a tapestry needle and sew the insert to the edges of the circle with a “back stitch,” catching the tops of the double crochets of the last round and sewing through each stitch.

Neckline band

Transfer the open stitches of all parts to a circular needle 3.0 mm. With the yarn left on the left sleeve, knit one round of knit stitches. When knitting the first round, knit the first 2 and the last 2 stitches of each piece together as knit stitches, thus decreasing the edge stitches. On the needle, there are 122 (124, 124, 128, 132, 132, 134) sts. Continue knitting the neckline band in 1x1 ribbing for circular knitting and knit 13 rounds. Cut the yarn, leaving a sufficient length to close the stitches of the band with a needle. Use the remaining end of the yarn to close the stitches of the band using the needle method for 1x1 ribbing.

Sew the raglan seams with the remaining ends of the yarn using mattress stitch. Do not pull the yarn too tight, sew loosely, trying to maintain the elasticity of the seams. When sewing the underarm gussets, sew the closed stitches of the underarms of the back and front to the closed stitches of the gussets of the caps stitch by stitch. To the remaining 4 closed stitches of the underarm of the front, sew 3 edge stitches of the front side of the caps. Sew the seams of the sleeves and the side seams with mattress stitch using the remaining ends of the yarn.

Weave in all ends. Wash the garment, press it rolled up between two terry towels, lay it flat on a smooth surface, adjust the shape, and check the measurements. Squeeze and stretch along the ribbing. Allow to dry completely.

Closing stitches with a needle for 1x1 ribbing (without tubular ribbing)

1. You will need a piece of yarn approximately 3 lengths of the edge being closed, threaded into a tapestry needle. Divide the stitches of the edge being closed into knit and purl and move them to separate circular needles.

2. Start closing with a purl stitch. Insert the needle from right to left or from under the stitch, pull the yarn and remove the stitch from the needle.

3. Insert the needle into the first knit stitch from top to bottom and into the next knit stitch on the needle from bottom to top just as when sewing with knit stitch. Pull the yarn and remove both stitched stitches from the needle. The first stitched purl stitch and the first stitched knit stitch at the very end of the circle will be stitched again for an invisible connection of the beginning and the end.

4. Turn the ribbing inside out. On the inside, the purl stitches have now become knit stitches, but for convenience, they will be referred to as purl stitches from now on. *Insert the needle into the removed purl stitch from top to bottom and into the next purl stitch on the needle from bottom to top, just as when sewing with knit stitch. Pull the yarn and remove the stitched stitch from the needle.

5. On the right side, insert the needle into the removed knit stitch from top to bottom and into the next knit stitch on the needle from bottom to top, just as when sewing with knit stitch. Pull the yarn and remove the stitched stitch from the needle. Return to the inside and repeat from *.

6-7. When closing stitches, pay attention to:
a) In no way should the stitched stitches be twisted. When inserting the needle into the stitch, make sure that the stitched stitch remains untwisted.
b) Do not confuse the removed stitched stitch with the stitch that is in the penultimate row. In the sixth photo, the raised stitch is one row below the stitch that actually needs to be stitched. The required stitch is above (see the seventh photo). If you catch the wrong stitch with the needle, the edge will end up jagged and uneven.

8. The last photo shows what the result should look like. When the closure around is nearly complete, the last two stitches on both sides should be stitched with the stitches that were used to establish the beginning. Thus, the connection of the beginning and end of the circle becomes invisible.