Knitted sweater

Sizes: 42 (44) 46 (48)

Materials:

Yarn: BBB Soft Dream (200 m per 25 g)

Yardage for sizes 42-44 (garment length 58 cm): 6 skeins (150 g)

Yardage for size 46/48 (garment length 58 cm): 6-7 skeins (150-175 g).

Attention! The amount of yarn required depends on the garment length and the yarn yardage.

Alternative: Ecafil Sielo (212 m, 25 g), Drops Kid Silk (210 m, 25 g), Lana Gatto

Silk Mohair (210 m, 25 g), bobbin mohair yarn on silk 100 g, 800 m in 2 strands;

BBB Soft Dream Lace (25 g, 100 m) in 1 strand (usage 7-8 skeins).

Circular needles 80 /100/120 cm – 4 and 5 mm.

Circular needles 40 cm – 5 mm, for ease of knitting the sleeves.

Stitch markers (15 pcs), 2 auxiliary threads 40 cm long and a needle.

Gauge: 10 cm x 10 cm = 16 stitches x 26 rows stockinette on 5 mm needles using two strands.

Attention! Gauge must match the specified one, so before starting work you must definitely knit and wash a swatch. Then count how many stitches fit into 10 cm. If there are more than 16 stitches, switch to thicker needles; if fewer than 16 stitches, switch to thinner needles.

Abbreviations: M - marker, N – yarn over.

Stitch patterns:

- 1x1 rib in the round: Row 1: *1 knit, 1 purl*, repeat from * to *, repeat from Row 1;

- stockinette stitch in flat rows: Row 1 – all stitches knit, Row 2 – all stitches purl, repeat from Row 1;

- stockinette stitch in the round: all stitches knit in all rounds;

- “Right Cable” (4 stitches): Rows 1-4 – all stitches knit, Row 5: slip the first stitch to an auxiliary needle in front of the work, knit the next 3 stitches, move the first stitch back onto the left needle and knit it. Repeat from Row 1;

- “Left Cable” (4 stitches): Rows 1-4 – all stitches knit, Row 5: slip 3 stitches to an auxiliary needle behind the work, knit the next stitch, move the 3 stitches back to the left needle and knit them. Repeat from Row 1;

- Japanese pattern:

empty cell – knit stitches.

Knit 2 pattern repeats across the width.

In the 13th row, four- and five-yarn-overs; in the 21st row, the 2nd and 3rd yarn-overs; in the 27th row, the 2nd and 3rd yarn-overs; in the 33rd row, the 2nd and 3rd yarn-overs knit according to Fig. 1 (see below). Also, yarn-overs that follow one another (between repeats) should be knitted according to Fig. 1.

In all other cases, knit yarn-overs.

Attention!

When knitting in the round, read the pattern from right to left for all rounds.

When knitting flat, odd rounds: right to left, even rounds: left to right

slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over

yarn over

i2 stitches knit together

 3 stitches knit together

Knitting instructions.

Using circular needles 4 mm, cast on 84 stitches, join in the round, mark the beginning of the round with a marker and knit 11 rounds in the pattern “Ribbing 1x1 in the round.”

In the last round, switch to 5 mm needles, and from the start of the marker place the markers for knitting as follows: M (start of knitting), 11 stitches (1/2 back), M, 2 stitches, M, 12 stitches (sleeve), M, 2 stitches, M, 30 stitches (front), M, 2 stitches, M, 12 stitches (sleeve), M, 2 stitches, M, 11 stitches (1/2 back).

Thus, the knitting divides into 4 parts: 2 sleeves, back, and front.

How to make a universal yarn over before and after the raglan lines (also how to make yarn overs that occur one after another when knitting the Japanese pattern, see above):

In the knit row, knit the stitches crossed (through the back loop), in the purl row, purl through the front loop.

The raglan line stitches consist of two stitches and will be worked in stockinette. The 12 stitches of the sleeves will be divided into 6 parts: 2 stitches + 2 stitches + 2 stitches + 2 stitches + 2 stitches + 2 stitches.

Knit in stockinette with turning rows, starting from the mark of the beginning of knitting:

Row 1 – M (start of knitting), 11 knit, N, M, 2 knit (raglan line), M, N, 2 knit (1st part of the sleeve), turn, 3 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 12 purl, M (start), 11 purl, N, M, 2 purl, M, N, 2 purl (1st part of the sleeve), turn, 3 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 12 knit.

Row 2 – M (start of knitting), 12 knit, N, M, 2 knit, M, N, 5 knit, turn, 6 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 13 purl, M (start), 12 purl, N, M, 2 purl, M, N, 5 purl, turn, 6 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 13 knit.

Row 3 – M (start of knitting), 13 knit, N, M, 2 knit, M, N, 8 knit, turn, 9 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 14 purl, M (start), 13 purl, N, M, 2 purl, M, N, 8 purl, turn, 9 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 14 knit.

Row 4 – M (start of knitting), 14 knit, N, M, 2 knit, M, N, 11 knit, turn, 12 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 15 purl, M (start), 14 purl, N, M, 2 purl, M, N, 11 purl, turn, 12 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 15 knit.

Row 5 – M (start of knitting), 15 knit, N, M, 2 knit, M, N, 14 knit, turn, 15 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 16 purl, M (start), 15 purl, N, M, 2 purl, M, N, 14 purl, turn, 15 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 16 knit.

Row 6 – M (start of knitting), 16 knit, N, M, 2 knit, M, N, 17 knit, N, M, 2 knit, M, N, 2 knit (stitches at the front), turn knitting, 3 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 19 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 17 purl, M (start), 16 purl, N, M, 2 purl, M, N, 17 purl, N, M, 2 purl, M, N, 2 purl (stitches at the front), turn knitting, 3 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 19 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 17 knit.

Row 7 – M (start of knitting), 17 knit, N, M, 2 knit, M, N, 19 knit N, M, 2 knit, M, N, 5 knit (stitches at the front), turn knitting, 6 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 21 purl, M, 2 purl, M, 18 purl, M (start of knitting), 17 purl, N, M, 2 purl, M, N, 19 purl, N, M, 2 purl, M, N, 5 purl (stitches at the front), turn knitting, 6 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 21 knit, M, 2 knit, M, 18 knit.

At this stage, the sleeves should have 21 stitches each, the back 36 stitches, and the front 34 stitches.

The yoke is finished.

First circular round:

M (start of knitting), 18 knit, N, M, 2 knit, M, N, 21 knit, N, M, 2 knit, M.

Next, distribute the patterns on the front part of the garment.

Total on the front part are 34 stitches + 2 future increases = 36 stitches.

“Japanese pattern” - width 36 stitches (2 repeats).

Before and after the Japanese pattern, 2 purl stitches will be worked.

Before and after the two purl stitches, the patterns “Right Cable” and “Left Cable” will be worked (these patterns will be introduced during knitting). For convenience, divide the patterns with markers.

Add 2 stitches in the first row so that from the second row you can begin knitting the “Japanese pattern.”

Continue knitting: after the marker (raglan line) – N,12 knit,1 knit from a wrap (yarn over), 10 knit, 1 knit from a wrap (yarn over), 12 knit, N, M, 2 knit, M, N, 21 knit, N, M, 2 knit, M, N, 18 knit.

How to knit an increase from a wrap: wrap a loop onto the left needle from the wrap and knit it through the back loop.

2nd circular row:

M (marker for beginning of knitting), 19 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 23 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 1 purl, M, 1st row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 1 purl, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 23 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 19 knit stitches.

3rd circular row:

M (marker for beginning of knitting), 19 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 23 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 1 purl, M, 2nd row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 1 purl, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 23 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 19 knit stitches.

4th circular row:

M (marker for beginning of knitting), 20 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 25 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 2 purl, M, 3rd row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 2 purl, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 25 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 20 knit stitches.

5th circular row:

M (marker for beginning of knitting), 20 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 25 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 2 purl, M, 4th row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 2 purl, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 25 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 20 knit stitches.

6th circular row:

M (marker for beginning of knitting), 21 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 27 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 1 knit, 2 purl, M, 5th row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 2 purl, 1 knit, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 27 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 21 knit stitches.

7th circular row:

M (marker for beginning of knitting), 21 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 27 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 1 knit, 2 purl, M, 6th row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 2 purl, 1 knit, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 27 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 21 knit stitches.

8th circular row:

M (marker for beginning of knitting), 22 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 29 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, 2 purl, M, 7th row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 2 purl, 2 knit, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 29 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 22 knit stitches.

9th circular row:

M (marker for beginning of knitting), 22 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 29 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 2 knit stitches, 2 purl, M, 8th row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 2 purl, 2 knit, yo, M, 2 purl, 2 knit, yo, 29 knit, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 22 knit stitches.

10th circular row: M (marker for beginning of knitting), 23 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 31 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 3 knit stitches, 2 purl, M, 9th row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 2 purl, 3 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 31 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 23 knit stitches.

11th circular row: M (marker for beginning of knitting), 23 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 31 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 3 knit stitches, 2 purl, M, 10th row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 2 purl, 3 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 31 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 23 knit stitches.

12th circular row: M (marker for beginning of knitting), 24 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 33 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 4 knit, 2 purl, M, 11th row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 2 purl, 4 knit, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 33 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 24 knit stitches.

13th circular row: M (marker for beginning of knitting), 24 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 33 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 4 knit, 2 purl, M, 12th row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 2 purl, 4 knit, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 33 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 24 knit stitches.

14th circular row: M (marker for beginning of knitting), 25 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 35 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 5 knit, 2 purl, M, 13th row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 2 purl, 5 knit, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 35 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 25 knit stitches.

15th circular row: M (marker for beginning of knitting), 25 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 35 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 5 knit, 2 purl, M, 14th row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 2 purl, 5 knit, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 35 knit stitches, yo, M, 2 knit stitches, yo, 25 knit stitches.

16th circular row: M (marker for beginning of knitting), 26 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 37 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, 1st row of the pattern “Right Cable” (4 stitches), 2 purl, M, 15th row of the Japanese pattern (2 repeats=36 stitches), M, 2 purl, 1st row of the pattern “Left Cable” (4 stitches), 2 knit, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 37 knit stitches, M, 2 knit stitches, M, 26 knit stitches.

17th and all odd circular rows to be worked according to the patterns, making a yarn over before and after the marker for the raglan lines.

18th and all even rows to be worked according to the patterns, knitting the yarn overs that were knitted before and after the raglan stitches with a crossed knit stitch.

Knit the Japanese pattern strictly according to the chart, not forgetting the information above.

Knit in this way until the sleeves have 53 (55) 57 (61) stitches.

Next, divide the knitting into two sleeves, the back, and the front.

To do this, starting from the marker after the start of knitting, knit the back stitches up to the raglan marker, knit the raglan stitches and move the sleeve stitches onto an auxiliary thread. Then make 3 increases (underarm, see fig. 1), knit 2 raglan stitches and the stitches of the front part of the garment, including the stitches of the next raglan line.

Also transfer the stitches of the second sleeve onto the auxiliary thread, make 3 increases (underarm), knit the raglan line stitches, knit the back stitches up to the marker for the start of knitting.

Knit in the round following the patterns to the desired length. For a jumper length of 58 cm, the Japanese pattern should be repeated 3 times in height. To knit a longer version, the Japanese pattern should be repeated 4 times in height.

After reaching the desired length, switch to 4 mm needles and knit in the pattern “1x1 Rib” for 10 rounds. Bind off the stitches in a method convenient for you.

Knitting the sleeves.

Transfer 53 (55) 57 (61) stitches of the sleeve from the auxiliary thread onto circular needles, while picking up stitches (2 stitches + 3 increases (underarm) + 2 stitches). In total, each sleeve should have 60 (62) 64 (68) stitches.

It is necessary to mark the start of knitting (in the underarm area) with a marker, dividing the knitting into 2 equal parts.

For size 42:

Knit in the round following the pattern, making decreases at rounds 2, 3, 4, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 85, 90.

Knit to the 100th round (or to the desired sleeve length).

There should be 34 stitches remaining on each sleeve.

Next, switch to 4 mm needles and knit in the pattern “1x1 Rib” for 14 rounds.

For size 44:

Knit in the round following the pattern, making decreases at rounds 2, 3, 4, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90.

Knit to the 100th round (or to the desired sleeve length).

There should remain 38 stitches on each sleeve.

Next, switch to 4 mm needles and knit in the pattern “1x1 Rib” for 14 rounds.

For size 46:

Knit in the round following the pattern, making decreases at rounds 2, 3, 4, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, rounds.

Knit to the 100th round (or to the desired sleeve length).

There should remain 44 stitches on each sleeve.

Next, switch to 4 mm needles and knit in the pattern “1x1 Rib” for 14 rounds, in the 1st round making decreases 4 times (2 stitches together purlwise). In total, the sleeves should have 40 stitches.

For size 48:

Knit in the round following the pattern, making decreases at rounds 2, 3, 4, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80 rounds.

Knit to the 100th round (or to the desired sleeve length).

There should remain 46 stitches on each sleeve.

Next, switch to 4 mm needles and knit in the pattern “1x1 Rib” for 14 rounds, making 6 decreases in the 1st round (2 stitches together purlwise). Thus, there should be 40 stitches on each sleeve.

There should remain 38 stitches on each sleeve.

Next, switch to 4 mm needles and knit in the pattern “1x1 Rib” for 14 rounds.

For size 46:

Knit in the round following the pattern, making decreases at rounds 2, 3, 4, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, rounds.

Knit to the 100th round (or to the desired sleeve length).

There should remain 44 stitches on each sleeve.

Next switch to 4 mm needles and knit in the «1x1 Rib» pattern for 14 rounds, making 4 decreases in the 1st row (purl two together). Thus, 40 stitches on each sleeve.

For size 48:

Knit in the round following the pattern, making decreases in rounds 2, 3, 4, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80.

Knit until the 100th round (or knit the desired sleeve length).

There should remain 46 stitches on each sleeve.

Next, switch to 4 mm needles and knit in the «1x1 Rib» pattern for 14 rounds, with 6 decreases in the 1st row (purl two together). Thus, 40 stitches on each sleeve.

Decreases in knitting the sleeves: at the beginning of the round (after the marker = start of knitting) you should knit two stitches together: the 2nd and 3rd stitches from the start of knitting and the 2nd and 3rd stitches from the end at the end of the round (before the marker).

The second sleeve is knitted in the same way.

The sweater is ready! You need to weave in all yarn ends and wash in warm water with detergent. Dry flat.