Knitted sweater
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Knitted sweaterKlubokhttp://klubok.work/1/2/9302/Klubokhttps://klubok.work/css/image/top-logo-en.pngThe sweater is knitted from the top down and features a dropped shoulder with extended sleeves for a feminine and cozy look.
The work begins by shaping the flat back piece, while increasing the shoulder seams, then stitches are picked up from the right and left shoulders for the front portion of the back.
Then the front and back pieces are joined together and worked in the round for the body. Cast on stitches for the sleeves and work the circular seams, and then pick up stitches for the collar with a double-fold collar.
The sweater is worked on 5 mm needles (US 8) from a single strand of merino and a strand of silk mohair or from DK / Worsted yarn.
The collar, hem, and cuffs are worked in twisted rib on 3 mm needles (US 2.25).
SIZES:
XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
FINISHED GARMENT SIZES:
a. Finished bust circumference: 100 (112, 123.5, 135.5, 147) (155.5, 173, 189.5, 197.5) cm / 40 (44.75, 49.5, 54, 58.75) (62, 69.25, 75.75, 79) inches.
b. Length from underarm to hem: 37 (37, 37, 39, 39) (40.5, 40.5, 40.5, 42) cm / 14.5 (14.5, 14.5, 15.5, 15.5) (16, 16, 16, 16.75)".
c. Sleeve length from underarm: 47 cm / 18.5" — all sizes.
d. Upper arm circumference: 35.5 (40.5, 40.5, 40.5, 40.5) (40.5, 46, 46, 46) cm / 14 (16, 16, 16, 16) (16, 18, 18, 18) inches.
e. Cuff circumference: 22 (26.5, 26.5, 26.5, 26.5) (26.5, 31, 31, 31) cm / 9 (10.75, 10.75, 10.75, 10.75) (10.75, 12.5, 12.5, 12.5) inches.
1×2 RIBBED SEAM
Choose a size that is 15–20 cm / 6–8" larger than your bust circumference to create a relaxed and slightly oversized look, which will also allow the fabric to drape nicely.
Tip: if you are between sizes, choose the larger one.
Gauge in size S: Bust ≈ 87 cm / 34.25".
GAUGE:
17 sts × 24 rows = 10 cm in 1×2 rib on 5 mm needles (US 8) after blocking.
19 sts × 25 rows = 10 cm before blocking.
18 sts × 30 rows = 10 cm on 3 mm needles (US 2.5) in 1×1 twisted rib after blocking.
NEEDLES:
-
Circs 3 mm (US 2.5) 40–60 cm for the neckline and 80–100 cm for the hem (as well as DPNs for cuffs, or the magic loop).
-
Circs 5 mm (US 8) 40–60 cm for the sleeves and 80–100 cm for the body.
NOTES:
Removable stitch markers, a tapestry needle, a cable needle, or an extra DPN.
YARN:
400 (450, 500, 550, 600) (650, 700, 750) g Sandnes Garn Double Sunday (100% merino wool, 108 m / 50 g) color 1012 Whipped Cream together with 100 (125, 125, 125, 150) (150, 175, 200) g Knitting For Olive Soft Silk Mohair (70% mohair, 30% silk, 225 m / 25 g) color Cream.
Or 864 (972, 1080, 1188, 1296) (1404, 1512, 1620) m DK and lace yarn together (or one DK/Worsted).
The sweater is knit from one strand of merino and one strand of silk mohair.
You can knit without mohair, using only DK/Worsted, but be sure to make a gauge swatch to check gauge.
Back
Cast on 20 (23, 26, 29, 29) (29, 29, 29, 29, 29) stitches on 5 mm circular needles (US 8) 80–100 cm, using the Backwards Loop Cast-On method. Do not join in the round.
Place removable markers in the first and last stitch to mark where stitches will be picked up when working on the left and right fronts.
SET-UP ROWS:
Row 1 (RS): K3, p2, k1 — repeat to the last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 2 (WS): P3, k2, p1 — repeat to the last 2 stitches, p2.
Back Shoulder Shaping (increases every row):
Row 1 (RS): K2, M1Lp, k1, p2, k1 — repeat to the last 2 stitches, M1Rp, k2.
→ + 2 stitches
Row 2 (WS): P2, M1L, k1, p1, k2, p1 — repeat to the last 3 stitches, k1, M1R, p2.
→ + 2 stitches
Row 3 (RS): K2, M1L, p2, k1 — repeat to the last 4 stitches, p2, M1R, k2.
→ + 2 stitches
Row 4 (WS): P2, M1L, p1, k2, p1 — repeat to the last 2 stitches, M1R, p2.
→ + 2 stitches
Row 5 (RS): K2, M1Lp, p1, k1, p2, k1 — repeat to the last 3 stitches, p1, M1Rp, k2.
→ + 2 stitches
Row 6 (WS): P2, M1Lp, k2, p1, k2 — repeat to the last 2 stitches, M1Rp, p2.
→ + 2 stitches
After 6 rows, increased by 12 stitches, total 32 (35, 38, 41, 41) (41, 41, 41, 41) stitches.
NEXT:
Repeat rows 1–6 another 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) (7, 8, 9, 10) times.
ONLY S and L SIZES:
repeat rows 1–3 one more time, then work an additional row:
Row 4 (WS): P3, k2, p1 — repeat to the last 2 stitches, p2.
Total: 80 (89, 98, 107, 113) (125, 137, 149, 161) stitches.
SECTION 2
Continue working as follows (all sizes):
Row 1 (RS): K to end.
Row 2 (WS): K to end.
Row 3 (RS): K to end.
Row 4 (WS): K 1 (0, 1, 0, 0) (0, 0, 0, 0), k2tog, yo to the last stitch, k1.
Row 5 (RS): K to end.
Next, perform Row 6 in the size you chose:
-
Only XS and M: Row 6 (WS): K1, k2tog, k to the end.
-
Only L and 2XL: Row 6 (WS): K1, k2tog, k to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
-
Other sizes: Row 6 (WS): K to end.
Total → 79 (89, 97, 105, 113) (123, 137, 149, 161) stitches.
All sizes:
Row 7 (RS): K to end.
Row 8 (WS): P to end.
SECTION 3
Continue working according to Chart A in the size chosen until all rows 1–12 are completed.
SECTION 4
After completing Chart A, continue:
Row 1 (RS): K to end.
Row 2 (WS): K to end.
Row 3 (RS): K to end.
Row 4 (WS): k2tog, yo to the last stitch, k1.
Row 5 (RS): K to end.
Row 6 (WS): K to end.
The back piece is ready — cut the yarn and set aside the stitches while the front is formed.
LEFT FRONT
Cast on and knit 30 (33, 36, 39, 42) (48, 54, 60, 66) stitches from the marker of the left side seam to the outer edge
(when viewing the garment RS) with circular needles 5 mm (US 8).
Now the marker can be removed.
This is the slanted left edge where increases were previously made on the back yoke.
The direction of the cast-on stitches is from the neckline to the armhole.
Row 1 (WS): K to end.
Row 2 (RS): K to end.
Row 3 (WS): K 1 (2, 1, 2, 1) (1, 1, 1, 1, 1), k2tog, yo to the last row, k1.
Row 4 (RS): K to end.
Row 5 (WS): K to end.
Row 6 (RS): K to end.
SECTION 1 — Shaping the left armhole
Row 1 (WS): P2, k2, p1 to the last 4 stitches, k2, p2.
Row 2 (RS): K2, p2, k1 to the last 4 stitches, p2tog, k2.
→ −1 st.
Row 3 (WS): P2, k1, p1, k2, p1 to the last 4 stitches, k2, p2.
Row 4 (RS): K2, p2, k1 to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
→ −1 st.
Row 5 (WS): P2, p1, k2 to the last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 6 (RS): K2, p2, k1 to the last 5 stitches, p1, k2tog, k2.
→ −1 st.
Row 7 (WS): P3, k1, p1, k2 to the last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 8 (RS): K2, p2, k1 to the last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2.
→ −1 st.
Row 9 (WS): P3, p1, k2 to the last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 10 (RS): K2, p2, k1, p2 to the last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2.
→ −1 st.
Row 11 (WS): P3, k2, p1, k2 to the last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 12 (RS): K2, p2, k1, p2 to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
→ −1 st.
After decreases there remain 24 (27, 30, 33, 36) (42, 48, 54, 60) stitches.
Next 5 rows in a 1×2 rib:
Rows 1, 3, 5 (WS): P2, k2, p1, k2 to the last 2 stitches, p2.
Rows 2, 4 (RS): K2, p2, k1, p2 to the last 2 stitches, k2.
Forming the neckline opening (increases):
Row 1 (RS): K2, M1L, p2, k1, p2 to the last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 2 (WS): P2, k2, p1 to the last 5 stitches, k2, p3. (+1 stitch)
Row 3 (RS): K2, M1Lp, k1, p2 to the last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 4 (WS): P2, k2, p1 to the last 3 stitches, k1, p2. (+1 stitch)
Row 5 (RS): K2, M1Lp, p1, k1, p2 to the last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 6 (WS): P2, k2, p1, k2 to the last 2 stitches, p2. (+1 stitch)
→ total 27 (30, 33, 36, 39) (45, 51, 57, 63) stitches.
Repeat rows 1–6 one more time.
And total 30 (33, 36, 39, 42) (48, 54, 60, 66) stitches.
Cut the yarn and leave the stitches for forming the right edge of the armhole and neckline.
RIGHT FRONT (RIGHT FRONT)
Cast on with circular needles 5 mm (US 8) 30 (33, 36, 39, 42) (48, 54, 60, 66) stitches
from the right outer edge of the shoulder to the marker on the right side
(when looking at the garment with the right side facing — RS).
Now the marker can be removed.
This is the diagonal right edge where increases were just made on the back yoke.
The cast-on direction is from the armhole to the neckline.
Row 1 (WS): K to end.
Row 2 (RS): K to end.
Row 3 (WS): K 1 (2, 1, 2, 1) (1, 1, 1, 1, 1), k2tog, yo to the last row, k1.
Row 4 (RS): K to end.
Row 5 (WS): K to end.
Row 6 (RS): K to end.
SECTION 1 — Forming the Right Armhole
Row 1 (WS): P2, k2, p1 to the last 4 stitches, k2, p2.
Row 2 (RS): K2, p2tog, k1, p2 to the last 2 stitches, k2. (− 1 stitch)
Row 3 (WS): P2, k2, p1 to the last 3 stitches, k1, p2.
Row 4 (RS): K1, ssk, k1, p2 to the last 2 stitches, k2. (− 1 stitch)
Row 5 (WS): P2, k2, p1 to the last 5 stitches, k2, p3.
Row 6 (RS): K1, ssk, p2, k1 to the end, k1. (− 1 stitch)
Row 7 (WS): P2, k2, p1 to the last 4 stitches, k2, p2.
Row 8 (RS): K2, p2tog, k1, p2 to the last 2 stitches, k2. (− 1 stitch)
Row 9 (WS): P2, k2, p1 to the last 3 stitches, k1, p2.
Row 10 (RS): K1, ssk, k1, p2 to the last 2 stitches, k2. (− 1 stitch)
Row 11 (WS): P2, k2, p1 to the last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 12 (RS): K1, ssk, p2, k1 to the end, k1. (− 1 stitch)
After decreases, there remain
24 (27, 30, 33, 36) (42, 48, 54, 60) stitches for the right front piece.
5 Rows in 1×2 Rib:
Rows 1, 3, 5 (WS): P2, k2, p1, k2 to the last 2 stitches, p2.
Rows 2, 4 (RS): K2, p2, k1, p2 to the last 2 stitches, k2.
Forming the neckline opening (increases):
Row 1 (RS): K2, p2, k1, p2 to the last 2 stitches, M1R, k2. (+ 1 stitch)
Row 2 (WS): P3, k2, p1 to the last 4 stitches, k2, p2. (+ 1 stitch)
Row 3 (RS): K2, p2, k1 to the last 2 stitches, M1Rp, k2. (+ 1 stitch)
Row 4 (WS): P2, k1, p1, k2 to the last 2 stitches, p2. (+ 1 stitch)
Row 5 (RS): K2, p2, k1 to the last 3 stitches, p1, M1Rp, k2. (+ 1 stitch)
Row 6 (WS): P2, k2, p1, k2 to the last 2 stitches, p2. (+ 1 stitch)
→ Total 27 (30, 33, 36, 39) (45, 51, 57, 63) stitches.
Repeat rows 1–6 once more.
And total 30 (33, 36, 39, 42) (48, 54, 60, 66) stitches.
Do not cut the yarn yet — next comes the joining of the left and right front pieces.
Joining the left and right parts
Then join the left and right front pieces,
by picking up new stitches to form the center section of the neckline.
Continue work as follows:
Row 1 (RS):
K2, p2, k1 to the last 4 stitches of the right front piece, k2, p1,
CO 18 (21, 27, 27, 27) (27, 30, 30, 30) sts by Backwards Loop Cast-On,
slip the stitches of the left front piece onto the working needle and join:
p1, k1, p2 to the last 2 stitches, k2.
Turn the work.
→ Total 78 (87, 99, 105, 111) (123, 138, 150, 162) sts.
Row 2 (WS): P2, k2, p1, k2 to the last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 3 (RS): K2, p2, k1, p2 to the last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 4 (WS): P2, k2, p1, k2 to the last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 3–4 another 2 times.
SECTION 2
Next, work according to the sizes:
-
Only XS: Row 1 (RS): K1, M1L, k to end.
-
S and XL: Row 1 (RS): K1, M1L, k to the last stitch, M1R, k1.
-
M: Row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
-
L and 2XL: Row 1 (RS): Knit all stitches.
-
3XL, 4XL, 5XL: Row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, k to end.
→ Total for the front piece 79 (89, 97, 105, 113) (123, 137, 149, 161) sts.
Continuation (all sizes)
Row 2 (WS): K to end.
Row 3 (RS): K to end.
Row 4 (WS): k2tog, yo to the last stitch, k1.
Row 5 (RS): K to end.
Row 6 (WS): K to end.
Row 7 (RS): K to end.
Row 8 (WS): P to end.
SECTION 3
Continue working from Scheme A in the chosen size, completing all Rows 1–12.
SECTION 4
After Scheme A, continue:
Row 1 (RS): K to end.
Row 2 (WS): K to end.
Row 3 (RS): K to end.
Row 4 (WS): k2tog, yo to the last stitch, k1.
Row 5 (RS): K to end.
Row 6 (WS): K to end.
LOWER BODY
Now join the front and back pieces to form the body,
using 5 mm (US 8) circular needles, 80–100 cm long,
and begin knitting in the round:
K across 79 (89, 97, 105, 113) (123, 137, 149, 161) sts of the front piece,
CO 3 (3, 4, 5, 6) (4, 5, 6, 3) sts by Backwards Loop Cast-On,
PM (= side marker for the body),
CO 3 (3, 4, 5, 6) (5, 5, 6, 4) sts,
K across 79 (89, 97, 105, 113) (123, 137, 149, 161) sts of the back,
CO 3 (3, 4, 5, 6) (4, 5, 6, 3),
PM (= new BOR marker),
CO 3 (3, 4, 5, 6) (5, 5, 6, 4) sts.
→ Now on needles 170 (190, 210, 230, 250) (264, 294, 322, 336) sts.
Row 1:
K to the side marker for the body, SM,
K to the BOR marker BOR.
💡 Note: the BOR marker is located in the middle of the side of the body to ensure that the cable pattern (Scheme B) is aligned correctly.
In this row, the stitches picked up in the previous joining round have not yet been worked.
SECTION 5
Start working from Scheme B in the chosen size,
starting at the BOR
and knitting all body stitches,
until you complete all Rows 1–17.
SECTION 6
After Scheme B, proceed as follows:
Row 1: K to end.
Row 2: P to end.
Row 3: K to end.
Row 4: k2tog, yo to the end.
Row 5: K to end.
Row 6: P to end.
Row 7: K to end.
Row 8 (size-based decreases):
-
XS, M, XL, 4XL:
Knit to 2 stitches before the side body marker, k2tog, SM,
Knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog, SM. -
S, L, 3XL:
K1, ssk, Knit to 4 stitches before the side marker, k3tog, k1, SM,
K1, ssk, Knit to the last 4 stitches, k3tog, k1, SM. -
2XL, 5XL:
Knit all stitches without decreases.
→ Total 168 (184, 208, 224, 248) (264, 288, 320, 336) stitches.
SECTION 7
Next, work Chart C through all body stitches, until all rows 1–12 are finished.
SECTION 8
After Chart C:
Row 1: P to the end.
Row 2: K to the end.
Row 3: k2tog, yo to the end.
Row 4: K to the end.
Row 5: P to the end.
SECTION 9
Perform 20 (20, 20, 24, 24) (28, 28, 28, 32) rows in a 1×2 rib 1 × 2
or until the length of the ribbing measures
8.5 (8.5, 8.5, 8.5, 10, 10) cm
(11.5, 11.5, 11.5, 13.5) cm / 3.5 (3.5, 3.5, 4, 4) (4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 5.5)" in total.
(Or until the body length is 10 cm / 4" shorter than the desired overall length.)
SECTION 10
Continue knitting:
Row 1: K to the end.
Row 2: P to the end.
Row 3: K to the end.
Row 4: K 0 (1, 1, 0, 0) (0, 0, 0, 0), k2tog, yo to the end.
Row 5: K to the end.
Row 6: P to the end.
Row 7 (by size):
-
XS, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL: knit all stitches.
-
S and M: k2tog, knit to the end.
→ Total 168 (182, 206, 222, 246) (264, 288, 318, 336) stitches on the body.
SECTION 11
Switch to needles 3 mm (US 2.5) and knit 22 rows in the pattern
k1 tbl, p1 (twisted rib 1×1)
or until the length of the ribbing is 7.5 cm / 3".
Bind off stitches using the Italian method of circular bind-off.
SLEEVES
Cast on and knit 60 (69, 69, 69, 69) (69, 78, 78, 78) stitches
for each sleeve on circular needles 5 mm (US 8) 40–60 cm long
(or longer if you are using the «magic loop» technique),
starting from the underarm center.
Place a marker — this is the beginning of the round (BOR).
The sleeves are shaped by successive decreases.
SECTION 1
Rows 1–9: k1, p2 to the end.
Row 10 (decrease row):
K1, p2tog, k1, p2 to the last 3 stitches, k1, p2tog.
Row 11 (decrease row):
K1, k2tog, p2, k1, p2 to the last 2 stitches, ssk.
→ decreased 4 st.
Remaining 56 (65, 65, 65, 65) (65, 74, 74, 74) stitches.
Rows 12–19: K2, p2, k1 to the end of the round.
Row 20 (decrease row):
K2, p2, k1 to the last 3 stitches, p2,
perform CDD (central double decrease) over the next 3 stitches:
slip the BOR marker temporarily,
knit the first two stitches together, as if to knit,
then K1,
and pass the worked stitches over the just-worked knit stitch.
Return the BOR marker to place (between the first and second stitch on the right-hand needle).
→ decreased by 2 stitches.
Remaining 54 (63, 63, 63, 63) (63, 72, 72, 72) stitches.
Repeat rows 1–20 two more times,
then perform rows 1–9 one more time.
→ Total decreased by 12 stitches,
remaining 42 (51, 51, 51, 51) (51, 60, 60, 60) stitches.
SECTION 2
Row 1: Knit to end.
Row 2: Purl to end.
Row 3: Knit to end.
Row 4: K 0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) (1, 0, 0, 0), k2tog, yo to end.
Row 5: Knit to end.
Row 6: Purl to end.
Row 7 (by size):
-
XS: K1, k2tog, k to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
-
S, M, L, XL, 2XL: K1, k3tog, k to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
-
3XL, 4XL, 5XL: K1, k3tog, k to the last 4 stitches, k3tog, k1.
→ Total 40 (48, 48, 48, 48) (48, 56, 56, 56) stitches.
SECTION 3
Work chart C over all sleeve stitches until all rows 1–12 are complete.
SECTION 4
Row 1: Knit to end.
Row 2: Purl to end.
Row 3: Knit to end.
Row 4: k2tog, yo to end.
Row 5: Knit to end.
Row 6: Purl to end.
Row 7: Knit to end.
SECTION 5
Switch to needles 3 mm (US 2.5) — either double-pointed or circular (if you are using magic loop),
and knit 22 rounds in pattern k1 tbl, p1 (twisted rib 1×1),
or until the cuff length reaches 7.5 cm / 3".
Bind off stitches using the Italian method in the round.
NECKLINE
To shape the neckline, pick up stitches along the neckline edge
and knit 1×1 rib on circular needles 3 mm (US 2.5).
Start the pickup at one of the shoulder seams — between the front and back yoke.
Place a marker to mark the start of the round.
Cast on and knit 96 (100, 100, 104, 104) (104, 104, 108, 108) stitches
and work 27 rounds in pattern k1 tbl, p1
(twisted rib 1×1),
or until the cuff length reaches 9 cm / 3,5".
Collar assembly:
-
Sew the edges of the collar using a standard method.
-
Then fold the collar in half — toward the wrong side.
-
Carefully attach the inner edge by hand along the base,
ensuring the neckline does not become too narrow. -
CHART A (flat knitting)
Size XS according to Table A
RS rows: Work rows 1–9, then knit the 8 stitches inside the pattern 8 times, (9, 10, 11, 12) (–, 15, –, 18) times, then knit the remaining 8 stitches.
Work one row: Knit all stitches.Abbreviations:
-
RS: Knit
-
WS: Purl
-
Sl, k2tog, psso — Slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over k2tog
-
YO — Yarn over
-
Green frame — pattern repeat (repeat of the pattern)
Table A sizes S, M, L, XL, 3XL and 5XL
RS rows: Work rows 1–9, then work 8 stitches inside the pattern —
(9, 10, 11, 12) (–, 15, –, 18) times, then work the remaining 8 stitches.
Knit one row: Knit all stitches. -
Table A sizes S, M, L, XL, 3XL and 5XL
RS rows: Knit sts 1–9, then work 8 sts inside the pattern —
(9, 10, 11, 12) (–, 15, –, 18) times, then work the stitches.
Remaining 8 stitches.
Knit a row: Knit all stitches.
Size 2XL per Table A
RS rows: Work sts 1–9, then work 8 sts inside the pattern 13 times, then work the remaining 9 sts.
Knit a row: Knit all stitches.
Abbreviations:
RS: Knit
WS: Purl
Slip, slip, knit
Knit 2 together
Slip 1, knit 2 together, pull slipped stitch over k2tog
Yarn over
pattern repeat
Table A size 4XL
RS rows: Work sts 1–11, then work 8 sts inside the pattern 16 times, then work the remaining 10 sts.
Knit a row: Knit all stitches.
Abbreviations:
RS: Knit
WS: Purl
Slip, slip, knit
Knit 2 together
Slip 1, knit 2 together, pull slipped stitch over k2tog
Yarn over
pattern repeat
CHART B (worked in the round)
CHART B size XS
Size S
CHART C (worked in the round)
Attention!
In the 5th row work as follows to make the pattern repeat seamless:
k2tog (first 2 stitches), yo, then follow the chart to the last stitch before the marker BOR
(don't forget to make the last yo before the marker),
k1 tbl, slip the marker BOR, transfer the next stitch from the left needle to the right (k2tog, worked at the start of the row),
pull the k1tbl over the k2tog on the right needle,
move this new stitch back to the left needle,
place the marker BOR back on the right needle.
Knit the next row following the chart.
ABBREVIATIONS
2/3 LC = 2/3 left-cross cable.
Cross the next 2 stitches onto the DP needle and hold in front of the work, knit 3, then knit 2 from the DP needle.
2/3 RC = 2/3 right-cross cable.
Cross the next 3 stitches onto the DP needle and knit through the back loops, knit 2, then knit 3 from the DP needle.
BO = bind off
CDD = centered double decrease.
Work over the next 3 stitches. Knit the first two stitches together as for knitting
(the stitches will become twisted), then knit 1, with the left needle slip the stitches you have worked over the k1 you just knitted,
which you just knitted (2 stitches decreased).
BOR = beginning of round
CO = cast off
Dec = decrease
DPN = double-pointed needle
K = knit
K2tog = knit 2 stitches together through the front loops (1 stitch decreased).
K3tog = knit 3 stitches together through the front loops (2 stitches decreased).
M1L = make 1 left (increase on the left), knit the yarn between the two stitches,
inserting the left needle from front to back, and knit the twisted stitch (through the back loop) (increase of 1 stitch).
M1R = make 1 right (increase to the right), knit the yarn between two stitches,
inserting the left needle from the back to the front, and knit a twisted stitch through the front loop (increase of 1 stitch).
P = purl
P2tog = purl 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased).
PM = place marker
psso = pass the slipped stitch over the worked stitch
RS = right side
sl = slip the stitch
sm = move marker
ssk = slip one stitch knitwise, slip the next stitch knitwise,
insert the left needle under the fronts of these two slipped stitches and knit them together (1 stitch decreased).
st(s) = stitch(es)
tbl = through the back loop
WS = wrong side
yo = yarn over






















