Cardigan knitted with knitting needles

Added: 26.10.2025 в 13:29 Views: 517

SIZES:

S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):

Knit every row.
1 height unit = 2 rows of knit.

PATTERN:

See charts A.1 – A.3.
The charts show all pattern rows visible from the right side.

TIP FOR EVENLY SPACED INCREASES / DECREASES:

To distribute increases or decreases evenly, count the number of stitches to be changed (for example, 17), and divide by the number of sections where increases/decreases will occur (for example, 5).
17 ÷ 5 = 3.4
In this case, make a yarn over after every 3rd and 4th stitches alternately.
In the next row, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
If you need to decrease — knit together after every 2nd and 3rd or 3rd and 4th stitches alternately.

INCREASE #1:

All increases are made in knit rows.
Increase by 1 stitch = make 1 yarn over.
In the next (purl) row, purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.

INCREASE #2 (RS):

BEFORE THE MARKER (stitch tilts to the right):
With the left needle, pick up the thread between the two stitches from the previous row, insert the needle from back to front and knit through the front loop.

AFTER THE MARKER (stitch tilts to the left):
With the left needle, pick up the thread between the two stitches from the previous row, insert the needle from front to back and knit through the back loop.

BUTTONHOLE LOOPS:

Decreases for buttonholes are made on the right front band (the side where the buttons will be).

On the knit row, when 3 stitches remain before the end:
→ 1 yarn over, 2 stitches knitwise, 1 knit.

In the next (purl) row, purl the yarn over — a hole will appear.

Make the first buttonhole when the ribbing at the neckline reaches about 3 cm.
Then make another 4–5 holes, spacing them at 9½–10–8–8½–9–9 cm apart.

TIP WHEN CASTING OFF STITCHES:

To avoid a tight edge, you can use larger needles. If the edge is still too tight — make a yarn over after every 3rd or 6th stitch when binding off, then bind off the yarn overs as normal stitches.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE GARMENT:

The jacket is knitted from the top down.

First, the neckline band (neckline band) is worked back and forth from the center front.
Then the shoulders (saddle shoulders) are knitted separately.
After that all stitches are transferred to one circular needle, and stitches are picked up along the shoulders.
A yoke is worked in rows back and forth, with increases for the sleeves and the top.
After the yoke, the stitches are divided into the body and sleeves.
The body is knitted in rows back and forth from top to bottom.
Sleeves — in the round from top to bottom.
NECK EDGE:

Cast on 96-102-106-106-110-122 stitches (including 5 stitches of the placket on each side of the front)
on circular needles 3 mm (US 2.5), with the yarn held in two strands of yarn DROPS Kid-Silk.

Knit 1 row in purl (purl side).

Next, from the right side, knit as follows:
- 5 stitches of the placket garter stitch (see description above),
- pattern A.1 on the following 12-15-15-15-15-18 sts,
- then knit the first 2 stitches of pattern A.1,
- place a marker (between the front piece and the left shoulder),
- knit pattern A.2 on the following 13-13-15-15-17-17 sts,
- place a marker (between the left shoulder and the back),
- pattern A.1 on the following 30-30-30-30-30-36 sts,
- knit the first 2 stitches of pattern A.1,
- place a marker (between the back and the right shoulder),
- pattern A.2 on the following 13-13-15-15-17-17 sts,
- place a marker (between the right shoulder and the right front piece),
- pattern A.1 on the following 12-15-15-15-15-18 sts,
- knit the first 2 stitches of pattern A.1,
- 5 sts garter-stitch border.
Continue knitting back and forth in the same order.

When the ribbing at the neckline reaches 3 cm,
cut the yarn.

Now you need to divide the garment into the front pieces, the back, and shoulders:
- the first and last 19-22-22-22-22-25 sts are placed on pins (= front pieces),
- the next 13-13-15-15-17-17 sts on both sides are slipped off (= shoulders),
- the middle 32-32-32-32-32-38 sts are slipped onto a pin (= back).
Then the shoulders are worked separately.

SADDLE SHOULDERS: (SADDLE SHOULDERS):

= 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches.

Knit back and forth on circular needles 3 mm (US 2.5) as follows:

1️⃣ At the beginning of the row, cast on 1 stitch (= edge),
2️⃣ knit all 13-13-15-15-17-17 sts in pattern,
3️⃣ while doing this, increase each purl stitch to 2 purl stitches (see Tip for even increases)
→ results in +6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches,
4️⃣ at the end of the row cast on another 1 stitch (= edge).

Total on the needles = 21-21-24-24-27-27 sts

Continue knitting in pattern (1x1 rib, 2 purl)
back and forth until the shoulder length reaches
7-7-7-8-8-8 cm from the place where the purl stitches were increased.
The last row is purl.

Slip the stitches onto a pin.

Knit the second shoulder exactly the same.
After both shoulders are ready, all pieces are joined on one needle.

We use needles size 5 mm (US 8).
During joining, also pick up stitches along the edges of the saddle shoulders.

JOINING PIECES:

From the right side, knit as follows:
- 5 sts garter-stitch border,
- knit the following 14-17-17-17-17-20 sts, while evenly increasing 1-5-5-8-8-12 sts (see Tip for even increases)
  → total 15-22-22-25-25-32 sts.
- pick up 16-16-16-20-20-20 sts along the edge of the saddle shoulder,
- further:
  1 knit, (1 knit through front and back, 1 yarn over),
  repeat from - 17-17-21-21-24-24 times,
  finish with 1 knit through front and back, 1 knit
  → on the shoulder the result is 58-58-67-67-76-76 sts.
- pick up 16-16-16-20-20-20 sts along the other edge of the same shoulder,
- knit the back stitches (32-32-32-32-32-38 sts) and evenly increase 9-9-9-15-15-9 sts
  → total 41-41-41-47-47-47 sts
- then repeat the same symmetrically for the second shoulder and the second front piece,
  finishing with a 5-stitch garter-border.
Don't forget to make buttonholes on the right garter-border placket (see instruction above).

After joining, on the needle there should be:
261-275-293-321-339-353 sts.

Knit 1 purl row (purl side),
while doing this the placket stitches are worked in garter stitch, as before.

DISTRIBUTION OF STITCHES ON THE YOKE:

Place a marker after the placket at the start of the row at the center front —
from here the height of the yoke is measured.

Continue knitting the pattern and place 4 markers as follows:

1️⃣ 1st marker (right front piece):
5 sts garter stitch,
A.3 on the following 28-35-35-42-42-49 sts,
first 3 sts of pattern A.3,
place a marker.

2️⃣ 2nd marker (right sleeve):
then 56-56-65-65-74-74 sts in stockinette stitch,
place a marker.

3️⃣ 3rd marker (back):
A.3 on the following 70-70-70-84-84-84 sts,
first 3 sts of A.3,
place a marker.

4️⃣ 4th marker (left sleeve):
then 56-56-65-65-74-74 sts in stockinette stitch,
place a marker.

Remaining 28-35-35-42-42-49 sts + 5 sts garter stitch —
this is the left front piece.

Now you have 4 markers:
1 and 3 — separate the front/back from the sleeves;
2 and 4 — separate the sleeves from the body.

Continue knitting back and forth following the pattern,
moving the markers upward as you go.

INCREASES ON THE YOKE:

There are 2 types of increases:
- for the sleeves,
- for the body (front + back).
🧵 INCREASES FOR SLEEVES:

The sleeves are knitted in stockinette stitch.

In every right-side row increase 4 stitches:
- after the 1st and 3rd marker,
- before the 2nd and 4th marker.
Use Increase Tip No. 2 (crossed stitches).

Repeat these increases in every second right-side row
total 7-10-7-9-6-8 times.

🧶 INCREASES FOR THE BODY (FRONT + BACK):

Perform these increases simultaneously with the sleeve increases.

In each right-side row increase 4 stitches:
- before the 1st and 3rd marker,
- after the 2nd and 4th marker.
Use Increase Tip No. 2.

Repeat these increases in every second right-side row
total 0-7-7-7-14-21 times.

After completing all increases, the number of stitches on the needle will be:
289-343-349-385-419-469 sts

Continue knitting until the length from the marker (at the neckline) is
19-21-23-25-27-29 cm.

✅ At this stage the yoke is finished.
Then the stitches are divided into body and sleeves, and knitting begins downward.
knit A.3 along the following section (31-45-45-52-59-73 sts),
but skip yarn-overs in each repeat of A.3 (that is, decrease 1 stitch in every pattern repeat),
→ in total decrease 4-6-6-7-8-10 sts
knit in stockinette stitch 14-6-12-10-10-10 sts for the underarm shaping,
simultaneously increase evenly 4-3-6-5-5-5 sts,
knit A.3 on the central 73-87-87-101-115-129 sts (back),
also skipping yarn-overs,
→ decrease 10-12-12-14-16-18 sts,
knit in stockinette stitch 14-6-12-10-10-10 sts for the underarm shaping,
increase evenly 4-3-6-5-5-5 sts,
again A.3 (31-45-45-52-59-73 sts), skipping yarn-overs,
→ decrease 4-6-6-7-8-10 sts,
finish with 5 sts garter stitch placket.

After all decreases on the needles there will remain:
163-181-199-217-241-277 sts

BOTTOM RIBBING

Switch to needles 3 mm (US 2.5).

Knit the ribbing (as for the neckline) as follows:

5 sts placket garter stitch,
then knit the last 2 stitches of pattern A.1,
then repeat A.1 across the fabric,
finish: 1 stitch in pattern A.1, 5 stitches garter stitch for the placket.

Make sure that the English ribbing A.1 matches the knit stitches of pattern A.3.

Continue the ribbing for 3 cm,
then bind off stitches:
over knit stitches — knit, over purl stitches — purl
(see Tip for binding off stitches).

Finished length of the jacket from shoulder to hem:
46–48–50–52–54–56 cm.

RUMS

Transfer the stitches of one sleeve from the provisional yarn back
to short circular or double-pointed needles No. 5 mm (US 8).

Additionally pick up 1 stitch from each of 6-6-8-10-10-10 sts underarm shaping.
On needles you will have:
70-84-85-95-98-102 sts

Sleeve construction:

Knit in the round in stockinette.

When the length of the sleeve from the underarm reaches 22-20-18-16-15-12 cm,
try on the jacket — the length may vary slightly depending on the desired fit.

(Before final measurements there remains about 9 cm of ribbing.)

In the last row before the ribbing evenly decrease 28-42-40-47-47-51 sts
→ remaining 42-42-45-48-51-51 sts

SLEEVE BOTTOM RIBBING

Switch to needles №3 mm (US 2.5).
Knit pattern A.1 in the round to a length of 9 cm.

Bind off stitches according to the pattern
(knit stitches — knit, purl stitches — purl,
see Tip for binding off stitches).

Finished sleeve length from underarm:
31–29–27–25–24–21 cm.

Second sleeve knitting is the same.

ASSEMBLY

1️⃣ Sew in the sleeves:
carefully join them to the armholes,
stitching the edge stitches inside —
the edge of the underarm shaping should transition smoothly into the underarm seam.

2️⃣ Sew on the buttons:
on the left placket (opposite the buttonholes).

3️⃣ Secure the ends of the threads,
gently press the jacket through a damp cloth,
not stretching the English ribbing.

FINISHED GARMENT
- The collar, cuffs and bottom of the garment are finished with English ribbing (A.1).
- The front and back are decorated with pattern A.3.
- The shoulders are saddle-shoulder — providing a beautiful fit along the shoulder line.
- The model is knitted from top to bottom, with no complex seams.
Jacket length: 46–56 cm (depends on size).
Yarn: DROPS Kid-Silk in 2 strands.
Gauge: as indicated in chart A.3 (approximately 17–18 sts per 10 cm stockinette).

🌸 Jacket is ready!
After a light steaming it will have a soft shape,
and the English ribbing on the plackets and cuffs will emphasize a neat silhouette

	knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side.
	purl on the right side, knit on the wrong side.
	Insert the right needle into the stitch from the previous row, knit 1 and slip the stitch off the left needle (= English rib).
	Between two stitches, make 1 yarn over. On the next row, purl the yarn over to form a hole.
	= knit 2 together
	= Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the stitch worked.