Knitted cardigan for a girl

What you'll need:
• Yarn Art Jeans Plus* yarn (100 g / 160 m, 55% cotton, 45% acrylic) or any other yarn suitable by yardage and gauge
• Circular needles on a 40 cm cable, size 5 (optional; I find it more convenient to knit the neckline on them)
• Circular needles on a cable 60-100 cm, size 5
• Double-pointed needles 5 mm (if you will knit the sleeves not using the Magic Loop method)
• Crochet hook or needle
• Stitch markers for stitches, 8 pcs.
• Scissors
• Buttons (2-6 pcs.)
• Row counter (optional)
• Measuring tape

Gauge: 17 stitches and 24 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm in stockinette with 5 mm needles. I knit fairly tightly. If your gauge with the indicated needles does not match mine, try changing to a larger or smaller needle size.

Patterns:
Garter stitch: all rows are knit
Stockinette stitch: right-side row is knit, wrong-side row is purled
Lace pattern: knitting according to the chart

- knit

 - yarn over

2 - 2 stitches knitted together with a right-leaning decrease

 2 - 2 stitches knitted together with a left-leaning decrease

3 stitches knitted together

 - wrap the working thread around 3 stitches and knit them

Size chart

Below are raglan shaping diagrams

6–12 months

1. Beginning of the row
2.  - Turning points
3. I - Placket
4. / - Raglan line

1–2 years

3–4 years

5–6–7 years

8-9-10

Before starting work, choose the required size based on your child’s measurements.
I recommend primarily using the neck and chest circumferences as a guide.
Below are the raglan-shaping schemes for the top with a rise. Pick the scheme you need and start knitting.

Beginning work (for the example I’ll knit a size for 1–2 years).
On 5 mm needles, cast on 48 stitches and knit 5 rows in garter stitch.

1 edge stitch (hereafter cr.) is slipped without knitting and all stitches are knitted (hereafter knit). The last edge stitch is a purl stitch. In the wrong-side row, all stitches are knitted.

The first edge stitch is always slipped without being worked. The last edge stitch is always purled.

If you plan closures with buttons, in the 3rd row knit a buttonhole (to be able to fasten the button).
Knit as follows: 1 edge stitch, 1 knit stitch, yarn over, 2 stitches knitted together with a right-leaning decrease, and then continue according to the pattern. In the wrong-side row, knit the yarn over as shown (knit).
Repeat in every 11–15 rows, depending on the desired number of buttons.

On the 6th garter-row, place markers (see your size chart).
6th garter-row: 1 cr., 3 knit stitches (placket stitches), 8 knit stitches, Marker 1, 2 raglan stitches (raglans), Marker 2, 4 knit stitches, Marker 3, 2 raglan stitches, Marker 4, 8 knit stitches, Marker 5, 2 raglan stitches, Marker 6, 4 knit stitches, Marker 7, 2 raglan stitches, Marker 8, 8 knit stitches, 3 knit stitches (placket stitches), cr.

Rise.

To work the rise and shape the neckline of the garment, we will use short rows.
Short rows are done by partial knitting, i.e., do not complete the row to the end, turn the knitting at a certain point (marked on the charts) and knit in the opposite direction.

To make transitions between rows less noticeable, we will work the so-called “bridge.”

In the right-side row, the bridge is made as follows:
Knit all stitches up to the turning point (the stitch is marked on your chart). Turn the knitting to the wrong-side row. Working yarn in front. Move the last knitted stitch from the left needle to the right and pull the working yarn back until the stitch twists and two stitches appear. If you look from the back, you will see the so-called bridge. It counts as a separate stitch.

The same actions are repeated when knitting on the wrong-side row, only when transferring the stitch from the left needle to the right, the working yarn is at the back — bring it forward and pull toward you until the stitch twists.

After knitting the wrong-side row and moving on to the right-side, when you reach the place with the bridge, knit it as 2 knit stitches together. When you reach the place with the bridge on the wrong-side row, knit it as 2 purl stitches together, inserting the needle from behind. (Short rows and the method of knitting the bridge are shown in detail in the video.)

Increases.

Increase before the raglan stitches is done as follows:
Knit the stitch before the raglan line; from the previous row, make an increase from half a stitch (a twisted stitch).

Increase after raglan stitches:
First, from the stitch of the previous row, work the increase (a crossed stitch), then work the stitch itself.

 Growth for 6–12 months

Row 1: 1 edge stitch, 3 knit stitches, 6 knit stitches, increases with a right-leaning slope, 2 knit stitches, increases with a left-leaning slope, 3 knit stitches, increases with a right-leaning slope, 2 knit stitches, increases with a left-leaning slope, 6 knit stitches, increases with a right-leaning slope, 2 knit stitches, increases with a left-leaning slope, 1 knit stitch, turn.
Row 2: bridge, we knit the raglan lines and back in purl stitches until the turning point on the chart (for me, the second sleeve stitch after the raglan line), turn.
Row 3: bridge, we knit the sleeve stitches, raglan lines and back in knit stitches, make increases along the raglan lines, reach the bridge and knit it as 2 stitches together knitwise, 1 knit (see your chart), turn.
Row 4: bridge, we knit the sleeve, raglan lines and back in purl stitches, reach the turning point and knit it as 2 stitches together purl, 1 purl, turn.
Row 5: bridge, we knit the sleeve stitches, raglan lines and back in knit stitches, make increases along the raglan lines, reach the bridge and knit it as 2 stitches together knitwise, knit the remaining sleeve stitches, increase leaning to the right, 2 knit stitches, increase leaning to the left, 3 knit stitches, turn.
Row 6: bridge, we knit the sleeve, raglan lines and back in purl stitches, reach the bridge and knit it as 2 stitches together purl, knit the remaining sleeve stitches, raglan line, 4 purl, turn.

Row 7: bridge, we knit the sleeve, raglan lines and back in knit stitches, make increases along the raglan lines, reach the bridge and knit it as 2 stitches together knitwise, knit all remaining stitches of the row in knit, edge stitch.
Row 8: edge stitch, 3 knit, we knit the sleeve stitches, raglan lines and back in purl stitches, reach the turning point and knit it as 2 stitches together purl, knit all remaining stitches of the row in purl, the last 3 stitches knit, edge stitch.

Note! The first and last 3 stitches (excluding the edge stitches) are always knitted in knit stitches!!! This is how we form the placket.

Growth chart for 1-10 years

As a reminder, I am knitting a size for 1–2 years.

Row 1: 1 edge stitch, 3 knit stitches, 8 knit stitches (see your chart), increase with a right-leaning bias, 2 knit stitches, increase with a left-leaning bias, 4 knit stitches, increase with a right-leaning bias, 2 knit stitches, increase with a left-leaning bias, 8 knit stitches, increase with a right-leaning bias, 2 knit stitches, increase with a left-leaning bias, 1 knit stitch, turn.
Row 2: bridge, we knit the raglan lines and back in purl stitches, reaching the turning point on the chart (this is the second sleeve stitch after the raglan line), turn.
Row 3: bridge, we knit the sleeve stitches, raglan lines and back in knit stitches, make increases along the raglan lines, reach the turning point and knit it as 2 stitches together knitwise, 1 knit (see your chart), turn.
Row 4: bridge, we knit the sleeve stitches, raglan lines and back in purl stitches, reach the turning point and knit it as 2 stitches together purl, 1 purl, turn.
Row 5: bridge, we knit the sleeve stitches, raglan lines and back in knit stitches, make increases along the raglan lines, reach the turning point and knit it as 2 stitches together knitwise, 1 knit, turn.
Row 6: bridge, we knit the sleeve stitches, raglan lines and back in purl stitches, reach the turning point and knit it as 2 stitches together purl, 1 purl, turn.
Row 7: bridge, we knit the sleeve stitches, raglan lines and back in knit stitches, make increases along the raglan lines, reach the turning point and knit it as 2 stitches together knitwise, knit the remaining sleeve stitches, increase leaning to the right, 2 knit stitches, increase leaning to the left, 3 knit stitches, turn.
Row 8: bridge, we knit the sleeve stitches, raglan lines and back in purl stitches, reach the turning point and knit it as 2 stitches together purl, knit the remaining sleeve stitches, raglan line, 4 purl, turn.
Row 9: bridge, we knit the sleeve stitches, raglan lines and back in knit stitches, make increases along the raglan lines, reach the turning point and knit it as 2 stitches together knitwise, knit all remaining stitches of the row in knit, edge stitch.
Row 10: edge stitch, 3 knit, we knit the sleeve stitches, raglan lines and back in purl stitches, reach the turning point and knit it as 2 stitches together purl, knit all remaining stitches of the row in purl, the last 3 stitches knit, edge stitch.

Note! The first and last 3 stitches (excluding the edge stitches) are always worked in knit stitches!!! This is how we form the placket.

We have completed the growth. Next we knit stockinette stitch, making increases along the raglan lines in every knit row until the length of the raglan line matches the values given in the table (see size chart). All data are conditional. A fitting is recommended. Measure the raglan line that lies on the front side together with the garter stitch.

When the raglan line reaches the length you need, you must divide all stitches into the front pieces, back and sleeves.
For this, in the knit row we knit all stitches of the front pieces up to the raglan line. We knit the first raglan stitch into the body. The second raglan stitch + sleeve stitches + the first raglan stitch of the back are slipped onto an auxiliary thread. Watch the video.

For the underarm openings, pick up 4 stitches (for size 6–12 months — 2 stitches) using twisted yarn overs.

Nabralv petli podreza, provyazyvaem vtoruyu reglanuyu petlyu (pervuyu myu snyali), petli spinki i pervuyu reglanuyu petlyu. Petli rukava + reglanные петли с обеих сторон также снимаем на вспомогательную нить. Nabiraем ещё 4 петли (для размера 6–12 мес. — 2 петли) подреза и провязываем вторую регланную петлю и петли полочки.

Провязываем изнаночный ряд, все петли изнаночные, накиды провязываем скрещёнными изнаночными петлями! Мы отделили рукава, и к ним вернёмся позднее.

Продолжаем вязать «тело» кардигана без прибавок! Провязываем 2–4 ряда лицевой гладью (в лицевом ряду все петли лиц., в изнаночном ряду все петли изн.) и переходим на платочную вязку.

Провязываем 5 рядов платочной вязки.
1 ряд (лицевой): все петли провязываем лиц.
2 ряд (изнаночный): все петли провязываем лиц.
и так далее…

5 ряд у нас получился лицевой.

Для того чтобы раппорт узора уместился в наше количество петель, выбираем за начало раппорта 1 (раппорт 16 петель) или 3 ряд (раппорт 20 петель)! Считаем общее количество петель в работе (не учитывая кромочные и петли планки).

Выбирая за начало ряда 3 ряд схемы, учитывайте, что кардиган будет менее объёмный!

In my case, 90 stitches on the needles. I choose row 1 of the chart as the start of the row.
16 stitches in the repeat × 6 repeats = 96 stitches.
Therefore, I need to evenly add 6 stitches.